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Fringing: Technical problem


jaapv

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DMR, VE 105-280 + 1.4x extender.

It is abundantly clear that this image is for the bin. But given that it shows fringing ranging from red through purple to blue depending on focus, I tried to teach myself to remove it. No succes. How would you go about it? Or is it indeed hopeless?

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Partially desaturate? Just tried it within a minute. Maybe the color selection needs a bit more work still for the blues (pun intended :rolleyes:)

 

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Rgds

Ivo

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Guest WPalank

Jaap,

 

Very ironic. Just yesterday I was out at the Mavericks Big Wave Surfing competition with my M9 and 75mm Summilux and took some quick ones while running from some rogue waves that crashed into the spectators dragging and pushing people around (enough that some people broke some bones). Anyway, two of the shots, again no composition or metering) are really fringed out.

 

In LR (haven't tried LR 3 beta yet) I could reduce it only slightly and found Dfine noise reducing plug-in to be no help whatsoever. I was planning to turn to someone like yourself with a great amount of Capture One for advice as I thought there was a tool within the software. I have no answer.

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Maybe not perfect but one minute with the colour replacement brush.

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Guest WPalank

Here's one of my images from the other day in the midst of a rogue wave hitting spectators and washing stuff into the bay. (I didn't notice the guy hanging onto a rock in this image at the time.)

 

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I found LR 2.6.1 to be quite effective by going into the Develop Module> Details Panel>Chromatic Aberrations and selecting "Defringe: All Edges".

 

You have to view the image at 100% in order for it to work. Then when you zoom back in, it's as if you turned off the effect (bug?). But once you create a TFF and export to CS4, for example, the defringing has worked on your image.

 

 

 

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Jaap, you have C1-Pro? Can you just dial down the red and magenta in the color management section?

Yes, Bill, I can. But I would have to dial down red, blue and magenta. In this image that would not matter, but normally the whole colour balance would be upset.

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Defringing in ACR can only do so much with conventional fringing anyway, and desaturating certain colours throws the whole image out of whack, if not important details.

 

I did a quick job with the colour replacement brush and the process accidentally obliterated the orange of the birds beaks, but if I'd have taken longer I would have just selected a smaller brush and gone around them. But its a good tool, because when you have fringing left over after using the ACR CA tool, say like the blues or purples you get in amongst tree branches, you just choose the colour of the branch, or sky, and replace the fringe colour with that, in just the part of the image that needs it. Its quicker that making masks or selections to do the same job, and doesn't affect any other part of the image.

 

Steve

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Mmm, depends how much re-learning you are willing to do.

My whole post capture processing has been totally revolutionised by Dan Margulis' book - Photoshop LAB Color - The Canyon Conundrum and Other Adventures in the Most Powerful Color Space.

This really is revolutionary, it takes you into the realm of image management more powerful than you can imagine BUT you have to be prepared to learn a totally new way of doing it. It will take months of reading (well it has me anyway) but the simple stuff shows immediate and dramatic improvement to your images within the first ten pages of the book and with easy images you find yourself improving things in a few seconds where it would've taken hours using RGB based methods.

With the problem you have here you would have to work on the A and B channels using his advanced techniques and learn how to adjust these as copied selections or masks that let you select all the magenta areas, particularly the highlights and then adjust just these selected areas away from magenta to a more neutral colour using curves in the A channel (told you it wasn't easy to describe!) You would adjust overly blue areas in the B channel using the selected areas.

I'm only just getting my head around some of the advanced stuff like this so I'd struggle to show you how to do it. Dan shows you how to - the book is very well written and even the advanced stuff can be followed but you have to read it a few times.

I hope this is helpful. This book is the best investment I've ever made and showed me the true power of Photoshop BUT I have heard of people who threw the book against the wall a few times.

Ken Davis

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Yep- read it three times. The headache it gave me was much diminished the third time ;) Still I did not manage to get it completely right without shifting into green, and the fact that I needed to correct three colours of fringe complicated matters too much for me. Probably Dan could do it in three seconds flat, but after a year I'm still on the shoulder of the learning curve.

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  • 1 month later...

Just took this picture. I must say, this has to be something I am doing wrong because this is crazy (this is after defringing). :(

 

p.s. I am attaching a scaled down version of the almost complete picture as well so it doesn't look like I was focused entirely on the statue. This was taken with the f0.95 noctilux on an M9.

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Jaap--

 

A few ways to skin that one in post. Here's one.

 

1) add a saturation layer in PS

2) destaturate the reds. Select the + eyedropper and make sure you get the red / magenta purple nonsense there. Desaturate them till they're gone

 

At this point, your shot will be a lot better because it's the purple that doesn't belong in the water. In truth, there isn't a ton of colour in that shot anyway, but the blue speculars are a lot more "natural" than the red ones :)

 

Anyway,

 

3) add another saturation layer on top

4) desaturate the blues / cyans. Select the + eyedropper.

5) Now there won't be much colour left, so go to your "blue desaturation layer" and double click on the layer to bring up layer options.

6) in layer options, where you see the sliders that say "Blend if gray".. this layer, then split the sliders so that only grays above about 220/220/220 are affected (only highlights).

7) Paint back in the rest of any other affected blue in the blue desaturation layer" mask.

 

There you go :) Not the quickest, but it will definitely work.

 

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