Neil Purling Posted September 30, 2009 Share #1 Posted September 30, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I got some of this from a vendor in the Ukraine. I have used Tasma 64, when Retro Photographic got a sample batch of it. The Tasma 32 is supplied in what we would term as a darkroom reload, not in a cassette. I was wondering about developing. Tasma still make the emulsion in sheet form, but not as 35mm it seems. Unless someone knows better I was going to try the time of Ilford Pan F with my two usual developers; R09 and A49. The stuff is dated 1992, which is more recent than the Pan F I have developed without any signs of aging. Interestingly Tasma make a 400 ASA emulsion in 35mm form (Tasma 17[L]). It's sold in bulk lengths for aerial survey purposes. I have e-mailed the factory in Tartarstan, but goodness knows if they can advise me on developing the 35mm Tasma 32. I also expressed an interest in the 400 ASA stock. Goodness knows if they will ever reply. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 30, 2009 Posted September 30, 2009 Hi Neil Purling, Take a look here Tasma Films. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
MPerson Posted September 30, 2009 Share #2 Posted September 30, 2009 Neil - had some of this from Retro, it came in cassetes ready loaded - unfortunately the film was not attached to the cassette! I played safe and developed in Diafine as info is sketchy. Best bet is to search on APUG as I turned up some of info over there, some have used it and the Svema brand as well. Good luck Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purling Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted October 1, 2009 I had the same problem with the improperly taped film tail. I lost 36 shots of a Harley Rally that way. I complained to Retro. Before they disposed of all the Tasma they reccomended only shoot 30 shots. I have just scanned some of the Tasma 100 and Tasma 64. Very respectable grain & contrast, but it surely does not like over-exposure. In the skies grain like a 400 ASA. Fomapan is just the same, so you can't blame Tasma. The last time I shot any of the Retro Photographic Tasma was around mid 2006. The Tasma 64 was the popular film in the FSU, wide exposure latitude it is said. The Tasma 64 from retro followed FSU practice of not being in a cassette, while the 100 was in a DX coded cassette. Maybe they were feeling for export markets and failed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purling Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted October 1, 2009 I tried APUG. No specific mention of Tasma 32. I have also looked in my notebooks, where I record the details of what is on each film . There is no extra writing regarding processing. I changed developers around that time. My notes show I probably developed the Tasma in Rodinal I made no notes of the dev time. The massive developement Chart lists Svema 32 in Ilfotec LC29. It looks like my idea of starting with the Pan F timing is about right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted October 1, 2009 Share #5 Posted October 1, 2009 Neil - found my notes. I lost the negs in a house fire a couple of years ago but I used two developers: Rodinal: 1+100 - one hour stand dev. Two reel Paterson tank, 6ml Rodinal + 600 ml water. Gentle inversion for 30 secs then leave 1 hour. Diafine: 5 mins in part A, two inversions each minute. 5 Mins in part B, gentle agitation first 30 secs then stand. This maybe of interest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purling Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted October 1, 2009 I have seen the thread in the previous post & I have e-mailed the Russian sources of Tasma films AND the factory itself. The stand developement is Rodinal 1:100. I have some, it is about four months old by now. Is that matured enough? I have seen stand developement spoken of before in connection with Foma 400. I have never tried it. What is the difference between this way and the conventional 1 min agitation to start then 10 sec at the top of each minute? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted October 3, 2009 Share #7 Posted October 3, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Gives more control of highlights, brings out shadow detail and less agitation keeps grain to an acceptable size in faster films. That is the perceived wisdom! P. Lynn Miller on RFF has some good info Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purling Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted October 3, 2009 I found my mature R09 & took a clip off a exposed film. 7 1/2 to 8 min in R09 dil 1:50 looks OK. 10 min would have been too long. I will see what it scans like when the negs are dried & cut. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purling Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share #9 Posted October 3, 2009 Excuse me: I have been able to have a better look at my negatives, now they're hanging up to dry. It looks like I want more density in the highlights. Maybe I should try 9 and then the full 10 min? next? The Tasma 32 has no fog level, which is good news. It's only Western equivalent was the old Kodak Panatomic X. I only ever shot one cassette of that If the Tartarstan factory was still making Tasma 32, 64 or 100 in 35mm they'd be really nice films. You can be sure I will find myself shooting a comparison between the Tasma 32 and a length of Pan F slightly pull-processed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Purling Posted October 3, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted October 3, 2009 Maybe I should try 9 and then the full 10 min? next? I did try another clip-test: 10 min for the Tasma 32, which is the Pan F timing in R09 1:50 I bought some Tasma 64 too. Their faster films are where things go seriously ca-ca. Foto 250 was the fastest they made, which ain't that fast. They changed the GOST speed standard of the USSR in the 70's ans that was based on a higher gamma of 0.8. I have no idea if Tasma are still making 35mm aerial survey film (Type 17L). It looks better than the Foma if it gives a genuine 400 ASA in D76. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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