Flashers with an M

[wide.angle]

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How do you flash? Yes, I know its a sin to use flash with an M, but then flashers know that already. I was considering getting (a small manual) one to use on my MP over the holiday break, just to provide a very slight, imperseptible extra pop/freeze to an otherwise available (low) light scene.

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[ddp]

I use an SF - 20....small enough for when I need it. And I do use flash on my M's when doing event work, so it's good for more than simple fill.

[wide.angle]

For the SF-20 and 24D, it looks like the power can be lowered to 1/8th power. At this rating, would it still overpower close up subjects (not macro but say 2 to 6 ft) where the subject and scene was mostly still lit by low ambient light (lets say some incandescent lamps)? Using 800 ISO film?

 

In my search for understanding, I ran across the idea of using "bare tube" flash, seemed interesting. The only small flash I could find of this type that seemed to work with an M was a Sunpak 120J. Anyone used anything like this?

[nomad]

I use a Nikon SB22s. I use it on auto (4 stops) or manual with my MP. It's quite big. Haven't used it enough to comment on low light with an 'imperceptible' pop.

 

David

[bill]

I occasionally used an SF20 with my M6 and M7, before I went all purist on myself.

 

To get that 'pop' you need to adjust the flash down 2/3 stop, and preferably take it off-camera using the Nikon SC-17 cord, or the Contax TLA equivalent. Both the Nikon and Contax systems have the same pin configuration as Leica - please note that it DOESN'T mean the flash guns themselves can be used safely with Leica bodies.

 

Regards,

 

Bill

[doubice]

............ I was considering getting (a small manual) one to use on my MP over the holiday break, just to provide a very slight, imperseptible extra pop/freeze to an otherwise available(low) light scene.

 

Scott,

 

I use an old Rollei flash (121BC or E-15BC) on my M's when needed. The flash is about the size of a packet of cigarettes and can be set to Auto, should you need it. As I understand from your post, you are looking for a flash that would retain some ambient light in your shot and just add a little extra light. I find the little Rollei perfect for this.

 

The flash was originally made to go with the Rollei 35. Should you wish for more power, Rollei made a slightly larger flash (1 stop more power), called 128BC. The reason I like both of these is that they fit the Leica quite nicely and are not too high, thus not making the camera difficult to balance. The 121BC uses 2 AA batteries, the 128BC needs 4 AA's. The only thing to watch for are corroded contacts in the battery compartment, as both flashes can only be found on the used market.

 

Both can be found on eBay quite cheaply, simply search for "Rollei Flash" in eBay's search engine.

 

Another idea would be a small Vivitar or Sunpak unit with a tilting head. The tilting head will allow bouncing the flash of the ceiling, providing more natural illumination.

 

My suggestions are meant to let you find a flash that does not cost much, since your use of it will probably be quite limited. Otherwise, the SF-20 or the 24D would be quite suitable as well.

 

All the best,

 

Jan

[Lucklik]

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I use a SF20 in TTL mode and set the ISO to the double value on my M6TTL or M7

I measure the ambient light as i would do without a flash.

This gives me 50% ambient light + 50% flashlight.

Most people don't notice in the pictures that a flkash has been used.

rgfs

Luc

[mwilliamsphotography]

I use a Leica SF20 for 80% of my Leica M wedding shots (actually it's a Metz flash made for Leica). Most people can't even detect my use of flash except for the tell-tale catch light in the eyes ... which isn't a bad thing at all.

 

The Sunpack 120J Bare Bulb flash is waaaaay to big for use on an M camera. In fact most shoe mount flashes completely defeat the purpose of the compact M including the Metz MZ series.

 

After thousands of M shots using SF20 flash here are a few tips I've picked up that may be of help:

 

The best use of on camera fill flash is when the flash is oriented directly over the lens. Unfortunately the SF20 is a fixed head flash, which means you cannot use it to bounce light or rotate the head when shooting in portrait orientation. To counter this I use a diffuser (my choice is the S-Fill from Lutz's Leica Goodies). When shooting in the portrait orientation I place the flash to the side opposite the light source. For the shot of the "Reluctant Ringbear" posted below, I placed the flash to the right side because the ambient source was coming from the left.

 

The photo of the Bride Exiting the Limo was done straight on and the flash was reduced a full stop using the +/- controls on the SF20 ... thus providing fill to reduce shadows from the overhead ambient.

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[rob_x2004]

What about Mecablitz 28AF3 (100gram ex bat) and 28CS2? They seem pretty small and innocuous, and lift the bulb up a bit which would often have to be a good thing. Taller than me mighty BC6 anyway. The 20C2 looks a bit bigger and fugly with a tilting reflector, but, it looks like it has M, 2.8 & 5.6 and an easy to read GN chart on the back. Have to be ok wouldnt it?

 

What other options are out there?

[smallfilms]

I use a SF20 in TTL mode and set the ISO to the double value on my M6TTL or M7

I measure the ambient light as i would do without a flash.

This gives me 50% ambient light + 50% flashlight.

 

Luc

 

Luc,

 

Do you then process the film at the normal value or at the doubled value? Thanks,

 

Bill

[NickR]

I use a nikon sb-25. Since it covers a 20mm lens in wide mode, I can use it indoors with the 21mm SA. Of course, because of the aux. viewfinder, I have to use a flash bracket. It does make for a rather ungainly setup with the M6, though.

[Lucklik]

Luc,

 

Do you then process the film at the normal value or at the doubled value? Thanks,

 

Bill

Hi Bill,

 

I process the film at the normal speed. I'll try to be nore precise.

Lets say I use a Tri=X ISO 400.

I put the M6TTL or M7 at ISO800 and maesure the light.

I put the SF20 in TTL mode

Because the camera will now put the SF20 also to ISO800,

The scene is lighted with 100% at ISO 800 from the ambient light and

100% at 800ISO from the flash.

Both ISO800 together gives 100% at ISO400

Just try it, its hard to explain.

;-)

Luc

[rob_x2004]

Now I am confused. If you are using TTL on an M7 isnt the shutter going to close when you have sufficient exposure to satisfy the 800ISO and the flash isnt going to provide more than required to do that? I mean the film cant make the distinction where the packet of light is coming from?

[wide.angle]

Thanks for all the information. I missed the later comments because of my travel times, so I'm just now reading them. I ended up going sans flash for this trip and shooting high iso.

 

Marc, your example photos look fantastic!

 

I'm a little confused on flash theory and am hoping for some additional explanation. I'm wondering why ambient light plus flash light does not equate to an overexposure when the shutter and aperture for given film iso is set to the ambient lighting conditions alone.

[wide.angle]

Alright, I picked up a used SF24D today. I'll update you all with some work in the near future.

[rob_x2004]

Seems like a good option to me. Bung it on top and forget about it, or easy tweak the thing when you get into it. Please post some colour work with it.

Regards.

[Lucklik]

Now I am confused. If you are using TTL on an M7 isnt the shutter going to close when you have sufficient exposure to satisfy the 800ISO and the flash isnt going to provide more than required to do that? I mean the film cant make the distinction where the packet of light is coming from?

I set the speed manualy not on auto.

I use the M7 like I would use the M6

 

Luc