jjonsalt Posted January 22, 2010 Share #1 Posted January 22, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) 6-bit code, important or not? If important would it be good to pay for the update? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 22, 2010 Posted January 22, 2010 Hi jjonsalt, Take a look here 6-bit code. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
stunsworth Posted January 23, 2010 Share #2 Posted January 23, 2010 The wider the lens, the more important it becomes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted January 23, 2010 Share #3 Posted January 23, 2010 Only if you are shooting digital, and if you are try, hand coding them. If you see a difference, you will be able to make an informed choice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbbeyPhoto Posted January 24, 2010 Share #4 Posted January 24, 2010 I've been wondering about this too, having just acquired an old 28mm The wider the lens, the more important it becomes. Why? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 25, 2010 Share #5 Posted January 25, 2010 I've been wondering about this too, having just acquired an old 28mm Why? Because it allows M8 firmware to correct the side effect of the UVIR filter ("cyan drift") at the edges and corners : this is much more significant for wideangles, for it's due to the angles at which light crosses the UVIR glass - higher for wideangles. Around 50 mm and over is not significant. BTW... if the 28 you acquired is really "old" (first series of Elmarits) can be that coding is impossible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ecar Posted January 25, 2010 Share #6 Posted January 25, 2010 Yes, it is important for lenses which focal length is 35mm and below. Above 35mm, the impact on IQ is marginal, and the main thing you'll be missing is the lens data in the file exif. Whether you want to pay for it or not is your choice: alternatives include DYI (there have been numerous threads on this forum on how to do it) and a small application called Cornerfix, developed by a forum member. A quick forum search should return plenty of hits and you should be able to make an informed decision. FWIW, I had all my Leica lenses coded by Leica and hand-coded all my CV lenses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbbeyPhoto Posted January 25, 2010 Share #7 Posted January 25, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Because it allows M8 firmware to correct the side effect of the UVIR filter ("cyan drift") at the edges and corners : this is much more significant for wideangles, for it's due to the angles at which light crosses the UVIR glass - higher for wideangles. Around 50 mm and over is not significant.. Thanks for the info. Does the correction get applied if you shoot RAW, or just on JPEG files? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luigi bertolotti Posted January 25, 2010 Share #8 Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks for the info. Does the correction get applied if you shoot RAW, or just on JPEG files? It's a in-camera processing before writing the file, be it a RAW (DNG) or a JPG or both (when in RAW+JPG mode). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbbeyPhoto Posted January 25, 2010 Share #9 Posted January 25, 2010 Thanks, best get it coded then. I like the DIY option, I'll give that a go I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #10 Posted January 25, 2010 The downside is that the ink will rub off pretty soon. You could make your own indentations , but sending the lens to one of the various camera technicians that offer this service is better and not that expensive. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leica_m4p Posted January 25, 2010 Share #11 Posted January 25, 2010 I can really appreciate the difference this might make on an M9, but with the M8 effectively cropping out the edges of the image anyway, does it really make a big difference? Has anyone actually got examples of original then coded images taken for comparison? I'd be really interested to see some. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #12 Posted January 25, 2010 On the M8 it is far more important, as it will correct for the sometimes extreme cyan drift towards the corners of the image, induced by the IR filter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leica_m4p Posted January 25, 2010 Share #13 Posted January 25, 2010 Oh I see. Thanks for the response. As I understand it the IR filter is necessary, particularly, to stop black synthetic fabrics from showing up as a dark red. Presumably the IR filter wouldn't be required if B&W images were what was wanted? Thanks again, jc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted January 25, 2010 Share #14 Posted January 25, 2010 It has been discussed before - it is not just blacks. Colours are off all over the spectrum, most noticeable chlorophyl (green foliage) and heamoglobin (caucasian skin) In B&W it will lighten up the shadows, which may be benificial, and in all cases there will be a very small loss of shapness. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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