Advice Needed on Sensor Cleaning (again)

[jaapv]

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I visited my dealer last Thursday. I asked my contact to show me how he cleans the sensor. He used a standard Q-tip and alcohol (I have the 99% stuff at home). He first used the Arctic Butterfly to dry clean--a couple of swipes. He then poured a small amount of alcohol in a cap. Dipped one Q-tip in the cap, then used a second Q-tip to remove excess liquid from the first. He then very lightly dabbed across the surface of the glass covering the sensor. Took two attempts. He then used a rocket blower. I asked him about just moving the dust around. He indicated that the physics of the blower blows the dust particles up and out rather than around.

 

Spotless. My problem (and I suspect the problems of others with streaks) is that I had too much liquid on the Q-tip.

 

Everyone is free to call this guy a nut, but it worked just fine. The materials can be purchased when traveling. This method is much cheaper than all these expensive solutions and dabs. I suspect that the pricing reflects the basic paranoia of camera uses about the sensor--as in, only the best for my sensor.

That is another thing I tested by looking at the sensor using an operation microscope. The normal Q-tips will leave incredible amounts of fibres on the sensor, which you may remove by blowing (either with the rocket blower or with oil-free compressed air, as I do) but under the microscope I will still see a considerable number or fiber rests using this method. Definitely not recommended. I do agree that blowing does remove dust particles quite effectively, it does NOT " just move them around"

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[jaapv]

Still trying to work out why people use wet cleaning systems. I have two M9s and have had two M8s and have never done anything other than use Visible dust brushes (currently with Arctic Butterfly). No smears, no problems (but I never saw oil on my sensors either...).

It is not just oil. Pollen sticks to the sensor quite strongly as well.

[yanceman]

I visited my dealer last Thursday. I asked my contact to show me how he cleans the sensor. He used a standard Q-tip and alcohol (I have the 99% stuff at home). He first used the Arctic Butterfly to dry clean--a couple of swipes. He then poured a small amount of alcohol in a cap. Dipped one Q-tip in the cap, then used a second Q-tip to remove excess liquid from the first. He then very lightly dabbed across the surface of the glass covering the sensor. Took two attempts. He then used a rocket blower. I asked him about just moving the dust around. He indicated that the physics of the blower blows the dust particles up and out rather than around.

 

Spotless. My problem (and I suspect the problems of others with streaks) is that I had too much liquid on the Q-tip.

 

Everyone is free to call this guy a nut, but it worked just fine. The materials can be purchased when traveling. This method is much cheaper than all these expensive solutions and dabs. I suspect that the pricing reflects the basic paranoia of camera uses about the sensor--as in, only the best for my sensor.

 

If you want to use qtips and rubbiing alcohol, the stuff at the drugstore, be my guest. Rubbing alcohol contains oil, which is why denatured alcohol is used by professionals for cleaning audio and video heads. No residue.

 

When using the hand blower, hold the camera upside down at an angle and wait a bit before righting it after blowing.

[yanceman]

Still trying to work out why people use wet cleaning systems.

 

Err...because it's better than other methods for dealing with some situations?

[zlatkob]

As M9 owners, it seems many of us have had to deal with sensor cleaning issues like never before in our photographic lives.

I recall a thread in which someone asked for a dust removal system in the M9. A number of people argued very strongly against it.

[gpleica]

To all...here's an update. I searched the forum and Geoff (Hoppyman) had the same experience I had...which was to use undersized Eclipse swabs (size 2, not 3 as we should have) and found the process left behind a lot of fluid streaks and puddles. In my situation, the pre-moistened swabs were not only undersized, they also had way too much fluid on them.

 

So I drove 2 hours to a camera store in northern New Jersey yesterday and bought the full sensor size Eclipse Swabs (size 3 - a 12 pack) and their fluid. Just like in Hoppyman's case, I used the full sized swabs and the problem was solved...but not quite so easily...it took me 8 swabs to get my sensor clean of all the fluid marks. The marks on the edges were particularly difficult. You're not suppose to use the same swab twice (I tried and they're right...it just introduced more dust and streaking). In the end, I also used my rocket blower to get the dust off the sensor...it was loose and was blown right off while holding the camera upside down. I was NOT going to use the Dust-Aid Platinum again to get the dust off...the residue it left was the reason a wet-cleaning was needed in the first place!

 

So life is good again. Even one day without this camera in full working order was stressful. I have two flights and two shoots scheduled for early this week and I wasn't looking forward to putting my Nikons back in the driver's seat.

 

Jaap, I'd still like to hear what other fluid you use that doesn't leave streaks. And do you use fresh swabs each time you touch your sensor?

 

Thanks to everyone for their 2 cents on this topic.

 

Geoffrey

Milford, PA

[sanyasi]

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That is another thing I tested by looking at the sensor using an operation microscope. The normal Q-tips will leave incredible amounts of fibres on the sensor, which you may remove by blowing (either with the rocket blower or with oil-free compressed air, as I do) but under the microscope I will still see a considerable number or fiber rests using this method. Definitely not recommended. I do agree that blowing does remove dust particles quite effectively, it does NOT " just move them around"

 

As I recall, you were using micro brushes. Someone asked what brand. The company you referred to has a large product line and it was unclear from the picture what type of brush you were using.

 

If this was you, could you provide the model number/name? My dentist gave me come micro brushes when I asked about it, but not knowing what they were, I decided not use them. Also, could you elaborate on what a micro brush is and why they don't scratch glass?

 

Thanks and if you are not the person, disregard.

[sanyasi]

And while we are on the topic of cleaning, this is an issue where Leica could get off its butt and start providing decent information. All of this second guessing and worrying is a waste of everybody's time.

 

Leica should put out a clear statement regarding recommended cleaning. I recall reading that they don't want to refer to a specific product because its formulation might change. Fine, then just like the battery, the charger, and the cases (I assume), retain a third party to create a cleaning kit and brand it Leica. Problem solved.

[parasko]

Just to add a query to the discussion...

 

....do most M9s initially have on the sensor what has been described as a type of residue/lubricant etc? For those which do, will the sensor ruin if this initial residue is not removed with a 'wet' clean, and the camera is only 'cleaned' in due course via a blower brush? (this is the strategy I am considering)

[jaapv]

It will certainly not ruin the sensor, noor do all M9 cameras have oil spots. It is even not certain whether it is actually oil.Anyway, if blowing doesn't work, a quick swipe suffices. If you get clinging dust like pollen or statically charged on the sensor at a later stage, as happens with all cameras,even sometimes with those with cleaning systems, the same quick routine applies. Or you can choose to pay Calumet 50 Euro for the courtesy....

[Shootist]

Still trying to work out why people use wet cleaning systems. I have two M9s and have had two M8s and have never done anything other than use Visible dust brushes (currently with Arctic Butterfly). No smears, no problems (but I never saw oil on my sensors either...).

 

Because as has been noted throughout the life of both the M8 and M9 the shutter leaves oil spots on some cameras when new until about a 1000 or so shots. And the simple fact is a wet cleaning gets the sensor clean. Although these brush systems may work good enough for you they have not for me and many others and that is on several different makes and model cameras. Otherwise these companies would go out of business.

[diogenis]

Arctic Butterfly, has never cleaned my sensor 100% either. Many dust particles remained, but it wasn't oil either. From now on I will use the dust aid platinum and see how this will work as opposed to the butterfly.

[jaapv]

I had a very bad experience using Dust-Aid.

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digital-forum/121761-dust-aid.html

[tobey bilek]

Prevention of dust has been my philosophy. Keep the back of lenses clean and use caps that are clean inside. Have the new lens prepped, oriented and ready, not leaving the camera open long. Face away from wind and keep the mount down.

 

Blow out the inside after each outing before any dust has a chance to migrate to the sensor. This involves using the blower only and clean the outside of the shutter without opening it.

 

If and when you get spots on the photos, then blow off the sensor. If that does not work, after the first wet clean, use the Copperhill sensor brush. If that fails, then wet clean with wet Pec Pads, TWO drops of Ecli[pse, no more , no less.

 

Complete and accurate instructons are on Copperhill site. Do not invent your own procedures.

 

Stay away from crap laying around the house like Q Tips and rubbing alcohol or you will be very sorry sooner or later.

 

Canned "air" can be used and I have with good results. Follow the precautions on Copperhill site. This is very important.

[diogenis]

I had a very bad experience using Dust-Aid.

http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/digital-forum/121761-dust-aid.html

 

Woa! How did that happened Jaap? What did you do? Pressed too hard? When you mean about residues, you mean about the adhesive on the sticky papers?

 

Edit: I tried the thing on the M8's IR filter and it worked as it should. I read the manual and it says to operate within 10-35 degrees Celsius (50-100F). I didn't even had to press hard

[jaapv]

No - I did not press hard - the thing just transferred the adhesive from the cleaning pad to the sensor.

 

On canned air: be sure to use a type that is formulated to be used on sensors - some cans will spit hard to remove goo over the sensor.