drdannn Posted November 13, 2010 Share #1 Posted November 13, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Would appreciate help: 1. How do I tell how many shutter actuations on my camera? 1. What is the benefit of a lens being "coded", i.e. having 6 bit coding vs. previous versions of lenses without coding? Thanks, much appreciated. Dan F.:) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 13, 2010 Posted November 13, 2010 Hi drdannn, Take a look here M8 Question. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted November 13, 2010 Share #2 Posted November 13, 2010 I think you'll have to search the forum for the coding question - there are hundreds of threads on the subject. Coding is needed for all lenses shorter than 35 mm when using IR cut filters. As there are on the actuation question: just take an image and read out the hexadecimal number in EXIF. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearlight Posted November 13, 2010 Share #3 Posted November 13, 2010 Are you sure that coding is required for lenses shorter than 28mm? I don't have any problems with a CV 28mm when using the IR/UV filter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted November 14, 2010 Share #4 Posted November 14, 2010 Well, if you don't mind a colour shift in the corners... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesL Posted November 14, 2010 Share #5 Posted November 14, 2010 ...on the actuation question: just take an image and read out the hexadecimal number in EXIF. The free program photome displays a long list of EXIF data items. I presume that the value of "unique image ID" is the count of shutter clicks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted November 14, 2010 Share #6 Posted November 14, 2010 The free program photome displays a long list of EXIF data items. I presume that the value of "unique image ID" is the count of shutter clicks. Yes, that's the value you need. As this is a hexadecimal (Base 16) number, you just need to convert that to decimal (Base 10). The 'Calculator' application on both Mac and Windows operating systems will enable you to do this, or there are numerous other methods that have been detailed in other threads on this subject. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearlight Posted November 14, 2010 Share #7 Posted November 14, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well, if you don't mind a colour shift in the corners... I don't get a colour shift. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted November 14, 2010 Share #8 Posted November 14, 2010 I don't get a colour shift. Good for you, rl! All other users of uncoded 28's that I'm aware of do (assuming you're using the UV/IR-Cut filter, of course). Can you tell us more about how you avoid the color shift? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted November 15, 2010 Share #9 Posted November 15, 2010 Well.. when my Elmarit 28 was uncoded I did notice color shift, but I remember (made some specific tests) that it became less noticeable when the lens was significantly stopped down (11, for example): anyway, coding helps, no doubt... I have the feel that lens correction firmware also acts on vignetting (which in my Elmarit of 1982 is noticeable even on the cropped M8 frame). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearlight Posted November 16, 2010 Share #10 Posted November 16, 2010 Good for you, rl! All other users of uncoded 28's that I'm aware of do (assuming you're using the UV/IR-Cut filter, of course). Can you tell us more about how you avoid the color shift? I photograph in monochrome. Seriously, it may be that I invariably used the CV 28 stopped down to the middle apertures. I often photograph without the filter, though, and use software fixes (I find the filter increases the risk of flare). (BTW, what does rl mean?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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