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"exposure table" to make photo with M3


nepalese

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Hy friends..this is my first thread in this forum...I'm Alessandro and I write from Rome.

I'm sorry, but I can't speak and write english very well...so...I'm looking for an exposure table to use my M3 without an exposure meter.

Can you help me to find it? If you want, you can send me some image-files about exposure table to my e-mail address: fotoklik@hotmail.com

 

Thank you friends

 

Alessandro

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Thank you very much Tim...I'm looking fot this, but something more careful? Do you know where can I find it?

 

Bye, Alessandro:)

 

Alex,

maybe the better is to find some "exposure advice" table attached to some old time camera with no exposure meter: I hope to find one an send it to you a copya as attachment: I look for it

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Alessandro,

Here is one I leached off a post by a fellow forum member a while back (probably the old forum). My sincere apologies for not remembering the gentleman's name.

 

- Carl

 

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Hello,

 

 

Here is an exposure table I used in the 60-ties.

It is made for Gevapan 30. If I remind well it is made for Scheiner 30 = 20 Din = 80 Asa or ISO.

If you want to use it for 160 (or 200) ISO you have to add 1 to the number you get

For 400 you have to add 2 etc

 

rgs

 

Luc

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The 'sunny sixteen' rule was originally conceived in Sunny California. Where I live, at close to 60 degrees North, it is more like 'sunny eleven', especially in the winter. Even so, remember:

 

1) Sunny sixteen is for the sun behind your back. Open up between 1/2 and 2/3 of a stop with sidelight, 1 1/2 for oblique backlighting.

 

2) With the sun below 30 degrees above the horizon, light wanes rapidly. If you are using negative film (and if not, may God and all photographic saints be with you) then a good idea is to make one exposure at the setting you think is right, and then one with up to two f-stops more or four times the exposure time. This is because negative film handles 'overexposure' (i.e. more than minimum exposure) well, but is intolerant of less than minimum exposure (i.e. real underexposure).

 

If your M3 is a later version, with the modern shutter speeds (1/30, 1/60, 1/125 ...) then the camera will handle a late Leicameter. These of course are 'outboard' meters that live in the accessory shoe and couple to the speed dial. Late model M4 meters used CdS cells and will accept present, mercury-free Wein cells. A competent mechanic may have to calibrate the meter anew though by the internal trimming potentiometers. The only thing about the Leicameters that is not self-explanatory is that the angle of acceptance of an M4 meter is about equal to that of a 90 mm lens. Press the metering key while looking through the camera finder!

 

The old man from the Age of Selenium Meters

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The 'sunny sixteen' rule was originally conceived in Sunny California. Where I live, at close to 60 degrees North, it is more like 'sunny eleven', especially in the winter. Even so, remember:

 

1) Sunny sixteen is for the sun behind your back. Open up between 1/2 and 2/3 of a stop with sidelight, 1 1/2 for oblique backlighting.

 

2) With the sun below 30 degrees above the horizon, light wanes rapidly. If you are using negative film (and if not, may God and all photographic saints be with you) then a good idea is to make one exposure at the setting you think is right, and then one with up to two f-stops more or four times the exposure time. This is because negative film handles 'overexposure' (i.e. more than minimum exposure) well, but is intolerant of less than minimum exposure (i.e. real underexposure).

 

If your M3 is a later version, with the modern shutter speeds (1/30, 1/60, 1/125 ...) then the camera will handle a late Leicameter. These of course are 'outboard' meters that live in the accessory shoe and couple to the speed dial. Late model M4 meters used CdS cells and will accept present, mercury-free Wein cells. A competent mechanic may have to calibrate the meter anew though by the internal trimming potentiometers. The only thing about the Leicameters that is not self-explanatory is that the angle of acceptance of an M4 meter is about equal to that of a 90 mm lens. Press the metering key while looking through the camera finder!

 

The old man from the Age of Selenium Meters

 

Ok Lars, I understood and I will remember your advice during the exposition. My M3 is the last version with the modern shutter speeds, but I don't like leicamenter...if I must use an exposure meter I would like to buy the digital pentax exposure. What do you think about this?

 

thank you

 

bye, Alessandro

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Ok Lars, I understood and I will remember your advice during the exposition. My M3 is the last version with the modern shutter speeds, but I don't like leicamenter...if I must use an exposure meter I would like to buy the digital pentax exposure. What do you think about this?

 

thank you

 

bye, Alessandro

 

Alessandro,

what I use today are a couple of Gossen meters:an analog old Gossen Lunasix F because it meters flashlight, and is utterly reliable; a Gossen Sixtomat Digital because it is flat and light; and an ancient Quantum Calcu-Light X because it is small and so utterly robust that you could drop it from the third floor and it would still work. I am not in the know about later models.

 

The reason why I like to carry such a meter even with a camera with integral metering is *incident light metering* with the little white translucent hemisphere. Metering this way is the only absolutely certain metering, because you are guaranteed to get your highlights absolutely right, which is vital with both reversal films and digital sensors. And if such meters had been available in the 1930's, Ansel and Edward would never have bothered to invent the Zone System. (Which BTW is nonsense -- Adams and Weston did not know what they were talking about.)

 

The old man of the Age of Selenium Meters

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