Jump to content

How to manual focus the X1


Lucklik

Recommended Posts

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I wonder how the MF works on the X1.

 

On the D1 we could focus on the screen, but I never used it because it didn't worked well.

On the D2 we had the choice between the screen (which worked better than the D1 but for me it didn't worked well enough) and setting the distance on the lens. (which I very often do because it is much faster)

There seems to be no special focus dial.

This leaves the option of setting the distance on the back screen in meters or feet

It would be possible to set the distance on a scale and see the dept of field according to the used diafragma.

 

On paper the X1 looks very interesting but for me proper handling of the manual focus will be very decisive to buy or no to buy the X1

Link to post
Share on other sites

There seems to be no special focus dial.

 

In addition to the two dials on the top of the camera (for aperture and shutter speed), the X1 has a third (thumb) dial on the back. Judging from the button layout on the back, my guess would be that this dial can be used either for manual focussing or for exposure compensation. It doesn't have distance marks like the dial on the DP2, though, which means you'd need to look at the LCD. I think I read somewhere that someone who already briefly used a pre-production X1 said that the LCD zooms in if you focus manually (like on the G1), but I can't find that anymore.

Link to post
Share on other sites

From Rona|d who had the chance to play with a pre-production X1:

 

das Drehrad für die manuelle Fokussierung arbeitet sehr gut, man kann den optimalen Schärfepunkt recht gut erreichen.

 

Translation: The manual focus dial works very good, you can quite easily reach optimal focus.

 

More here.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The main problem is for me manual focus operation. It is not good on the X1.

 

Two suggestions easily doable by firmware programming:

 

1. Ricoh's manual focus system:

 

You can pre-select three distances (1m, 3m, 5m) and pressing a button or turning the wheel you will jump from one of these pre-selected distances to the next.

 

2. Clasical DoF markings simulation:

 

On the LCD you get a line with the distance scale (from 0 to infinity). Then, a mark points to the selected focus distance, AND two additional marks (at the left and to the right) point to the limits of the DoF for the selected aperture and distance. In this way you can select a hyperfocal distance, or a particular DoF range (for instance, from 1m to 5 m). Then, turn the LCD off and make pictures.

 

Leica should adopt one or the two solutions for a fast manual focus operation.

Link to post
Share on other sites

There are problems with all of the above suggestions. First, the shallow DOF means that you must be either stopped down substantially for an approximate distance to work. Second, if you are using the magnified image square you must be able to see it. In bright daylight or very dark conditions neither works very well from an LCD on the back. This is the same problem one has with the E-P1. With a P&S and its very wide DOF the focusing doesn't need to be as accurate to be acceptable for 4x6 (though not great). On a $2K camera you want very sharp focus and the range of conditions that you can achieve this using a rear LCD are limited. Thus you might as well figure it is really an AF camera.

Link to post
Share on other sites

In addition to the two dials on the top of the camera (for aperture and shutter speed), the X1 has a third (thumb) dial on the back. Judging from the button layout on the back, my guess would be that this dial can be used either for manual focussing

 

You are right.

 

I was at the road show of Leica's S2/M9 today, somebody asked Leica USA's Brian Bell about the this and his answer is the thumb wheel on the back.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The main problem is for me manual focus operation. It is not good on the X1.

 

2. Clasical DoF markings simulation:

 

On the LCD you get a line with the distance scale (from 0 to infinity). Then, a mark points to the selected focus distance, AND two additional marks (at the left and to the right) point to the limits of the DoF for the selected aperture and distance. In this way you can select a hyperfocal distance, or a particular DoF range (for instance, from 1m to 5 m). Then, turn the LCD off and make pictures.

 

 

This is what I tried to explain in my first post. I use MF when there is no time for AF. (in that case MF on an enlarged area on the LCD is out of the question) On street photography this is often the case.

The X1 would be a perfect street camera if I can set the focus in meter.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I wonder how the MF works on the X1.

 

On the D1 we could focus on the screen, but I never used it because it didn't worked well.

On the D2 we had the choice between the screen (which worked better than the D1 but for me it didn't worked well enough) and setting the distance on the lens. (which I very often do because it is much faster)

There seems to be no special focus dial.

This leaves the option of setting the distance on the back screen in meters or feet

It would be possible to set the distance on a scale and see the dept of field according to the used diafragma.

 

On paper the X1 looks very interesting but for me proper handling of the manual focus will be very decisive to buy or no to buy the X1

 

A thumb wheel (freewheeling, no distance markings), with zone focusing distance scale or live-view on the LCD. According to Sean Reid's review Welcome to ReidReviews the wheel doesn't work as well as the Sigma's.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

I have been pleasantly surprised by the effectiveness of the manual focusing mode on the X1. It is not perfect because the control is extremely fine (lots of rotation needed to get from infinity to closest setting). But it merits some practicing on objects around the house to get a feel for its idiosyncrasies. It is also a pity that manual settings cannot be stored when powering down the camera (Perhaps a firmware upgrade will solve this issue)

 

Don't dismiss manual focusing; it may be slow, it may lack optical precision, but it can be accurate and vital for some tasks like moving objects or views through windows. If manual focusing is vital and recurring part of your everyday routine, then do try alternatives. But the X1 has other virtues which far outweigh this feature.

Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a tediously slow process, that unless you really need a razor sharp shot it is not worth the pain it takes to get the perfect focusing. I took a shot my sweet Cassie and you can actually count the whiskers, but of course she was sound asleep. It took me quite few minutes of fumbling.

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...