Jump to content

Film cut for IIIf


Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I know that I must cut the film, before insert it into the IIIf camera. I know it and I ever do it, but I don't know why is necessary.

 

What can happen if you mount a standart film into de camera, without the pre-cut? :confused:

Link to post
Share on other sites

Not trimming the film to the correct template risks damaging the shutter. All 35mm commercial film loads had the correct template until 1972 or so.

 

Loading film with the correct template, is slow but risk free.

 

If the film is damaged and debris enters the shutter area, then the shutter may need to be replaced, the shutter is very reliable otherwise.

 

You need to carry a small pair of scissors and carefully cut the template to the 22 or 23 hole. People who suggest otherwise will not pay for a consequent shutter replacement.

 

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot Noel!

 

I don't have the Leica Ablon and I ever cut the film, counting the holes. Do you think that is interesting to have an Ablon?

 

Juan.

 

Hi Juan

 

I wish that someone would buy me an Ablon for my birthday, they are collectible and useful. Instead I carry a small Swiss army penknife because I still use a IIIc. I sometimes use all the FILCA I have loaded at home and need to buy commercial cassettes.

 

The Ablon is bulky to carry around, the penknife is attached to the keys of the automobile. The IIIc with a collapsible lens is very small.

 

Noel.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Juan

 

I wish that someone would buy me an Ablon for my birthday, they are collectible and useful. Instead I carry a small Swiss army penknife because I still use a IIIc. I sometimes use all the FILCA I have loaded at home and need to buy commercial cassettes.

 

The Ablon is bulky to carry around, the penknife is attached to the keys of the automobile. The IIIc with a collapsible lens is very small.

 

Noel.

Hi Noel.

 

Yes, I ever carry a small Swiss army penknife. It's small and light, as the Leica ;).

I'm sorry, but I don't understand what is "FILCA".

 

Juan.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Noel.

 

Yes, I ever carry a small Swiss army penknife. It's small and light, as the Leica ;).

I'm sorry, but I don't understand what is "FILCA".

 

Juan.

 

The early Leicas were sold before every chemist shop and camera shop stocked 35mm cassettes, by 1933 the Retina, and other 35mm cameras allowed a DIN (german standard) for 35mm cassettes.

 

Before this time you could use cine film or short lengths by loading them into a cassette yourself, you can still do this.

 

Leitz marketed a cassette for the Leica called a FILCA, instead of a felt light trap, it had two concentric cylinders each with with a slot that could be rotated so the slots coincided or not. The notch in the base plate latch -

- rotated one cylinder in the camera so the film had a free path to the pressure plate, on closing the latch and

- closed the path so it was light tight on opening the latch.

 

Suggest Google FILCA.

 

You can still get nice mono chrome cine film which has a 1955 vintage look, and load it in a FILCA in a dark room for your IIIfs.

 

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I just pre-cut films at home, with scissors. It doesn't stop me using them in another camera instead. I've never tried an ABLON but I really can't imagine that it's going to make it easier than freehand with scissors (now that I'm practiced at it!).

 

If you don't cut the film you're having to force the upper edge over the top sprockets, which might cause a jam or tear, and could end up wrecking your shutter.

 

There are other 'work arounds' but what's the point?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi James

 

Juan only wanted to know why he was trimming his leader.

 

He has just paid for a new shutter so wont want to try destroying it...

 

I thought the slope was to clear the entry under the pressure plate, but I've always used a 23 sprocket taper, so don't mind what the problem actually is, I don't want to know, I never had a problem with Barnacks (Including Zorkis and Feds).

 

Had more problems with new fangled Ms.

 

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot to all!

 

Noel, thanks, now I can't say that I don't know what is Filca.

In Spain there is a saying that says something like "You will not got to sleep without knowing anything more".;)

 

James, as Noel has told to you, I ever pre-cut the film, before load it into the IIIf, but I didn't know the reason. I also pre-cut the film in my home, but I ever carry the little Swiss army penknife.

 

Don, I listen to everyone, because I always learn something new.

 

I usually use Ilford film, FP4, HP5 or PanF. I usually buy the ready-made film, but many often I buy the film in rolls of 30m and I load the chassis, but the chassis are the standart (not Filca). Now, I try to buy any chassis Filca and I'll load with the film.

 

Juan

Edited by Juan B
Link to post
Share on other sites

HiJuan

 

A FILCA does not have felt light trap to scratch the film with and will last forever or until you drop it on road.

 

The little spring that locks it closed needs to be treated carefully, don't bend it too much.

 

The FILCA will work without the later IIIf locating finger, or with it fits the IIIF exactly.

 

The M cassette IXMOO will also work in the IIIf, but it has 2mm of free play.

 

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Noel,

 

Then I'm thinking that I will use the IIIF RD (with finger) with the current film cassettes and I'll look for a FILCA, and I'll load it with the Ilford film boxed, but I've been watching that it's not easy to found them and they are not very cheap. If I get to buy one, I'll try not to leave it on the road.:rolleyes:

 

Juan.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Noel,

 

Then I'm thinking that I will use the IIIF RD (with finger) with the current film cassettes and I'll look for a FILCA, and I'll load it with the Ilford film boxed, but I've been watching that it's not easy to found them and they are not very cheap. If I get to buy one, I'll try not to leave it on the road.:rolleyes:

 

Juan.

 

Hi Juan

 

They are not cheap some shops sell them like they are collectors but you can get them for 5-8 Euro... in UK. e.g google 'PETERLOY ' and phone or e-mail. They are heavy and having them scanned at airport is difficult, they look like military items...

But lots of people use commercial cassettes and pressure sensitive adhesive tape to butt the new film to the original film.

 

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

When I load, I trim for the 111f and it works in any other nikon or Leica I have. No film is wasted with the longer cut.

 

The proper cut is the best way to load a screw mount Leica. Other ways are possible, but they all pose a risk.

 

Do not lose the ABLON. The arrow pointend is for the brass cassette spool end and is required for a proper point in the dark. The leader end can use Ablon or Japanese/Tiwan knockoff, or a Swiss Army knife. Does not have to be perfect, just a smooth cut off 23 sprocket holes.

 

The knock off is for perhaps Nikon cassettes. It is not pointed on the one end.

Link to post
Share on other sites

confirmed, only the M models with opening backs don't require the long leader of 22-23 sprocket holes a la ABLON shape.

 

The similar camera s from Canon, Nicca, Zorki and Fed etc., ... all require the ABALON template shape.

 

Pre 1971 all commercial film (including daylight and dark room loads) had the template, style leader. The baseplate diagram should show this?

 

Noel

Link to post
Share on other sites

confirmed, only the M models with opening backs don't require the long leader of 22-23 sprocket holes a la ABLON shape.

 

The similar camera s from Canon, Nicca, Zorki and Fed etc., ... all require the ABALON template shape.

 

Pre 1971 all commercial film (including daylight and dark room loads) had the template, style leader. The baseplate diagram should show this?

 

Noel

 

Yes, you are right, the baseplate diagram of my "new" IIIG is the same as in the IIIF. Fortunately, I have a nice metal Leica template I bought some years ago, and a Leica cardboard template too, that came with my Leica "0", not so easy to use as the ABALON.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...