sshakari Posted February 3, 2010 Share #1 Posted February 3, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Newb - just getting into film. Love the Tri-X photo, which is what got me into film. What does it mean when I see "Kodak Tri-x 400 @1600"? does that mean the camera ISO is set at 1600 or film was processed at some other way. thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 3, 2010 Posted February 3, 2010 Hi sshakari, Take a look here Tri-X x400 @1600, question?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Austinite Posted February 3, 2010 Share #2 Posted February 3, 2010 Both actually. Yes you set the camera (or meter) to give you a reading @1600 ISO using 400 Tri-x. You will then push the development using longer times and (or) developers that are formulated for pushing. Personally I use Acufine for that but others will have different suggestions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshakari Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share #3 Posted February 3, 2010 tks. if I take it to Walgreens would they know what to do? Both actually. Yes you set the camera (or meter) to give you a reading @1600 ISO using 400 Tri-x. You will then push the development using longer times and (or) developers that are formulated for pushing. Personally I use Acufine for that but others will have different suggestions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stealthman_1 Posted February 3, 2010 Share #4 Posted February 3, 2010 tks. if I take it to Walgreens would they know what to do? About as likely as Walgreens carrying an M9. You would either have to process the film yourself (not hard) or have a photo lab who actually develops true black and white film (vs. C41 B&W like Ilford XP2 or Kodak BW400CN which Walgreens can develop) do it and likely they will charge extra. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted February 3, 2010 Share #5 Posted February 3, 2010 It might be worth to read the data sheet, especially pages 6 and 7 for more information: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf Personally, I prefer to use films rated for the desired speed (Fuji Neopan at 1600 worked good for me, I have a P3200Tmax in my "to develop" shelf) rather than pushing slower films. I would expect Tri-X to show pretty strong grain, when pushed by two stops. My advice would be to expose one test roll, also to calibrate the process, when developing yourself. Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshakari Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share #6 Posted February 3, 2010 Thanks for the link. Used youtube and found more answers. Now it all makes sense. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
batmobile Posted February 3, 2010 Share #7 Posted February 3, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) It might be worth to read the data sheet, especially pages 6 and 7 for more information:http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf Personally, I prefer to use films rated for the desired speed (Fuji Neopan at 1600 worked good for me, I have a P3200Tmax in my "to develop" shelf) rather than pushing slower films. I would expect Tri-X to show pretty strong grain, when pushed by two stops. My advice would be to expose one test roll, also to calibrate the process, when developing yourself. Stefan So do I, but N1600 is not really a 1600 film. It makes no more than a stop over Neopan 400, so 800 at best. I rate N400 at 250-320 and the 1600 at 500-640 for 'real speed'. D3200 makes about 1000-1200 in real speed and (tho I have not tried it) Tmax 3200 about 800-1000 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 3, 2010 Share #8 Posted February 3, 2010 Hi Suggest you need to go to local camera club and confess to be a film user who needs all the dark room equipment. It will then magically appear at next meeting, normally for free. You don't need a darkroom merely the will to persevere. Even the people who have gone digital will help you with problems. You will probably get an enlarger (or several) and trays for wet printng for free as well but will need a scanner, for normal use, the latter you probably will need to buy. You can get out of date cine film and load cassettes to really reduce running costs. The quality of own processing is much higher. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsrockit Posted February 3, 2010 Share #9 Posted February 3, 2010 Pushing is relatively cheap... I paid $1.00 per stop recently at an NYC lab. I pushed tri-x to 1600 (2 stops) and it looked great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshakari Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share #10 Posted February 3, 2010 thanks to everyone.... I have chosen to try and develop my self. Placed an order for: Kodak Rapid Fixer to Make 1 Gallon Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. Heico Perma Wash 1 Quart Paterson Universal Film Developing Tank with 1 Reel Paterson Developing Tank Reel Arista Changing Bag 27 in. x 30 in. Acufine Diafine Film Developer to make 1 gal. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted February 4, 2010 Share #11 Posted February 4, 2010 Got a thermometer? Some film hanging clips will make life easer too. You will also need some sort of measuring cylinder accurate in the 10-100ml range for diluting your stock acufine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted February 4, 2010 Share #12 Posted February 4, 2010 You can skip the film clips - I use paperclips, that I bend in a way, that they have one hole for hanging them in my shower and two hooks in the wide of the sprocket holes of the film. I hook one bend paperclip on each end of the film and a small weight on the bottom. You can not have enough storage/ mixing/ measuring bottles! Nothing is more disturbing than ending up with one measuring bottle too less and washing them in between measuring different chemicals. If you have an iPhone/ ipod touch - consider buying the massive development chart app from the app store. It is very little money, but it gives you a huge database of all important combinations of films, developers and ISO speeds + a timer, to count down your development times. You can even save your customized times with notes! This little app helped me a lot with my first rolls of TX400, which I developed from the beginning @ ISO3200. I have half a dozen rolls sitting in the fridge, that I shot @ ISO6400, which I have to do soon ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshakari Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share #13 Posted February 4, 2010 Thanks for all the input. Thermometer - bought it. Now all the mixing bottles and cups I am getting at the store today or tomorrow. Have to get replacement batteries and clips..... Just got the camera today. Loaded film and will finish the roll by end of day. My developer and other stuff will not be here for couple of days. Not sure about dust free area for drying - the shower sounds good. Is it ok to dry film with a hair dryer? iPhone app sounds good, I'll have to use my wifes. ISO3200??? my first roll is going to be at 400. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted February 5, 2010 Share #14 Posted February 5, 2010 I'm a bit concerned about the hair dryer. I haven't tried it myself but would suggest to try it first on something like the exposed first part of the film, if at all. The film might wrinkle, and manually wrinkled film will never straighten itself again, I suspect, it will be thermoplastic as well... My gut feeling is "better not"... Have lots of fun with your first development Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twittle Posted February 5, 2010 Share #15 Posted February 5, 2010 Maybe it would be okay if the hairdryer's heat coil can be turned off. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted February 5, 2010 Share #16 Posted February 5, 2010 Possibly. Regardless if scanning or enlarging, the film should be as flat as possible. I would also be concerned about dust being blown on the film... Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted February 5, 2010 Share #17 Posted February 5, 2010 Hang the film to dry in a room that is as dust free as you can find and one where people do not walk past all the time. It will take a couple of hours to dry depending of the temperature - I usually leave mine over night. It is important to let the emulsion harden to avoid scratches. I would not us a hair dryer to blow air over the film, the risk of dust sticking to the whet emulsion is too great. Good luck and have fun! Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted February 5, 2010 Share #18 Posted February 5, 2010 This post will get response of horror... I run the shower on hot in bathroom to kill some of the dust. Rinse the film in a final solution of photoflow, clip end to shower rail, unwind film for Patterson spool, and squeegee in situ. The film dries quicker after a squeegee, and with a lower risk of drying marks. I only develop last thing at night and in am I have a reasonably dust free dry and hard neg strip to be cut and filed. Not noticed a scratch yet. I live in a soft water area, never descale kettle. Most people will need a photo flow + dionised water final rinse Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshakari Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share #19 Posted February 11, 2010 I shot Tri-X @ 400 and developed it using Diafine. Everything went well. I dried it in the bathroom as per instructions here without the hair dryer. Used Photo Flo and dried just fine. I do not have a scanner and have not been able to see the pics. Wondering if shooting @ 400 ISO and developing in Diafine will leave images overexposed as they were not shot at 1600 ISO? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sshakari Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share #20 Posted February 11, 2010 I found the answers in other threads on the forum, duh. No wonder no one replied.....Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.