Leica IIIf given an airing

[farnz]

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I've also just acquired a IIIf and am waiting on delivery of a red scale 50mm f/3.5 Elmar. Just holding the camera and tripping its shutter gives me a lovely sense of precision engineering.

 

The vf is fine but the rf is a little dim (although just useable) so it may be time for a beam-splitter replacement or at least an Okaro perhaps.

 

Pete.

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[lars_bergquist]

This is definitely not a Leica IIIf, but a IIIc built in 1950. And it is not even original, since a synchro socket has been put on the front. No historical value at all !

 

Also spake the Collector. You know what? That camera has a history. And because of that, it is well worth preserving (and using) for what it is. For that history is also part of your history.

 

Lots of Leica screw cameras were converted to synch (sort of ... be advised that this one will probably fire an electronic flash on rewinding, too) so this is, in a way, a document of its time. Looks to be nicely done, too. And you can probably find a baseplate with better chrome. But the Pedant despises even a factory conversion.

 

He has no fun at all.

 

The old man from the Age of the IIIc

[Jaybob]

My father-in-law has a IIIf and it is a great camera, makes excellent pics. However, the rangefinder is so dark, I have to half cover the opening so I can see the projected image to align. I think we may have to send it in for service, but it really is a beautiful piece of history.

 

 

What a great serial # as well!

[jcrutcher]

Question for iiif experts. since the shutter speeds are not today's standards what does everyone use?

 

Example

 

50 60?

75 90?

100 125?

200 180 or 250?

 

 

I've been compensating with the lens opening but not sure if there is a need or better way.

thanks

Jim

[iShutterbug]

I had the same concern with my LTMs--and all old cameras and view camera shutter/lens combos.

 

The way I look at it is there're three interrelated variables we're dealing with: Exposure meter accuracy, accuracy of actual shutter speeds of the camera, and latitude of the film used.

 

In the field you want to be ready to take the shot as fast as you can, so your solution must be easy, easy to remember in the heat of the photo situation, and logical so your mind can dwell on other photo concerns sure you've got exposure covered (not having to remember to tweak the f/stop at certain speeds for example).

 

It worked out I simply use the interpolation of old vs. new shutter speeds you show above (with 200=250). I shoot exclusively color negative film and have had all my LTMs CLAd so their shutter speeds are within factory tolerances.

 

But to know for sure you need to narrow down those variables and devote a roll of film to test representative shutter speeds and f/stops, checking density of each exposure and adjusting accordingly.

 

For instance, before my IIIf was CLAd its shutter speeds were uniformly somewhat slower than indicated on the dial so my quick and easy and "logical" solution was to simply increase the ISO setting two clicks on my exposure meter (in this case Kodak and Fuji Pro 160 film from ISO 160 to 250) to give me the negative density and color information I wanted (for scanning). Your film and mileage may vary.

 

Don