Look, frame and click

[Annibale G.]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hello,

I've seen recently some works in photojournalism where obviously the photographer didn't focus on subject, no time to do that. Good jobs I can say.

I think in this kind of pictures camera and lenses are pre-selected on focus distance.

Do you know some technique to do that? How can I work in this way? Maybe with hyperfocal distance?

Thanks

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[earleygallery]

Yes, hyperfocal method of focussing, i.e. with a 35mm lens, use an aperture of f8 and set the focus to about 2 or 3 meters and you will get most 'street' subjects in focus.

 

The 25mm Snapshot Skopar has 3 click stop focus points and it works very well although being a wider lens one needs to be that much closer to the action as it were.

 

You can of course also set the focus distance by the scale on the lens as a 'guesstimate' before bringing the camera to your eye.

[Jeff S]

Another reason to subscribe (small annual fee) to Sean's site...Welcome to ReidReviews

 

He recently posted a short essay on zone focusing.

 

These forums are full of posts recommending this site as one of the best for camera and lens reviews. But, I find the essays...both technical and general art and photography...to be among the best parts of the site.

 

Jeff

[alun]

Annibale,

 

You need to experiment with what will work for you -- given what you shoot, the distance you like to work at, the lens/lenses you use etc.

 

As James said (above) a 35mm lens provides adequate depth of filed to use either hyperfocal distance or approxmatescale-focusing techniques and I ten to do just as he described -- f8, lens at about 10 feet. This gives me the greatest chance of being ready.

 

Alternatively, if I'm waiting for something to happen or for a scene to "fall into place" I may pre-focus (using scale focusing) for that and just shoot away when things look promising. I can't do this with a 50mm, however.

 

With a 28mm lens it's even easier -- if you use fast film (800 ASA) you can probably squeeze f11 at 125th or 250th out of most good lighting conditions and then you barely need to touch the focusing. But (also as James says) you do need to work closer in order to fill the frame and especially the foreground.

[budrichard]

In my expereince zone focusing is not as cracked up as some say it is. I focus even with a 21mm f2.8 ASPH Leica and my venerable 24mm Nikkor of which i am on my second. I find I want a particular point or area to be in focus and zone focusing does not always give the best results. Since I use a pair of M7's or now a Nikon Fm3a, its easier and faster since I don't have to fiddle with the shutter dial. I suppose if i used a manual exposure meter and non-AUTO shutter, then using zone focusing would make things easier and speed things up as all I would concern myself with was exposure. -Dick

[Jeff S]

I find I want a particular point or area to be in focus and zone focusing does not always give the best results.

 

That is why I prefer Sean Reid's method for zone focus.

 

Jeff

[Xmas]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Hi

 

First you need to alter the title to

 

anticipate, click, wind, frame click

 

Experience will tell you that the 2nd click will be a retrospect, and the first may have been too early...

 

Anticipate is difficult, but that is what you need.

 

Use 800 ASA e.g. XP2 or the fuji color 1/125 f/8-11 if your meter allows

 

set 5cm to 10 feet

3.5cm to 8 feet

2.8 to 6 feet

 

for trial, expect to get one people like per 100 frames for a long while, unless you can do the anticipate well.

 

The Japanese tourists are the best subjects, e.g. outside a tube station where they need to get situation awareness, they just done seem to see you, as they sort out the street sign names...

 

Noel

[elansprint72]

Nikon D700.

[andybarton]

What about the Nikon D700?

[chris_livsey]

What about the Nikon D700?

 

I think he's trying to get the OP to buy one just before the new model comes out which is not good advice

[Xmas]

Hi

 

I'd suggest instead a silent camera e.g. Retina IIIs, or Leica M, but even a Canon P is ok in city streets. (The P is noisier then a M.)

 

If you want immediacy with a 28mm then you need to be in close.

 

Noel