billmary Posted September 9, 2010 Share #1 Posted September 9, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have an M8 (upgraded to 8.2) using a Leica UV/IR filter on a Elmarit 35mm lens. Compared to my D Lux 4, and a friends Canon S90, the greens (grass, leaves, etc) are rather dull and a muddy brownish color. I can almost, but not quite, correct for this by shifting the temperature about 100 degrees toward blue in post processing. Anyone else with this problem? Any suggestion? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 9, 2010 Posted September 9, 2010 Hi billmary, Take a look here M8, UV/IR filter, brownish, dull greens. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
wda Posted September 9, 2010 Share #2 Posted September 9, 2010 Are you shooting Raw? How are you processing your files? Is the menu set to recognize the lens coding and UV/IR filter? Just a few of the obvious points to clarify. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billmary Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted September 9, 2010 Sorry, should have specified: shooting raw, processed in Apple iPhoto, lens coding and UV/IR filter set to ON, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garygsandhu Posted September 9, 2010 Share #4 Posted September 9, 2010 That's the color choices Leica made . You can read lots about it: ken Rockwell struggles with it: Erwin puts rationizes it; and Leica shooters call it the leica look or adjust greens, blue, and yellow saturation and hue sliders in their DNG processor of choice (I'm using lightroom). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 9, 2010 Share #5 Posted September 9, 2010 Try another RAW converter - C1 with the right camera profile, or Lightroom/Photoshop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted September 9, 2010 Share #6 Posted September 9, 2010 Sorry, should have specified: shooting raw, processed in Apple iPhoto, lens coding and UV/IR filter set to ON, Bill I join the suggestion to use another RAW processor. (I use Lightroom, and tuning the greens I admit is not rare)... btw, which 35 lens do you exactly refer to ? There is not an Elmarit 35. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billmary Posted September 9, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted September 9, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) I thought the look was "natural" or "normal" until I got the D Lux 4. The D Lux 4 looks more like the actual scene. I wonder what the photographs from the X1 and the M9 look like. (By the way, my 35 mm lens is a Summarit, NOT an Elmarrt). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted September 9, 2010 Share #8 Posted September 9, 2010 Check that you're really using an UV/IR filter and not a UV one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiggi Posted September 10, 2010 Share #9 Posted September 10, 2010 I join the suggestion to use another RAW processor. By the way, using CinePaint with UFRaw I get better colors than with CaptureOne (and LightRoom). But I use them in LINUX. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billmary Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted September 10, 2010 I am using a UV/IR filter, Leica # 13416, according to the engraving on the filter ring. Will try another RAW processor, either Aperture 3 or Lightroom, any suggestions? Don't have access to LINUX (I don't think I do anyway.) Sorry about the 35mm Summarit-M name slip up, I also have a 24 mm Elmarit-M and my pea-sized brain got the names mixed up. Thanks for all the help. Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted September 10, 2010 Share #11 Posted September 10, 2010 Bill, are you using a lens hood with your lens? This can make quite a difference in bright sunlight, as contrast reducing glare can come from many sources. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billmary Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share #12 Posted September 10, 2010 Thanks Nicoleica, I'm not using a lens hood. I can find one at B&H for the 35mm Summicron, but not specifically for the Summarit. Do you think the Summicro hood would work on the Summarit? They are both 39mm. Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wda Posted September 10, 2010 Share #13 Posted September 10, 2010 Bill, I can only recommend Lightroom which I have used from its first launch. It is now a super programme and very versatile. You have so much flexibility to fine tune the processing of Raw files and then, save your settings as a Preset. Whenever you ingest new pictures into your library, you can choose to have that preset applied during importation. That is a real time-saver. Remember, that is not the end of processing. You can fine-tune any selected or batch of images to cater for unusual lighting etc. Just one word of warning: allow plenty of time to build up your knowledge and expertise. Read a good current book on the subject. Gradually you will establish your own bespoke work-flow and get the high standard of results you are seeking. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesL Posted September 10, 2010 Share #14 Posted September 10, 2010 ...Will try another RAW processor, either Aperture 3 or Lightroom, any suggestions? Bill Here is a discussion of Leica yellowish greens in terms of segments of the hues spectrum, with an example of working on this in Picture Window Pro (an economical but powerful program): Digital Light & Color • View topic - Using hue curve to "get the green out of yellows" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted September 10, 2010 Share #15 Posted September 10, 2010 Thanks Nicoleica,I'm not using a lens hood. I can find one at B&H for the 35mm Summicron, but not specifically for the Summarit. Do you think the Summicro hood would work on the Summarit? They are both 39mm. Bill Hi Bill, The 35 Summarit takes the same hood as the 50 Summarit. This is a screw on metal hood that fits onto the lens after the protection ring is removed, not onto the filter thread. (Part #12459) The B&H reference is LELH3550M. It's a nice solid hood, works well, and it looks good too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
billmary Posted September 11, 2010 Author Share #16 Posted September 11, 2010 Thanks Nicoleica, I found the lens hood you mention at B&H. The one review of it says that it rotates easily back out of position, thereby fouling the hood function. Have you, or others had this problem? Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicoleica Posted September 12, 2010 Share #17 Posted September 12, 2010 Hi Bill, I never had any trouble with mine. It screwed on and fitted firmly, never showing any signs of moving. Then again, I'm reasonably careful in how I treat my cameras. I suppose it would be possible to loosen it if you treated it roughly. But even if that did occur, I'm sure that a tiny spot of something like 'Loctite' would cure it. The hood is not normally something that you take on and off a lot. More a case of fit once, and keep on forever. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
archi4 Posted September 12, 2010 Share #18 Posted September 12, 2010 Like Nicole, the hood on my 35 summarit has worked perfectly for me. (for those who have noticed that I am selling it, that is because I own a 35 summilux asph with no backfocus and am raising cash for an M9) I had a very hard time choosing which lens to sell as the summarit is nice and compact and the IQ is truly beautiful. The extra 1 1/2 stop made me decide. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted September 13, 2010 Share #19 Posted September 13, 2010 ... ken Rockwell struggles with it: Erwin puts rationizes it ... Gary, you neglected to mention that there are also articles on getting M8 colors from other camera brands, such as the one comparing M8 and D200 at KammaGamma, or the Lightroom presets offered at KammaGamma, enabling you to get M8 colors from the D3. And Charles, the name of the link you posted, "Digital Light & Color &bull ...", seems quite apropos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garygsandhu Posted September 13, 2010 Share #20 Posted September 13, 2010 Gary, you neglected to mention that there are also articles on getting M8 colors from other camera brands, such as the one at KammaGamma. Yeah, sorry about that. I actually came across that when googling a solution to the Leica color scheme. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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