Which flash? A Leica flash?

[sergiofigliolia]

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I think you'll need an adapter to use the SB900 directly on the M9 because the foot of the flash is bigger than the Leica hot shoe.

 

could you please link one?

[Luke_Miller]

could you please link one?

 

Not sure you will need one. Full disclosure: I do not own either an SB-900 or an M9. However, I use a variety of Nikon and Leica flash units on my M8.2, which seems to have the same flash shoe as the M9. The Leica flash shoe is a bit of a tight fit on the foot of most flash units (including Leica), but the Nikon SB-25, and two different SB-800s mount and work properly in manual and auto-thyrister modes on my M8.2.

[Peter H]

Not sure you will need one. Full disclosure: I do not own either an SB-900 or an M9. However, I use a variety of Nikon and Leica flash units on my M8.2, which seems to have the same flash shoe as the M9. The Leica flash shoe is a bit of a tight fit on the foot of most flash units (including Leica), but the Nikon SB-25, and two different SB-800s mount and work properly in manual and auto-thyrister modes on my M8.2.

 

I have both an SB900 and an M9 and they don't fit.

 

But I also have an SF 58, so I've never gone out of my way to find an adapter for the SB900, so sorry, I can't help you there.

[pico]

Any flash that has a pre-flash to open people's eyes also cause the pupils to constrict, which in my humble opinion is undesirable. - can provide citations.

[lars_bergquist]

The point of the pre-flash that most compact cameras use (or offer, via menu) is exactly to make the pupils contract, reducing the risk of redeye.

 

The pre-flash used with flash TTL in the Leica, e.g. is completely different: It is to establish correct exposure by means of a trial flash metered off the shutter blind. Film cameras could meter off the film during the actual exposure, as film has a matte surface, but the front of a sensor is shiny and would give false readings. The time lapse between the pre-flash and the following exposure flash is so short, btw, that the pupils have no time to contract much. Check in front of a mirror, with a flashlight, how long it takes for the pupil to contract when a strong light shines into the eye. This is why sudden strong light does blind us!

 

Pico, I think you are confusing TTL pre-flash with the (synchronous) fill flash from the secondary flash head that is always aimed to the front on many large flashes that have tilting heads. The object of this is to lessen the shadows under the eye ridges of a subject, that are often caused by light bounced from straight overhead.

 

The old man from the Age of Flashpowder (wham!)

[Luke_Miller]

could you please link one?

 

The challenge I've found with the newer Nikon flashes and cords is that the locking pin on the flash or cord foot may not enter the corresponding hole in the Leica flash shoe. This creates the possibility that the flash or cord may slide off the shoe. I have two SB-800s. One will mount and lock on my M8.2, while the other will mount but not lock. So the tolerances are such that your SB-900 may, or may not, fit and lock.

 

If your SB-900 won't fit and lock in your M8 flash shoe you can use one of the Nikon flash cords like the SC-17 or SC-28. The Nissin SC-01 looks like an option as well. I use the Nikon SC-28 which fits and locks properly on my M8.2. The SC-17 and (it appears) the Nissin, use the older locking system which uses a ring to tighten the foot in the shoe and does not depend on the locking pin to secure it in the shoe.

 

Another solution some have used is to notch the front of the foot so it slides a bit further in the shoe and locks properly.

[ayewing]

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I was happy to find that old flashes dating back to my Leica film days work well with the digital Leicas in Auto Thyristor mode. My old Vivitar 2500 has had a new lease of life.

 

I recently was lucky enough to find a second hand SF24D which works very well in PTTL mode and has the advantage of being very small and light. I have used the method of using it off camera with a Nikon SC-17 lead as described by Lars. I find holding the flash in one hand and the camera in the other awkward and prefer to mount the flash on a stand or tripod when used off camera if circumstances permit. The SC-17 stretches to about 2 meters so this is possible though a longer lead might be preferable.

[digitalpowershot]

I've had my SF58 for 2 days and everyone in and around our house is pretty much blind at this point. The dog won't come near me when I'm

 

:D

[sergiofigliolia]

Hi all,

I have tried just to fit my SB-900 on my M8 but it doesn't lock.

I'm afraid to drop it this way.

Does anyone know of an adapter?

[Luke_Miller]

Hi all,

I have tried just to fit my SB-900 on my M8 but it doesn't lock.

I'm afraid to drop it this way.

Does anyone know of an adapter?

 

If by adapter you mean something that would mount in the Leica hot shoe and convert it to a Nikon hot shoe - you might try the Nissin SC-01. The camera end has a hot shoe so you can mont a flash on the camera while the cord is attached.

 

Nissin Digital Flash:

[Luke_Miller]

You can also make a slight modification to the flash foot on your SB-900 that will allow it to lock in. See post #35 in this thread.

 

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/61485-nikon-sb-900-m8.html

 

 

But after all is said and done I prefer the Leica SF-24D and SF-58. I do not use direct flash and rarely use on camera flash and find that TTL flash works best in my use. Others prefer manual or Auto Thyrister modes and Nikon (and other brand) flashes work fine for them.

[sergiofigliolia]

the modification to the sb-900 doesn't look so easy to do...

btw what is the screw on the hot shoe towards the front of the camera(on the m8)?

 

Do you guys think I would be fine interposing one of these in between sb-900 and m8?

Cowboystudio Hot shoe to Hot Shoe Adapter for Nikon: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

 

does the fact that there is a screw on its bottom mean it will lock on an m8 by means of pressure?

[Luke_Miller]

Looks like it would work. The large ring screws down on the top of the body's hot shoe and will hold it in place if tightened even if the locking pin (I think I see it in the photo) does not mate with the hole in the shoe.

 

My only concern with the "adapter solution" is that further raises the center of gravity and makes the M8/M9 with a large camera mounted flash even more unwieldy than it would be without it. You may find that you hate the handling.

[Jamie Roberts]

So I've used flashes from Canon (550s-580s), Nikon (in manual mode fitted on a PW TT1 for Canon LOL) and Metz on my M8/M9 and I recently purchased an SF 58, which is just about perfect for the M9.

 

TTL is great when it works--which is most of the time. I bounce all the time, to my side, behind me, and yes.. I avoid the straight ceiling bounce. I too like direction to my light. Most often, I'm also firing other off-camera flashes to aid the main the light (or they become the main light, and the on-camera just fills).

 

TTL is silly on the M9 in certain circumstances, for instance when the pre-flash can't supply enough light back to the camera even though a ton of light will be on the subject (a large, dark area behind the subject--or a large light area--will often throw the whole system off, in my experience) and in that regard it's just not as consistent as Nikon's or Canon's ETTL, but they have their own issues, and the SF 58 is the right size and connection with the Ms.

 

A couple of points. Lars is totally right about the flash making things freeze--so you can hand-hold shots at very low shutter speeds, but that's ONLY if the ambient light isn't strong enough to also register motion... In other words, if the ambient becomes equal to the flash output, you need to drop the ambient levels down significantly or you're going to get blur...

 

I use this to my advantage all the time to show movement when dancing, but it's something you want to control.

 

Most of the time when things get really tricky in a dark reception, I'll just meter the ambient to be 1-2 stops under, then add enough manual flash to fill correctly. Since you can chimp, it's very easy to set up, and you needn't fuss much with auto settings or guide number calculations. Just remember the rule of thumb is to pick a reasonable aperture (say, f2.8 to f4) and control the ambient with your shutter (it should be below the flash output). If you can't achieve that 2 stops under play with the ISO till you get it. Then add flash--I start with 1/8 power and adjust from there....but try TTL first. If you're not bouncing "into the dark" or "into the light" it will work very nicely with the M9.

[erlingmm]

I have the SF 58, and use it rarely, but found it very good in certain situations, e.g. dance in dark environments.

 

I photographed a wedding, where I moved freely among the dancing couples late in the party, using the SF 58 in TTL mode with a Gary Fong Lightsphere diffuser on top and 1/4 effect straight on, 1/4 sec f/4 on a 35 mm, ISO 640, second curtain sync, handheld on a Nikon cable.

 

Got some very interesting effects from background lights and people moving, while the flash "locked" a sharp picture of the nearest couple at about 1 meter. Very dynamic.

[jim sink]

I just shot a wedding with my M9 and SF24d flash. They looked good on the monitor but after I downloaded all the images and looked at them on my computer I could not believe how well lit they were. That little flash does an incredible job. Highly recommend the SF24d.

[sergiofigliolia]

I have played around with my M8 and Nikon SB-900 and although it doesn't lock the flash stays firmly in.

 

I wanted to ask now for a wireless trigger solution which would work with M8+SB-900 and also allows me to have TTL in case I bought a Leica flash one day.

Anyone?

[Jamie Roberts]

I have played around with my M8 and Nikon SB-900 and although it doesn't lock the flash stays firmly in.

 

I wanted to ask now for a wireless trigger solution which would work with M8+SB-900 and also allows me to have TTL in case I bought a Leica flash one day.

Anyone?

 

Yeah, the SB900 on the Ms is flaky but it does work. Too loose for my comfort zone without modifications, which means it isn't really worth it.

 

There are wireless solutions that would work with an SB900 (or any other flash) and the M8. Pocketwizards are the ones I use all the time.

 

However, that's not a TTL solution, but a manual solution.

 

The SF58 can evidently be triggered optically by another SF58 in master / slave mode (much like other series flashes from Canon and Nikon).

 

Offhand, I don't know for sure if that's a TTL relationship or not.

 

In practical terms, TTL isn't that important with other flashes in the picture. It's more important to get a balanced light with whatever ambient you want to preserve IMO, and you can do that manually usually without much trouble.

[sergiofigliolia]

You mean this one:

Pixel Pro Digital & Film Camera Wireless Flash & Studio: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

 

for Nikon would work with the transmitter fitted on the M8?

 

Well but TTL could be useful if you wanted to use a single off camera flash for quick portraits.

I know a cable would do in that case but I wouldn't buy also the cable if wireless trigger would work in ttl(obviously provided I had a Leica flash).

Doesnàt this make sense?

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[Jamie Roberts]

You mean this one:

Pixel Pro Digital & Film Camera Wireless Flash & Studio: Amazon.co.uk: Electronics

 

for Nikon would work with the transmitter fitted on the M8?

 

Well but TTL could be useful if you wanted to use a single off camera flash for quick portraits.

I know a cable would do in that case but I wouldn't buy also the cable if wireless trigger would work in ttl(obviously provided I had a Leica flash).

Doesnàt this make sense?

 

If this is aimed at me...

 

No, I use PocketWizards in manual mode:

 

PocketWizard® - Remote flash and camera triggers for professional and advanced amateur photographers

 

The traditional Plus Transceivers are reliable and rugged.

 

I also use this--a TT1 made for Canon--

 

Pocketwizard® - Wireless transmitters and receivers

 

Which I have set up for MANUAL triggering. So I can put a Leica (or Metz or Canon or Nikon) flash on top of the TT1 set to Manual mode, and still fire 2 or three other flashes remotely. 3 or 4 lights with no hassle.

 

Yes, wireless (radio) TTL would be nice but it doesn't exist for Leica.

 

And truthfully, if you want to use a single off camera flash for a portrait, manual is just as easy with digital since you can see the results and adjust.

 

Now, if the M9 had a PC socket, then I could do what I'd really like: put an SF 58 on the shoe in TTL mode *and* fire wireless remote flashes via a PocketWizard at the same time.

 

But it doesn't have a PC socket so you can't do this.

 

As I said, you can trigger multiple SF 58s in master and slave mode--but that's an optical trigger, not radio.