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Please help me evaluate my new Nokton 35 1.2 with my M8


agreenspan

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Hi everyone. I just got my new CV Nokton 35mm f1.2 lens the other day. On the M8 it makes a great "50mm" normal lens. I've read many posts about the nokton 1.2 vs 1.4 vs summilux vs summicron ..... yadda yadda yadda... and I chose to go with the Nokton.

I would just really appreciate help from those with more experience than me ( i.e. most of you) in helping me decide if I received a good copy of this lens. I've noticed that wide open it is a little soft - is mine normal?

I've posted some test images - most shot wide open.

Thanks for your help

Stephen.

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Consider...the depth of field is miniscule. Also, sharpness seems comparable to mine, wide open, considering the lower contrast subjects and light. It is far better than the 35mm 1.4 Summilux pre-aspheric wide open. Working at the distances you are, your DOF is going to be measured in fractions of an inch, wide open. It will be sharper stopped down slightly, but when you need to get the shot, the light is terrible, or when you want to isolate a subject in better light, it's a terrific lens.

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It's hard to tell *exactly* if these are a tad soft or not. BUT they do look a little soft.

 

* It may not be a "bad" copy of the lens, though. There are lots of threads about testing lenses here if you have that worry.

 

* The Nokton at f/1.2 is very demanding. :) I had 8x12 shots printed that I'd taken with this lens at f/1.2 and a *few* of the shots that looked just fine onscreen were NOT tack sharp where I'd put the focus. Somebody moved. :D

 

* When I'm shooting f/1.2 I *always* use the Leica 1.25x viewfinder magnifier--helps with getting the focus nailed. For me, it is a *must* to get in-focus shots. (Others may not find this to be the case.)

 

* In post I tend to sharpen a bit and bump contrast. That might be a factor in your shots, also.

 

Anyway, my set of Nokton stuff is here, if you want to have a look to get a better sense of "fingerprint."

CV35 Nokton f/1.2 - a set on Flickr

 

When you see a "swirly" OOF background or foreground, it was likely shot at f/1.2.

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stephen,

hard to tell - especially given the fact that i am looking at compressed jpegs on a crappy laptop screen. all i can say that i personally would consider your samples as not satisfactory - they lack this 'wow'-effect of a precise focus point against a nicely blurred background.

but again, this is a very personal judgement ... as long as you are happy with your results, everything's fine ...

 

markus

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Well, I send an earlier message, but lost it when I tried to edit it because JaapV metioned the same picture.

Anyway, I had the idea that the focus on the table and wine glass is just in front of the glass. You can see it on the table (it is really sharp in front of the glass). Maybe you can try a couple of shots where it is easy to see where the focus is.

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You're as correct as I am ;). The plane of focus is just in front of the bottom of the glass and through the rear at the top. The three coloured bulbs are frontfocussed too. The orange flower is probably backfocussed.

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From hat I can tell there appears to be a sharp plane on each of the images, it's just not where it's expected possibly.

 

In the first, the pod on the RHS looks sharp.

 

In the second, the RHS leaf and the blue ball look OK.

 

Third, under the dog's collar.

 

Fourth, LHS of the shade

 

Fifth, right eye.

 

Sixth, middle plank. etc.... etc

 

So, it's sharp from the look of it. You're obviously tilting the plane of focus which isn't helping the evaluation and you may not yet appreciate how little room there is for error.

 

I suggest you take a magazine, lay at a 30 degree angle on a table and shoot the text having marked where you focussed. Then review the capture on the monitor to determine how far out you are.

 

If it's consistently one way or the other, it's the lens, but I suspect it's just your familiarity.

 

All these shots are at close distance and you need to repeat the test at say 14 feet. Working at this close distance is demanding and you may need to learn how to compensate for it.

 

Good luck with it.

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Thanks for all the info. I'm learning a bunch. All the shots are handheld, and I did not play with the contrast too much. I've attatched a few more tests:

 

The pencil shows my point of focus - (to the best of my ability close up with a 1.25 magnifier)

The "Air Flow" pics have the focus point on the 'A'

The birthday card is focused on the word "another"

Thanks.

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A couple more. Thanks for the downloadable lens chart tip.

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please.jpg

 

 

 

For this kind of work handheld shots are valueless. You must use a tripod. Might I suggest you start using the lens for what it is intended, which is low-light shots. Anyway, in daylight it should draw like this:

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I have two of these lenses, and there is a difference between them as far as sharpness is concerned at f1.2

 

My older lens is black and is very sharp indeed. It will show moire on a bank note at full aperture. I purchased a silver version with the intention of selling the original black one. Unfortunately the silver one isn't as sharp and has to be stopped down to f2 - 2.8 before it shows moire. It's not a bad lens and is very useable at full aperture but the difference is easily seen when comparing the two lenses. It's not a question of front or back focus none of the subject is as sharp as the black lens.

 

Bob.

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