jjjjuin Posted November 5, 2009 Share #1 Posted November 5, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) this might be a novice question. We know for 24mm 21mm, those wide angle lens, we need to gear a viewfinder on top of the camera. So, how does this tiny stuff know whether my lens is focused correctly? I believe there's no any technical connection between camera and viewfinder huh? I understand the theory of the buit-in viewfinder which we turning the lens then will effect the two images merge together though.. any explaination with pictures will be appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 5, 2009 Posted November 5, 2009 Hi jjjjuin, Take a look here I still cannot understand one thing, HELP!. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jaapv Posted November 5, 2009 Share #2 Posted November 5, 2009 Simple - the add-on viewfinder cannot be used for focussing. You use the camera viewfinder for that, and the top one for framing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebelfocus Posted November 5, 2009 Share #3 Posted November 5, 2009 this might be a novice question. We know for 24mm 21mm, those wide angle lens, we need to gear a viewfinder on top of the camera. So, how does this tiny stuff know whether my lens is focused correctly? I believe there's no any technical connection between camera and viewfinder huh? I understand the theory of the buit-in viewfinder which we turning the lens then will effect the two images merge together though.. any explaination with pictures will be appreciated. The viewfinder accessory would only be used from framing the shot, nothing else. You still need to use the built in viewfinder with rangefinder patch to focus, meter etc So you need to use 2 viewfinders, 1 for focusing and metering, the other for framing. Remember that wide-angle lenses give greater depth of field so depending on your f-stop and distance to subject it may not be necessary to re-focus everytime. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tashley Posted November 5, 2009 Share #4 Posted November 5, 2009 To expand on Jaap's answer - the technique is to use the camera's rangefinder viewfinder to focus (or to 'zone focus' by estimating and then setting distance on the lens barrel and stopping the lens down to increase DOF) and then use the accessory finder, mounted on the hotshoe in order to frame the scene. My preferred method is to get to know the lens and then guess the framing, so no additional viewfinder is required. You can often chimp and re-shoot if you have to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjjuin Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share #5 Posted November 5, 2009 now i see, thanks three above. Tashley, do you have any experience regarding to your frame by guess? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted November 5, 2009 Share #6 Posted November 5, 2009 Estimating the framing of your image comes with experience. You will get to know the field of view of your lenses. In time you will previsualize your image and only bring the camera to your eye to take the photograph. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjjuin Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted November 5, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) quickly come up a new question so, basically it's just for frame. Why people have so many arguements among different types of viewfinder? Are they doing really that different? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest finofoto Posted November 5, 2009 Share #8 Posted November 5, 2009 hello.. ..the same way, i proceed: especially with the rather bulky 1,4 21 one always has to guess a little bit, because it blocks about one 4th to 3rd of the finder.. but it works,... ..the other advantage: You can keep the "speed" of taking pics, without changing the perspective etc. ..working with RF cameras always depends a bit on estimation, because the viewfinder is not so accurate like a SLR finder.. ..and trying to use that very bulky multi finder is quite "difficulkt" looks nasty, is much too big, and works difficult.. so trust your imagination and make: click.. best, tom:cool: To expand on Jaap's answer - the technique is to use the camera's rangefinder viewfinder to focus (or to 'zone focus' by estimating and then setting distance on the lens barrel and stopping the lens down to increase DOF) and then use the accessory finder, mounted on the hotshoe in order to frame the scene. My preferred method is to get to know the lens and then guess the framing, so no additional viewfinder is required. You can often chimp and re-shoot if you have to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjjuin Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share #9 Posted November 5, 2009 Tom how do you like your 21mm 1.4 so far? I barely saw some pictures shoot by 21mm 1.4 on flickr. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted November 5, 2009 Share #10 Posted November 5, 2009 quickly come up a new question so, basically it's just for frame. Why people have so many arguements among different types of viewfinder? Are they doing really that different? There is some variation in quality. You can use the CV 25, ZI 24, various Leica 24 finders (notably the D-Lux 4 one) or the Leica vario one to taste. Similar for 21. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbuckley Posted November 5, 2009 Share #11 Posted November 5, 2009 quickly come up a new question so, basically it's just for frame. Why people have so many arguements among different types of viewfinder? Are they doing really that different? It's not really an argument so much as a question of whether Leica's comparatively expensive viewfinders are worth it compared to the less expensive ones. Many people will tell you second-hand viewfinders, or the Zeiss versions, are the better ticket than the really quite expensive, if excellent, Leica versions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjjjuin Posted November 5, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted November 5, 2009 Thanks Jaap and John, Just wondering how come those tiny stuff cost so much. hm. made in Germany huh. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrice Posted November 5, 2009 Share #13 Posted November 5, 2009 There is some variation in quality. You can use the CV 25, ZI 24, various Leica 24 finders (notably the D-Lux 4 one) or the Leica vario one to taste. Similar for 21. Just a quick clarification Zeiss don't make a 24mm finder as part of the new Ikon series, they make a dual-use 25/28mm finder (there is no ZM 24mm lens). This finder is exceptional in brightness and magnification. jjjjuin, if you're after a 21mm finder the Zeiss one is excellent, the Leica one almost as good but lesser magnification (with slightly less distortion and is more compact) and the Voigtlander one has noticeable barrel distortion but is still very bright has a decent magnification. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimF Posted November 5, 2009 Share #14 Posted November 5, 2009 My preferred method is to get to know the lens and then guess the framing, so no additional viewfinder is required. You can often chimp and re-shoot if you have to. Deffo. Especially at close range, which you'll need unless the subject is vast. How much parallax is there from a viewfinder a couple of centimetres above the lens? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheewai_m6 Posted November 5, 2009 Share #15 Posted November 5, 2009 Estimating the framing of your image comes with experience. You will get to know the field of view of your lenses. In time you will previsualize your image and only bring the camera to your eye to take the photograph. slightly off topic here. the comment above by jaapv has enlightened me SO much on street photography, that so many things now makes sense to me. because i'm so new to street photography, i always wondered how to take get that shot without being seen. it all makes sense now. know your lens and how wide it is, pre-focus as best you can. quite easy on my 35mm cron, the tab makes it so much easier to know the distance without looking, then just frame the shot, and click. jaapv, as simple as your comment may be, it is of great help for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted November 6, 2009 Share #16 Posted November 6, 2009 slightly off topic here. the comment above by jaapv has enlightened me SO much on street photography, that so many things now makes sense to me. because i'm so new to street photography, i always wondered how to take get that shot without being seen. it all makes sense now. know your lens and how wide it is, pre-focus as best you can. quite easy on my 35mm cron, the tab makes it so much easier to know the distance without looking, then just frame the shot, and click. jaapv, as simple as your comment may be, it is of great help for me. With practice, you'll also estimate your depth of field for each lens/aperture combination at certain distances, thus better ensuring your subject is adequately within your focus zone. The DOF markings on the lens help, but they aren't really that accurate in modern times...http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/94777-depth-field-markers-lens-barrel.html Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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