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Unfortunately I´m from the Czech Republic:( The extender has written on its body just this: Extender-R 2x, for Leica-R, Leitz, Lens made in Germany. I´d guess it could be the version for Leica R.

If I put the extender into the Leicaflex body, I can´t turn it to clip it to the body. Something doesn´t allow to do so.

I bought the Leicaflex SL to "replace" my Leica R5 in my bag but now I need to carry both of them so that I can use my 180/2.8 + 2x extender:(

So if it´s possible and easy to modify either the camera or the extender, I´d be so glad!!

 

The modifications are simple for a good repair technican with machine tools: either mill the extra little ridge from the camera-end flange of the extender and slightly enlarge the slot for the lock pin, or trim the inner diameter of the SL's flange just enough to clear the ridge on the extender's flange, and possibly (depending on the version) trim the sides of the lens lock pin.

 

Another way to modify the extender is to buy an old 14198 or 14262 extension tube for its parts and use the camera-end flange to replace the flange on the extender. A 2-cam extension tube would be quite inexpensive and the flange would work perfectly.

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Dear Doug, thank you very much for your help, you really know your stuff!!!

 

I was just wondering...is it possible to take the bayonet ring e.g. from the R4 body and put in into the Leicaflex so that I can attach the extender?

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How did you make an SL body compatible with ROM lenses??? I've been thinking about an SL or SL2 body, but half my lenses are ROM.

 

The inner diameter of the SL's flange has to be trimmed a bit, and in some cases the lens lock pin needs to be trimmed narrower. Add a 2nd cam to the lens for full-aperture metering on the SL.

 

This cannot be done with the Leicaflex Standard or SL2 because the cam follower for the first cam would foul the lens' ROM contacts. The modified SL still has the mirror box restrictions so not all ROM lenses will fit.

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Seems that this got a little off track. First we're talking our opinion of best of "R". Then we're off on a tangent of fitting lens mount modifications for an SL.

Well I'm going to try and nudge it back to which 'R' camera. For my money I've put it into two R6.2s and one R7. The 6.2s are the workhorses that Leica had in mind when they developed a new mechanical camera. The battery is used solely for the meter. If the battery goes belly up you still have two speeds, 1/60 and 1/125. The viewfinders are bright and the screens interchangeable. The top plate and bottom are brass, the entire body is an alloy. No plastic. My other choice is the R7. Leica pulled out all the stops and put in electronics that you can set for about every metering situation and circumstance. The viewfinder is bright, again interchangeable screens. Spot metering is virtually endless. The battery of necessity, is heavily called on on. It is an electronic camera. However I'm still on my first battery from last year. I saw at least one contributor give excellent advice. If they are used get them CLAd. All three 'Rs' that I purchased used went for cleaning, lube and any adjustments. All three only needed minor CLA. That told me, I'd made some excellent choices.

Good hunting.

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The 6.2s are the workhorses that Leica had in mind when they developed a new mechanical camera. The battery is used solely for the meter.

 

Self-timer & I suspect flash sync too.

 

If the battery goes belly up you still have two speeds, 1/60 and 1/125.

 

On the R6 and R6.2 you still have the full range of shutter speeds with a dead battery.

 

The top plate and bottom are brass

 

Zinc alloy not brass.

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Seems that this got a little off track. First we're talking our opinion of best of "R". Then we're off on a tangent of fitting lens mount modifications for an SL. .

 

The original poster asked about the SL in the third message in the thread, so I'd guess it's ok to discuss the camera and any lens modifications that might be needed.

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Yeah, I´ve already seen the difference between the earlier and later versions of R-lenses. It shouldn´t be a problem to modify the bayonet on SL body.

I´d say my Leicaflex must have already been in service because the expozimeter , powered by 1,5V battery, works the same as my other Leicas-R or some external expozimeters. And I see no low-sensitivity problems in low-light conditions.

It really works OK.

 

But if I look through the viewfinder, the picture is a bit yellow. Is this normal? Can it affect the photographs anyhow? I haven´t finished my first film in SL body yet to see the results.

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Yeah, I´ve already seen the difference between the earlier and later versions of R-lenses. It shouldn´t be a problem to modify the bayonet on SL body.

I´d say my Leicaflex must have already been in service because the expozimeter , powered by 1,5V battery, works the same as my other Leicas-R or some external expozimeters. And I see no low-sensitivity problems in low-light conditions.

It really works OK.

 

But if I look through the viewfinder, the picture is a bit yellow. Is this normal? Can it affect the photographs anyhow? I haven´t finished my first film in SL body yet to see the results.

 

Any yellowness visible in the finder will not affect your photographs. However, it could be indicative of the viewfinder prism 'showing its age' and thus the finder might not be as bright as when it was new.

 

dunk

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  • 2 years later...

Kind of an old thread now, but here is my $0.02 on best R.

 

The R6.2, but if the price is too high, you can get the R6 for about half the price and not really miss much other than the 1/2000th speed.

 

I love my R6, use it more than my Sony A850 and NEX 7 digitals. I also own an R3 MOT that has a smoother and nicer shutter release and AE, but there is just something that feels right about the R6 that causes it to usually be the one I grab in the morning.

 

Most of the time, I have the 35 Elmarit-R attached, though I'll often bring the 90 Elmarit-R in a pocket. Sometimes I'll sub the 135 Elmarit-R for the 90, or when I don't want to both with changing lenses, just bring the 50 Summicron-R and leave everything else at home. Whatever I mount on it, the R6 is just a delight to use.

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I love my R6.2... I doubt I'd ever part with it. It's not M3 like but certainly comparable to any later M. I especially like the way the meter just works.

 

I do also like the R8/9s but the somewhat common failing light meter issue is a big problem for me. Someone should work out a way to fix these without the big expense.

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Hi,

I´m looking for some Leica R camera. I already have R4 and R5 and I´d like to buy some "better" of R series. Can anybody give me an advice which one to choose?

I have already been thinking about R6.2 or R8. Fully mechanical R6.2 really attracts me because of its indepence on battery power but its price is so so high, I´d say overpriced maybe. And I like the simplicity.

What attract me about R8 it´s its very fast shutter and even better setting for long expositions. What disattracts me is its complete dependence on battery power. How long do the batteries live?

Does so many metering modes and functions disattract from concentrating on taking pics itself?

What would you recommend me to choose? What do you think is better? Better performer? Better pleasure to use?

 

Does anybody know any shops in Europe where to get R6.2 for a good price?

 

I have both. The R 6.2 is slow to use because of the non-automatic

metering system and the wind on is stiffer bevcause it has to cock the shutter as well as move the film.

The batteries for the R8 last quite a long time and it is no trouble to carry a spare one with you. I would recommend the R8 for everyday use.[ It also has TTL flash control]

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I have both. The R 6.2 is slow to use because of the non-automatic

metering system and the wind on is stiffer bevcause it has to cock the shutter as well as move the film.

The batteries for the R8 last quite a long time and it is no trouble to carry a spare one with you. I would recommend the R8 for everyday use.[ It also has TTL flash control]

 

I don't find the R6.2 'slow' to use, how much simpler does a metering system need to be? 3 lights, when the middle one is fully lit in spot mode, exposure is good,job done.

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I don't find the R6.2 'slow' to use, how much simpler does a metering system need to be? 3 lights, when the middle one is fully lit in spot mode, exposure is good,job done.

 

 

With the others from the R3 to R9, you don't need to move the controls [which takes time,] you just set it to aperture priority or auto & squeeze the tit!

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With the others from the R3 to R9, you don't need to move the controls [which takes time,] you just set it to aperture priority or auto & squeeze the tit!

 

I get more consistently accurate exposures in manual mode. Exposure compensation in aperture priority or other auto mode takes longer. I curse the R8's mode dial because it is too easily bumped from manual to other modes.

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I get more consistently accurate exposures in manual mode. Exposure compensation in aperture priority or other auto mode takes longer. I curse the R8's mode dial because it is too easily bumped from manual to other modes.

 

I'm with Doug. I always shoot in manual. I have a R8 and a R9 (both with DMRs). I know that some prefer the R8, but I much prefer the R9. I find the mode dial rotates inadvertently when brushed,as opposed to the R9, which has a lock on the mode dial.

 

Charlie

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