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Home processing of Tri-X & T-Max 400


roguewave

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I finally have the ability to start processing my own film. One big problem is water temperature. In the basement of my building, the water is very cold and just doesn't warm up. Has anyone found a compensation for this, Are there any tables or formula's for adjusting to this problem. I need to compensate for each of the steps. Thanks, Ben.

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I finally have the ability to start processing my own film. One big problem is water temperature. In the basement of my building, the water is very cold and just doesn't warm up. Has anyone found a compensation for this, Are there any tables or formula's for adjusting to this problem. I need to compensate for each of the steps. Thanks, Ben.

 

I process prints in our cellar with very few problems. Occasionally, when the temperature drops to 15c I have to leave prints a little longer in developer- 2 minutes with Tri-X but otherwise I don't seem to have any major problem. As far as film processing goes I load the film in a dark cupboard and process in the kitchen. I bring the water up to temperature by placing the plastic bottle containing the filtered water on a radiator which works fine as our central heating thermostat can be set at 20c.

 

Other than this I don't seem to encounter many problems. What sort of temperatures are you referring to in your basement? our cellar certainly gets pretty cold in the winter

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Do you not have any access to any hot water at all? (A kettle even...?) 20 deg C is the standard developing temperature - it's not that warm (68 deg F)

 

You absolutely need a thermometer that accurately measures temperature by the way. I'm amazed that Kenneth gets useable results by leaving water on the radiator.

 

Have you looked at the Great Big Developing Chart at digitaltruth.com?

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I used to use an aquarium water heater in a washing bowl of water which I stood the chemicals in. Basic ones are cheap and it worked well (since I started developing my own B&W again I've not had any real issues with developing at 'room temperature' which has been around 20deg so far, but I might invest in another fish tank heater!)

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How cold is it? Kodak's data sheets (download) for both films and developers typically cover processing times at temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees F. T-Max is a lot more sensitive to development variables, Tri-X has a lot more room for error. Try to keep the temperatures of all your chemicals the same, to save stress on the emulsion.

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Thanks to all for the pointers, Ran a few tests this weekend, Even in summer, it's rather cool down in the basement. Below 20C. I think I can work this out. Winter might be another story. James' fish-heater might work to keep an outer bath close to the right consistent temp. Thanks again all. anyone have a favorite changing bag? I'm getting clumsy in my old age & need a bit more room to snuggle the film into it's rightful place. Thanks again for the sage advice. Ben

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I use an earlier version of the Calumet "Changing Room":

 

Calumet Changing Room - RM1000 - RM1000

 

Plenty of room inside -- only issue is that I have to spend time relearning the internal bracing each time I use it (in other words I'm not doing much home developing these days).

 

-- Steve A.

 

PS: I've used the water-bath technique in cold locations -- heat the water in a small wash tub to processing temperature & set the developing tank and graduates with chemicals in it. Once temperatures stabilize it will keep them there long enough to process the film -- or refresh as necessary if you're doing a lot of processing.

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The mass dev chart recommends for TMax 100 for 6m30s at 18 degrees C with HC110 but I find that the negatives are a little thin and not contrasty enough. Does anyone have a similar experience? Any recommendations? Does pre-washing with higher temperature water (28 degrees) affect the development?

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The water bath is the only way to go. Cold/warm soak the chemistry in the water bath until it stablizes at the proper temperature. Actually, this is the easist variable to control. Consistent chemistry temperature is a key to control the quality of your work and eliminate a failure point in the process. I use antique Nikor stainless tanks and reels that can be immersed in the bath between agitation cycles.

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Thanks for the tip LDM. Just to clarify: do you mean that the pre soak bath and the developlment bath need to be the same temperature? Is temp control during the stop and fix also important? The trouble I have is that the tap water is too warm and so I can only use limited amounts of water from a pitcher in the fridge.

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Ben, I'll second the Calumet "Changing Room" it's what I use and I couldn't be happier. I usually load two 2 reel stainless steel tanks with either 35mm or 120 mf, plenty of room without getting all sweaty and it folds down flat for storage when done.

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68C out of the tap. Ouch. Good for brewing tea, I suppose. A trick I usd to use in my darkroom that got over 80F in the summer was to have a zip-lock bags full of ice cubes (one for each tray to avoid cross-contamination) and dunk the bags in trays to kep the temp down.

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