Jump to content

Neil Purling

Members
  • Content Count

    79
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Neil Purling

  • Rank
    Benutzer
  • Birthday 01/01/1966

Converted

  • City
    Hull
  • Job
    Sales Assistant
  • Your Leica Products / Deine Leica Produkte
    Leica III body

Profile Information

  • Country
    United Kingdom
  1. My first 35mm rangefinder camera was a Soviet FED 1, named after Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky. I was prosperous, having got a job and noted a Leica III on ebay. I was like a cat on hot bricks until the auction ended & I was supposed to be on holiday. The Leica had 'issues', nothing too bad but the rangefinder certainly needed re-setting. I sent the Leica to someone in the former Soviet Union who had also serviced my FED and lenses. I have only one genuine Leitz lens, an Elmar 50/3.5 and a hood because the lens is not coated. Everything else is Soviet. No 90mm or 135mm at present. I
  2. With my Leica III of 1938 vintage I always lock the shutter open & remove the lens in order to load a film. You can then see that the film is aligned correctly and will wind on before putting the floor plate & lens back. It is a slow process, you just have to be patient. That way the shutter curtains are never exposed to any chance of harm. I have not bothered to buy a ABLON template. They look rather like a door hinge with locating pins to hold the film in place. The strange name I assume is a unique code by which any part is identified. The problem is that everything is a 'colle
  3. Has anyone done a test of the Fomapan 200 vs FP4 in D76 or ID11? For doing a comparison I can't imagine a more general purpose fine-grain developer. I am wondering about contrast and rendition of detail. Looking at the official Foma information suggests that it might be wiser to use D76 diluted 1+1 as it looks like the contrast builds rather fast in stock solution. Thinking of 8 min as a start for the Fomapan 200. Is Fomapan 200 going to be very inferior to FP4 Plus in detail rendition?
  4. Back in 2005 I fed my FED 1 Leica II clone some Lucky 100 and 400. At that time it had little or no anti-halation back coating. You can still get Lucky 100 on ebay, but not the 400. I don't know if the 2010 Lucky 35mm now has the coating. I do hope not. Has anyone got any findings they can comment on? I liked the Lucky film back then as it did something unusual that HP5 or Tri X Pan did not do.
  5. A genuine IIIF RD for $60.00? Are you sure you have not made a mistake in setting the speeds or any other part of the operational sequence of making a Leica image? If the shutter curtains are perished it looks like streaks vertically down the negative. A blob in one position could be a pin hole in the shutter curtain. Lets see a well exposed frame before we draw any firm conclusions. For the price you paid I would have expected the camera to have been fit for parts only. If it does need a rebuild, I would not be surprised.
  6. How well does Ilford HP5 & XP2 scan? I have a spool of HP5 in my Leica at present and I have a can of Ilford Surveillance film P4, which is alleged to be HP5 on a different base material. For really good stuff I have inclined towards XP2 in the belief that it gave better results. I don't know if this is a correct belief or not.
  7. I have been using : ERA 100 Fomapan 100, 200 & 400 Tri X Pan first rolls since 1987! Agfapan 400 Ilford Pan F I develope in R09 and A49. My 'stash' comprises: 4x35mm ERA 100 2xAgfapan APX400 2x35mm Technical Pan Bulk length of Pan F part used Sealed can of 30M Fomapan 200 30M Ilford Surveillance Film 400 P4 I have been scanning negs, although the scans seem to show greater grain levels than there should be, especially in skies. I think this is something called aliasing. 'tis a bit of a pain in the bum. I don't know how grainy I should expect Tri X and Fomapan 400 to ap
  8. I would be interested in contributing towards a share in a 400ft can of Eastman 5222, if there are fellow Leica photographers who are interested. I don't have the facilities to wind off four 100ft rolls off the 400ft core.
  9. Has anyone managed to get 'short ends' of this stuff? I have shot it before, many moons ago. It is normally 200-250 ASA, but I did shoot at 400 and push-process it. I don't know what the going rate is for the stuff in the UK. Is there anyone who deals in motion picture film in the UK? It would be great to split a 400ft can with some fellow Leica enthusiasts. Feeding our leica's with cine stock is nothing new. Oskar did it, so why not me as well?
  10. I was wondering if anyone has stuffed their Leica with the Chinese Lucky Super 200? Didn't they have a link with Fuji at one time? I don't know if anything good came out of it. I used to use their monochrome emulsions when they had no anti-halation coating. I didn't know they were doing colour print film.
  11. Has anyone recently bought any short ends of 35mm motion picture stock? In the past I used short ends of Eastman Double X and Ilford HP5. I don't know if you can even get 35mm B&W motion picture stock in odd lengths. I was looking at the German Orwo N74, but the strength of the Euro meant that while the company was quite willing to supply me with 30M the price would probably wotk out as being more than the same length of HP5 or Tri X bought in the UK. Has anyone used the Orwo N74 to be able to offer a opinion on it's qualities. The company behind the film is FilmoTec Gmbh & are
  12. I did try another clip-test: 10 min for the Tasma 32, which is the Pan F timing in R09 1:50 I bought some Tasma 64 too. Their faster films are where things go seriously ca-ca. Foto 250 was the fastest they made, which ain't that fast. They changed the GOST speed standard of the USSR in the 70's ans that was based on a higher gamma of 0.8. I have no idea if Tasma are still making 35mm aerial survey film (Type 17L). It looks better than the Foma if it gives a genuine 400 ASA in D76.
  13. Excuse me: I have been able to have a better look at my negatives, now they're hanging up to dry. It looks like I want more density in the highlights. Maybe I should try 9 and then the full 10 min? next? The Tasma 32 has no fog level, which is good news. It's only Western equivalent was the old Kodak Panatomic X. I only ever shot one cassette of that If the Tartarstan factory was still making Tasma 32, 64 or 100 in 35mm they'd be really nice films. You can be sure I will find myself shooting a comparison between the Tasma 32 and a length of Pan F slightly pull-processed.
  14. I found my mature R09 & took a clip off a exposed film. 7 1/2 to 8 min in R09 dil 1:50 looks OK. 10 min would have been too long. I will see what it scans like when the negs are dried & cut.
  15. I have seen the thread in the previous post & I have e-mailed the Russian sources of Tasma films AND the factory itself. The stand developement is Rodinal 1:100. I have some, it is about four months old by now. Is that matured enough? I have seen stand developement spoken of before in connection with Foma 400. I have never tried it. What is the difference between this way and the conventional 1 min agitation to start then 10 sec at the top of each minute?
×
×
  • Create New...