Freelander Posted September 20, 2009 Share #1 Posted September 20, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi Guys, can I have some advice . I have been given 10 rolls of Kodak T-Max 100 which is well past it's best before date (1997). My question is what would be a good place to start as regards exposure and developing. Should I expose @ 100 asa and develop for 50 asa ? What would you guys suggest. Thanks up front...... David ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 20, 2009 Posted September 20, 2009 Hi Freelander, Take a look here old TMX 100. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
christer Posted September 20, 2009 Share #2 Posted September 20, 2009 Expose at 50 and develop for 100 would be a better idea. The best idea would be to dump the films in the North Sea. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB23 Posted September 21, 2009 Share #3 Posted September 21, 2009 Expose at 50 and develop for 100 would be a better idea. The best idea would be to dump the films in the North Sea. Why would you dump an expired low ISO B&W film? Chances are it's almost perfect. ISO 100 BW film ages very well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freelander Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted September 21, 2009 Maybe there is so much pollution in the north sea it would make a great developer ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted September 21, 2009 Share #5 Posted September 21, 2009 Make 6 exposures on one roll and cut off 12" and test it. Make some exposures at 32,40,64, 80, 100 and develope 8.75 min in D76. 68 deg agitation 5 sec every thirty. Find a full tonal range subject with textured whites and blacks, say a cross lit white stucco house with black shutters. If you see significant base fog, ie darkened area between frames, and around sprocket holes, consider tossing it. If you can make good prints, use the rest of the roll and freeze the balance in a sealed container. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubenkok Posted September 21, 2009 Share #6 Posted September 21, 2009 Hi David, From the older films we do not guarantee that we can get pictures, but usually about 90% of the films we process do have pictures. Can be read at: Black and White Film Developing So my guess is to shoot the film at ISO 100 and develop it in new/fresh developer. I would use Ilfosol 3 or Rodinal Hope this is some help. Kind regards Ruben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted September 21, 2009 Share #7 Posted September 21, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) To be perfectly honest the north sea sounds good. D76 might be more forgiving and the rodinal I would stay away from unless it was in stand development. I know we are comparing apples and pears here with TMax Trix, but amusingly, from a sweaty rusty can 100' bulk Trix of '96 vintage, at the beginning of the year I belted off a dozen rolls, and since I have used only rodinal since about 2003 I developed the first half dozen in that. The results were unsalvageable negatives that I put down to old film in and out of freezers unopened but with at least three owners and god knows what. The last six rolls were up on a shelf to be thrown out without wasting further developer. On a whim I stand developed three of the remainder in a three tank in Rodinal last night for something to do and was really pretty surprised at the result. Local exhaustion looks after the hights, the no agitation looks after the grain size and clumping. So its pretty gentle on old film of dubious heritage. And in a rare winner I went downstairs and found I hadnt thrown out the remainder of the bulk roll. Will use it for shooting in so to speak, but probably not for anything serious. What I wont do is normal develop it unless I do a gentle D76 (ID11), which like I said I have been away from for seven odd years. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freelander Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted September 22, 2009 Thank-you all. I only have T-Max chemicals which are new I'll try a couple of ideas you have posted . I won't hold my breath since I've not developed a film since the late 80's Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubenkok Posted September 22, 2009 Share #9 Posted September 22, 2009 Hi David, Please note: Temperature recommendation for most developers is 20 ˚C. (68 ˚F); for KODAK T- MAX Developer, it is 24 ˚C (75 ˚F) Good luck. I like to see the results Kind regards Ruben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmarman Posted September 23, 2009 Share #10 Posted September 23, 2009 I was given some 120 T-max 100 dated 1996 so I loaded my Mamiya C220 I had also been GIVEN by a Club member and took it on a trip to London, and rated the film with my Weston Master V meter at 50ASA, developed in Geoffrey Crawley Formula FX4 1+1 for 8 mins and the negs were wonderful ! I made some 20x16" prints to show at my Club and got several 'stickers' and one of the photos has been shown recently in London at the British Egyptian Society photo competition! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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