clinn Posted September 2, 2011 Share #1 Posted September 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi does anybody experienced white paint fallen apart from digits/letters of Leica M9? I've found the '1' of '1000' on the shutter dial of my M9 -purchased in april 2010 and very lightly used- no more white filled, only carved wrote this morning to Leica and the Dealer here in Rome/Italy. The Dealer already called me to support. Waiting for an answer from Leica. I'm afraid all those white digits and letters will jump away If anyone experienced the same, please tell me, it may help with Leica guys. Thanks PS: for all other aspects the camera is FANTASTIC!!! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 2, 2011 Posted September 2, 2011 Hi clinn, Take a look here M9 - Paint Failure. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
ho_co Posted September 2, 2011 Share #2 Posted September 2, 2011 There have been reports here of paint coming off various cameras and lenses. There was a report of part of the paint coming out of the "8" in "M8," if I recall correctly. Several people (including me) have reported the paint coming off the lens engravings (focus and zoom rings) of the Digilux 2. Not common, but not rare. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
likalar Posted September 2, 2011 Share #3 Posted September 2, 2011 Here's a missing white paint thread: Larry http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/169371-part-my-m-missing.html 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LotharZhou Posted September 2, 2011 Share #4 Posted September 2, 2011 the early batch of M8, the engraved M8 letters are shallower than the Later ones, I made a comparism between the two different M8s. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted September 2, 2011 Share #5 Posted September 2, 2011 Not on the M9, but on some M4s and it never bothered me a bit. I refill the missing paint on my own when I have a moment. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted September 2, 2011 Share #6 Posted September 2, 2011 All it takes to assure that the paint will adhere properly in the engravings is a quick wipe with alcohol or other mild solvent that evaporates quickly and without residue, prior to applying the paint fill. If the worker doing it happens to be behind schedule,not feeling well, hung-over, had a fight with their significant-other that morning, ticked-off at the boss, thinking about how boring their job is and how they're not getting paid enough...or any of a host of other distractions...then it's easy to skip that step or do it sloppily, and this is the result. Sadly, that's the reality of any industry or profession today where people are employed to do tasks. The concept of "work ethic" has been redefined in the same way "fiancee" now refers to a person someone is shacking-up with indefinitely as opposed to soon will marry I myself would not relinquish a camera for the typical protracted repair vacation Leica requires, just to re-fill engravings. It's not terribly difficult. Alcohol and Q-tips, Testor's flat white model car/airplane paint, and a tiny brush is all that is needed. On anodized or plated surfaces, fill the engraving in two stages (more for the deeper "Leica" and "M*" in front. Wipe away residue with a Q-tip or finger before it's dry. On painted surfaces like the newer bodies, I suggest carefully applying a thin film of vaseline around the outside of the engraving so any overspill will not adhere. A pair of hobby magnifying loupes is highly advantageous here. Of course, all this with the caveat that one needs to honestly assess one's manual dexterity. It's not brain surgery, but patience and a steady hand are required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuananh Posted September 2, 2011 Share #7 Posted September 2, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) The white paint of the number "4" on my Leica M9's shutter dial fell off a few weeks after the purchase of the camera in early 2010. I shipped it back to Leica and they replaced the dial for me at no charge. Hope that helps! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 2, 2011 Share #8 Posted September 2, 2011 If anybody wants to do it themselves just buy a paint stick that is specifically made to fill engravings with paint. Rub it over the missing section, wipe off the excess with a soft cloth and its done as neatly as a factory finish. Do not use enamel hobby paints, they yellow over time and you won't get a factory style finish no matter how hard you try. Markal: Product Detail - Lacquer-Stik® - Highlighter Fill-in Paint Steve 6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted September 2, 2011 Share #9 Posted September 2, 2011 The person who told me to use Testor's model paint was DAG. He said that's how he does it and he was trained by Leica. He said the lacquer sticks are easier and faster but it doesn't actually cure and finger oils will dissolve it. I know that the guy who owned the camera store in my town used to refresh lens markings with the laquer sticks and said it was ok but wore off fairly quick if it was somewhere that got touched frequently. I never used it myself, the word of 2 professionals was good enough for me. As for the yellowing, I repainted the Leica M6 engravings on the front in 1994 with Testor's enamel and it still hadn't yellowed by the time I sold it in 2007, but you may be right. It was only 13 years after all...the blink of an eye in the life of a Leica 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 3, 2011 Share #10 Posted September 3, 2011 I can confirm finger oils are a solvent for the paint Leica uses. A DMR will lose most of its white lettering in tropical conditions Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 3, 2011 Share #11 Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) Are you sure its natural finger oils Jaap, I know some brands of suntan oil strip lacquer based paint, as do some brands of aftershave. Steve Edited September 3, 2011 by 250swb Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 3, 2011 Share #12 Posted September 3, 2011 The person who told me to use Testor's model paint was DAG. He said that's how he does it and he was trained by Leica. He said the lacquer sticks are easier and faster but it doesn't actually cure and finger oils will dissolve it. I know that the guy who owned the camera store in my town used to refresh lens markings with the laquer sticks and said it was ok but ......... Well now you have met a professional that deals with far more paint than a guy who repairs cameras or a guy in the camera shop. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 3, 2011 Share #13 Posted September 3, 2011 Are you sure its natural finger oils Jaap, I know some brands of suntan oil strip lacquer based paint, as do some brands of aftershave. Steve Yes, I know it is stupid, but I don't use much suntan in the bush, and you learn to keep your hands clean of such chemicals. Insectrepellant DEET is the worst and will even destroy plastic like sunglasses. And that I do use. In this case it is clearly sweaty hands. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted September 3, 2011 Share #14 Posted September 3, 2011 Is it the DEET or the base solvent that they use in the repellent? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted September 3, 2011 Share #15 Posted September 3, 2011 Seems to be the base solvent. Its also a problem that can crop up with classic guitars painted in cellulose, 'products' can attack the finish. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
clinn Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share #16 Posted September 3, 2011 Tanks everybody glad to know Leica fixes it for free. A bit concerned with timing; it seems that Leica does nothing in less than 3 months It will be the occasion to stress my Bessa R4M Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bocaburger Posted September 3, 2011 Share #17 Posted September 3, 2011 The worst paint? IMO it's the soft-touch finish paint they've been using on the plastic trim in automobile interiors for the last decade or so. After a few years it peels off at the slightest provocation like an inadvertent touch with a fingernail while turning a switch or adjusting a vent. We have two high-end German autos and the interiors have turned to look like real crap in a short time. True it's pretty hot where we are, but still... Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted September 3, 2011 Share #18 Posted September 3, 2011 (edited) It is a lot faster and cleaner to use a paint stick. Sure, it takes weeks to perfectly cure but is still rugged until it does. I used to do hand pin-striping on motorcycles and bicycles. I used auto paint with no accelerator or hardening agent. I have one done in 1988 in which the paint is still good. Rugged. Hard. Edited September 3, 2011 by pico Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted September 12, 2011 Share #19 Posted September 12, 2011 Here is what is the situation with my M8.2 and new M9: M8.2, bought second hand in very nice user condition with bottom plate edges and two edges of the top deck showing brassing, when bought more than a year ago. Then all white lettering was fully intact. Now after more than a year of daily use, the M8.2 shows heavy brassing on edges, all around - all white lettering is fully intact, not one bit is missing (except the white "M8" inscription, which I removed on purpose, when bought). My M9 from recent production, bought new in June 2011, shows missing white paint of letters around the LCD above all buttons. At this point though, I could care less, as I basically know which buttons do what and rarely twiddle with the menues. Exceptions are: - format SD card - change ISO - change lens settings (doing this less and less, as this is in fact annoying stuff) Did I mention, that the missing battery meter on top is very annoying with the M9? I constantly forget, to check battery level through the menu, running out of juice in stupid situations. THIS is annoying, missing paint is normal wear on a camera, that is used. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted September 12, 2011 Share #20 Posted September 12, 2011 (edited) Running out of power is annoying and I'm quite capable of doing it on an M8 as well. it is good to know that switching the camera on again and hitting the set button when the low battery message appears will get you a few more shots, often enough to tide you over until you find time to swop batteries. Edited September 12, 2011 by jaapv 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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