M8 consistent over exposure

[ryan1938]

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Check out the attached image. Over exposure like that when using a-priority seems to be the norm on my M8 no matter the lens... It's fixed easily enough in pp, but I was hoping for some advice. Is this something I'm doing?

 

This is using aperture priority and auto white balance. I do use a uv/ir cut filter (on some lenses I use the Leica filter, on others the B+W).

 

Suggestions?

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[acanalda]

HI,

 

I normally set my M8 camera to underexpose - 1/3 except when I use it under low light conditions.

 

Regards,

 

Arturo

[scsambrook]

I leave mine set on minus 1/3 as well, but Ryan's picture looks much more overexposed than a third of a stop. Is there the same problem with manual readings?

 

Exposure with my M8 seems 'generous' - almost on the same principle that we were told to use for colour negative film years ago. With that, the idea was to expose for the shadows, unlike slide film where it was the highlights that needed attention. But even with the 'generous' exposure I don't get the bleaching-out seen in this shot.

[jaapv]

White balance has nothing to do with it. The most obvious thing to do is to check exposure compensation. If not, and this is consistent (it is 2 stops over btw) then the calibration of the exposure meter is grossly wrong and the camera should be sent in.

[acanalda]

Probably this is a stupid question but as I can see in your photo:

 

1.- this is a very sunny day

2.- Due the DOF with only a few flowers in focus probably you have used 1.4 - 2.0 aperture settings.

 

Have you checked that 1/8000 is enough to get an accurate exposure?

Take a look to the speed and iso values in the EXIF data.

 

Regards

 

Arturo

[ryan1938]

Probably this is a stupid question but as I can see in your photo:

 

1.- this is a very sunny day

2.- Due the DOF with only a few flowers in focus probably you have used 1.4 - 2.0 aperture settings.

 

Have you checked that 1/8000 is enough to get an accurate exposure?

 

Regards

 

Arturo

 

I don't remember the shutter speed for that one, but I know it wasn't as fast as 1/8000...

 

In any case, I recently got a whole bunch of vintage Leica lenses from the 1950's and I realized that I hadn't tried any modern glass since I've noticed the over exposure. So, I put on my 35mm Nokton (like the vintage glass, it's not 6-bit coded) and went outside. Attached is what I got.

 

Better. Is this about where I should be? Obviously, it's not as bright now.

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[jaapv]

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Your camera - and all your computer programs - has a histogram. Use it. Image 1 is over by 1 stop, image #2 is correct, image #3 is underexposed by 2/3rd stop.

[acanalda]

You can see the speed and iso in the EXIF data. If the speed is 1/8000 you have used a wrong aperture to this light conditions and your camera is ok.

[ryan1938]

You can see the speed and iso in the EXIF data. If the speed is 1/8000 you have used a wrong aperture to this light conditions and your camera is ok.

 

Oh... yeah... Sorry...

 

On the first shot posted (the one that is so over exposed), the shutter speed was 1/1502. And I just checked my notes too... It was taken with a 9cm Elmar at f4.

[Nicoleica]

To be honest, in my opinion these pictures are all examples of what I would expect from the fairly simple fat-spot/centre-weighted metering on the M8. As mentioned previously, many users set their compensation to -1/3 stop, but even this would not help in these situations.

 

The meter is trying to average out the metered area to be an average tonal value. In all of the overexposed shots there are large areas of darker colours within the metered area, and in the underexposed shot a very bright background. The camera has done its best to average this out, resulting in the undesired exposures. More complex metering systems can allow for this, but the 'M' does not have one of those.

Time, practice, and an understanding of how your camera's meter works will help you to allow for these situations. Don't despair, as we've all had to learn the basics of correct exposure. For many of us, there was no other option, as it was in the days before multi-pattern matrix metering. You might find it useful to get an external meter, and use incident metering for these types of awkward subject.

[scsambrook]

Ryan - your first picture looks to be 'desaturated' as well as over exposed. If it's an old 90 Elmar it might be wise to check if it's suffering from misting internally - or even a dirty rear surface. 'Dirty' lenses scatter light internally and reduce contrast; if you add that to over-exposure, the results can de very disappointing.

 

The M8 metering system may not be sophisticated, but it works very well provided you understand it. If you're new to working out exposures, look for a book on basic photo technique to get you on the right road. Given the cost of 'digital film' don't be afraid to experiment, and remember that folks were getting correct exposures long before the histogram came along.

 

One nice thing about the M8 (and I suppose the M9 as well) is that if you use the "A" setting it's very easy to aim the camera and make a series of exposures using the meter locking facility to pick out highlight, mid-tone and shadow readings. Good luck with it!

[ryan1938]

Ryan - your first picture looks to be 'desaturated' as well as over exposed. If it's an old 90 Elmar it might be wise to check if it's suffering from misting internally - or even a dirty rear surface. 'Dirty' lenses scatter light internally and reduce contrast; if you add that to over-exposure, the results can de very disappointing.

 

The M8 metering system may not be sophisticated, but it works very well provided you understand it. If you're new to working out exposures, look for a book on basic photo technique to get you on the right road. Given the cost of 'digital film' don't be afraid to experiment, and remember that folks were getting correct exposures long before the histogram came along.

 

One nice thing about the M8 (and I suppose the M9 as well) is that if you use the "A" setting it's very easy to aim the camera and make a series of exposures using the meter locking facility to pick out highlight, mid-tone and shadow readings. Good luck with it!

 

I think you might be right... This is combination of a vintage lens and an unexperienced user and not so much a camera issue.

 

Thank you for the help fellas.

[wda]

It seems like a combination of errors has compounded your problem. Do get used to interpreting the camera histogram after every shot until you consistently get satisfactory results. Tighten up your exposure control by using manual settings. I find the meter remarkably accurate if I use the camera with thought. Only you know where the emphasis of correct exposure should be in a shot.

 

Also, use the profile settings to suit your way of working. In winter or in low-light situations, my Profile 1 contains no EV correction, whereas in summer I dial in -1/3 EV. This is common practice, I believe.

 

Older lenses do behave differently and generally do not have the clarity and/or transmission qualities of newer lenses. Each generation of lenses has its adherents and admirers.

 

As a final resort, if exposure problems persist, get it sorted out by Leica. Exposure control should be the least of your worries.

[Double Negative]

...I normally set my M8 camera to underexpose - 1/3 except when I use it under low light conditions....

 

That's what I've always done as well. On the M9 I'm finding it not so necessary.