M9 Ultimate Sensor Cleaning Device

[menos I M6]

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I found it more inconvenient to source lab grade alcohol than just going over to a camera shop and buying a big bottle of Eclipse E2, which lasts me easy over a year with a D3, R-D1 and M8.2 for under 10,- EUR.

 

I bought a set of sensor swabs once (the smallest package for having some nice spatulas) and use pec pads wrapped around them instead of buying into the overpriced FUD packages.

 

If I could have sourced nice fitting spatulas, I would have also skipped the sensor swap package.

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[SJP]

Sure don't want to mess anyone up chemistry wise, but as a (ex) chemist the formulas are:

 

Methanol -- CH4O

Ethanol (the drinking stuff) -- C2H6O

Isopropyl alcohol (aka Isopropanol) -- C3H8O

<snip>

The notation I was attempting to use is "SMILES", added the H's which is incorrect

How it works, left SMILES shorthand, right full formula

O => H2O

C => CH4

CC => H3C-CH3

CCO => H3C-CH2-OH (Ethanol = C2H6O)

CC(O)C => H3C-CHOH-CH3 (Isopropyl alcohol = C3H8O, "Iso" means OH on central carbon)

 

See wikipedia and SMILES => molecular structure utility I don't use it on a daily basis but it is a nice mental exercise, try this one in the utilty:

CC(=O)NCCC1=CNc2c1cc(OC)cc2

(copied from Wikepedia I am not smart enough to figure this one out)

[scc]

This thread has become very useful for me in the last 2 hours - as I was cleaning my sensor earlier, an eyelash dropped onto it. I used the blower to remove it but now there is a greasy mark where it was left - the horror !

 

I'll try VDust Plus with the visible dust swab, as soon as I can get some, its looking like next week though ... grrr !

 

Will report back

[scc]

So I called Leica today to ask them for cleaning recommendations.

They have none.

 

They suggested getting it professionally cleaned, I asked where, and they said the options were send it to Solms, or get it done at a local place (and they couldn't suggest anywhere in particular). I found it curious that there is no recommended practice here.

 

I called RG Lewis - they said "definitely don't clean the sensor yourself, you will ruin it". Quite emphatic about this actually.

 

I then called RedDot - they said do a wet clean with sensor swabs and fluid.

Calumet offered to clean it, as did Fixation UK.

Interestingly Fixation has a pdf about how to clean a sensor on their website. The tech's I spoke to suggested that all they do is use sensor swabs (either VD or the Eclipse ones) and some fluid.

 

So much conflicting information.

 

I have some Orange VD swabs and some VDust Plus fluid on the way. Hard to find, in the end I bought off amazon. Most places I called have no stock of any full size sensor swabs.We'll see what happens !

 

Has anyone used a 1.3 or 1.6x swab on a full size sensor? I have such a small focal area I need to clean, it seems silly to wipe the entire sensor . .. .

[menos I M6]

So I called Leica today to ask them for cleaning recommendations.

They have none.

 

…

I called RG Lewis - they said "definitely don't clean the sensor yourself, you will ruin it". Quite emphatic about this actually.

…

 

This is generally FUD by companies/ spokespersons, who offer servicing/ cleaning of cameras and want to scare customers from either taking away good business (as sensor cleaning is really easy and quick work in the right conditions with the right tools) or preventing from customers from making things worse and ruining cameras (most people are not mechanically inclined with good sense for technical handling of sensitive equipment).

 

Most of the camera shops, I asked do not sell sensor cleaning products, especially wet cleaning products. Interestingly, I got a few employees to talk about reasons and mostly were educated about big troubles, they had in the past with customers, complaining about the products not working or worse, the product (go figure!) damaging their expensive camera.

 

The control and judgement of how well capable a customer is to handle a cleaning procedure and understand the needed working conditions is vastly impossible (dust free environment, technical basis of preparing the camera for the job - charged battery, Mup modes/ cleaning modes/ bulb, …).

 

The easiest way to learn this/ start to clean by yourself is, to read some practical advises (I found Thom Hogans advices on sensor cleaning a very good all around summary) and to start with a all in one sensor kit first (mostly overpriced).

 

Later after having a handle, one can source the material in a cheaper fashion (swabs, pads,…).

[cliffp]

I agree with Menos M6. My local camera shop (London Camera Exchange) offers a £40 sensor cleaning service. They are bound to take a significant cut of this fee and the staff have told me they get their sensors cleaned free of charge. You also have to be careful about giving advice to people about something as critical as this - there is a huge variation in competence, dexterity, common sense, prior knowledge of cleaning in general, strength of materials etc etc. It is much safer as a dealer (who have enough hassle already with customers damaging equipment through inexperience) to advise their clients to seek professional help.

[scc]

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Got the orange VD swabs and VDplus solution today.

 

My sensor is now pristine clean.

 

A few comments though:

Under magnification, the orange VD swabs had a few long strands coming off the edge, I trimmed them off, and nothing seemed to come free on the sensor.

The swab is slightly wider than shutters aperture, so you kinda have to push it past that before it contacts with the sensor.

After the first swab, I was left with a few smears from the fluid. A second swab got rid of these.

I think the problem with the first one was it was too wet, and my sweep was slightly too slow and jerky.

 

I would recommend the above combo though, worked a treat for me.

[chrism]

It probably says something about me, but I only handle VD swabs with rubber gloves on!

 

Chris

[k-hawinkler]

My M9 really needed cleaning again. Here are the things I tried today and my observations:

 

1.) Giotto Rocketblower, didn't help.

2.) Visible Dust Swab and Eclipse e2, moves the crud systematically in one direction but doesn't remove it.

3.) VisibleDust Brush, randomly distributes the crud, didn't help.

4.) Dust-Aid Platinum, didn't remove the crud, didn't help

5.) dlc SensorVu Cleaner Set for CCD/CMOS, removed the crud beautifully.

In conclusion, in the future I will use these two things until I run out of E2:

 

• Visible Dust Swab and Eclipse E2 for cleaning oil spots and moving crud to a sensor area where it can easily be picked up.

• dlc SensorVu Cleaner Set for CCD/CMOS to remove the crud.

 

BTW, SensorVu has a straightedge at one side, is beveled on the other and has slightly rounded corners. I had no problem picking up crud along sensor edges as well.

I believe SensorVu is the product that was being used in the Leica factory tour video clip.

[thrice]

BTW, SensorVu has a straightedge at one side, is beveled on the other and has slightly rounded corners. I had no problem picking up crud along sensor edges as well.

I believe SensorVu is the product that was being used in the Leica factory tour video clip.

 

I agree, it's the same as the Pentax O-ICK1 I use, much better than using swabs and fluid for actually REMOVING spots, the brushes and everything else just move the dust around, I can understand using them but only to remove oil.

[viramati]

I got my swabs and fluid from fixation in London and after a couple of attempts all came up clean. I really didn't find it that difficult though the first time you do it is a bit of a nerve racking experience. So if you are of a nervous disposition it might be worth while paying someone else to do it

[Bo_Lorentzen]

K-H,

 

interesting about the dust-aid, I have both sticks, and would agree that the orange blob does a better job, yet I have routinely managed to clean my sensor with the dust-aid also, Im not saying it was cleaned to perfection, but that nothing showed up in my pictures after massaging the chip for a minute or so with the dust-aid.

 

Not calling DustAid perfect, just want to point out that for street use it seems to do the job at least for me, and I like the little case better than the top-hat on the other one, it seems more protected in my camera bag, Ideally I would want the orange thingie in a tube with a screw-lid so it would be protected and dust-free until needed.

 

.

[k-hawinkler]

K-H,

 

interesting about the dust-aid, I have both sticks, and would agree that the orange blob does a better job, yet I have routinely managed to clean my sensor with the dust-aid also, Im not saying it was cleaned to perfection, but that nothing showed up in my pictures after massaging the chip for a minute or so with the dust-aid.

 

Not calling DustAid perfect, just want to point out that for street use it seems to do the job at least for me, and I like the little case better than the top-hat on the other one, it seems more protected in my camera bag, Ideally I would want the orange thingie in a tube with a screw-lid so it would be protected and dust-free until needed.

 

.

 

Bo,

 

I don't have a problem with your description. I agree, in comparison, the orange blob is quite a bit more effective in removing stuff. Upon reflection, I probably put too much pressure on the swab with E2 and left a lot of new crud on the sensor. Luckily, with the orange blob, I finally could get it all off. Next time I will be much more gentle with the wet cleaning and see what happens.

 

Thanks, K-H.

[hoppyman]

Well we do know what was used at Solms (from the Michael Reichmann video) when the cameras are assembled and tested, being a tiny vacuum pickup, the orange blob thingie and isopropyl alcohol on a cotton swab. They quote 97% as the grade for the isopropyl alcohol.

 

I just recently cleaned my M9 sensor for only the second time as I've not had an opportunity to use it heavily. I used the Arctic Butterfly then the Visible Dust Plus fluid on their swabs. I only had the orange 1.3x size left over from my M8 kit.

 

I was alarmed to then see considerable streaking including fine lines that reminded me of scratches. Easily visible to the naked eye. The horror! I speculate that I may have caused the smears perhaps by carrying oil from touching just past the edges of the sensor with the Arctic butterfly. I also wonder if using the wrong sized swab left excess fluid at its edges that dried leaving residue too.

 

I never had any issue with these products during two years with my M8. They do also recommend different fluids for different contamination. Maybe I just never had any oily smears. I never tried their Smear away.

 

Repeated cleaning cycles did not budge them, neither did two cycles (me and then my pro Leica dealer) using the Dust Aid fluid on their Dust Wand swabs (correct size this time).

I obtained a premoistened Eclipse swab as part of a survival kit and that didn't work either.

I finally made a single pass with the standard Eclipse fluid on their size 3 swab. All of the marks were instantly removed. I cannot explain why that was instantly effective yet the premoistened swab was not.

 

Shooting a test shot at f/16 and then looking at 200% magnification on my monitor I see various tiny dust spots on the edges only and zero smears or scratches of any kind. More importantly I can't detect any defects in real world photographs.

 

Photosol state on their site that the E2 previously recommended is now discontinued and that their testing says that their E fluid cannot cause damage to any sensor if used correctly.

The E2 fluid contains methanol, hence the freight restrictions too.

Swap over to the Visible Dust site and they tell you than fluids containing methanol CAN damage your sensor seals and they do NOT recommend it.

 

Personally I'm retiring my Arctic Butterfly as well and moving to the Dust Aid tacky system to use prior to a wet clean with the E fluid and their #3 swabs.

[250swb]

After using an Arctic Butterfly, Eclipse swabs and fluid, VD swabs and fluid, and Dust Aid over the past months I have narrowed down the most effect combo as any fluid or swab, followed by Dust Aid sticky pad.

 

The Arctic Butterfly just shifts dust around, and if the bristles stray off the glass (heaven forbid you may want to clean in the corners!) it is just as likely it will drag oil back onto the glass. VD fluid seems to cause smears, but is better than Eclipse fluid at removing the oil the Arctic Butterfly has spread all over the place. VD's narrow corner swabs are good at cleaning in the crevices.

 

So once any sticky dust or oil has been removed I now use the Dust Aid system. Its the only thing I've tried where if I identify a speck of dust I have a chance of removing it rather than just moving it around. Its not perfect and needs a few goes to rid the sensor of dust. If I could now identify a type of sticky tape to substitute for the expensive and small Dust Aid cleaning strips its as near to being an 'adequate' cleaning regime as could be.

 

Steve

[wlaidlaw]

In theory a sticky product like Dust Aid may be the way to go but I will never trust them again. While lifting one off its backing pad with the wand, the sticky pad split across the foam filling. Imagine if that happened when you were lifting it off your sensor. When the shutter closes, with the battery running out, you would wreck the shutter and maybe the sensor as well. I sent them back and was told it was a faulty batch. I opted for a refund rather than a replacement!

 

I often find it takes three or four wet cleans to get my sensor clean. The M9 is much more difficult than the M8 as there is far less clearance to the shutter edges. I now use VD corner swabs to reach into the corners. It is an expensive business. I tried remaking the wands with Pec Pads but they were not as good as the original VD swabs.

 

Wilson

[diogenis]

Wilson, what I hate with the swabs, is the fact that one has to drag them around the glass. This is safe enough when you have softer than the glass materials, but what if you have a metal particle on the loose on that sensor glass? This is where VD platinum or the Orange blob is superior: you just lift and clean the surface, no drag/scratches

[wlaidlaw]

Diogenis,

 

I know just what you mean but in three years of cleaning my M8 - no scratches. I use a Rocket Blower first, then an Arctic Butterfly 726 and only finally a wet clean. I presume you mean the Dust Aid Platinum. Sorry from experience above, I will never again use Dust Aid products. I might get the VD Plus ionising blower, as there have been stories of the Rocket blowers disintegrating and blowing rubber particles into the chamber.

 

Wilson

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[larryk34]

How does this compare to scanned film? Seriously, how clean does the sensor have to be to render adequate, if not flawless looking images in photoshop or on a print? You may be trying to clean it perfectly--why else use a microscope to make sure nothing is there-rather than enough to produce what look like dust-free images. So, how well does it have to be cleaned? Reminds me a bit of the hunt for the highest resolution lens and perfect color rendition. Then you look at published photogaphs and discover that the latest trend is blurred, poor resolution images with extreme color saturation. Go figure.

[250swb]

How does this compare to scanned film? Seriously, how clean does the sensor have to be to render adequate, if not flawless looking images in photoshop or on a print? You may be trying to clean it perfectly--why else use a microscope to make sure nothing is there-rather than enough to produce what look like dust-free images. So, how well does it have to be cleaned? Reminds me a bit of the hunt for the highest resolution lens and perfect color rendition. Then you look at published photogaphs and discover that the latest trend is blurred, poor resolution images with extreme color saturation. Go figure.

 

It has to be clean enough.

 

If you shoot all the time at f1.4 you could probably have a dustbin full of rubbish on your sensor and it wouldn't show up. But if you anticipate using smaller apertures for increased DOF, say f11 up, then the sensor does need to be clean, or you need to have a lot of patience in Photoshop cloning it out. As the aperture gets smaller the contrast of the dust on the glass that protects the sensor is exaggerated, so to cover all circumstances the sensor does need cleaning, and if you are going to do it you may as well do it properly.

 

Steve