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Macro the hard way...


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D'oh! I forgot to add that the three previous pictures of the lily, iris and allium were all taken with the 1937 uncoated Hektor 13.5cm head screwed into the 16472 adapter ring (not actually the right one, but I can get by with it), into the Visoflex and bellows shown in the earlier images of this thread.

 

Image exposures were all around 1/40th - 1/60th, f6.3 - f9. Film was Fuji C200 (it was all I had at the time!).

 

Best wishes to all of you,

David.

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Thank you very much for your kind words!

 

I have another roll to develop, but this time it was mainly close-ups of a bee; once they've been developed I'll upload anything of 'interest'. I did make a rush purchase of some Fuji Sensia on Sunday so that I could carry on taking photos whilst I had everything setup (so far on that roll are more macro flower shots).

 

Many thanks,

David.

PS: I've also just managed to get hold of the dual cable release, so that should stop all those times that I forget to lock up the mirror before shooting! :rolleyes:

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The combination Visoflex 3, TeleElmar 135 and Ballows2 fits to the digital M, too. Here built up with the overheadviewer.

 

Wonderfull way, to shoot Macros "the oldschoolway". Hope you like the examples.

 

lg

 

Dieter

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Nice images! I really like the dandelion head :)

 

If anyone else is thinking about getting into macro using either the bellows, or extension tubes you'll need to take into account the compensation in exposure - easily done with TTL, but with my Leica II that doesn't help! So, for anybody wanting to know how to calculate the exposure, you can use the following formula (Morgan & Lester, 1938, p.235)...

 

(T) = (D x D) / (F x F)

 

where:

T = Increase in exposure

D = Distance from lens to film plane

F = Focal length.

 

So, with my 9cm lens in my bellows, if I measure from the lens to the film plane and get a measurement of 18cm this will give an increase in exposure of...

 

T = (18 x 18) / (9 x 9) which is 324 / 81 = 4

 

Increase in exposure is 4x or 2 stops. e.g. moving from f11 to f5.6 (or slowing the shutter speed as necessary).

 

I'm sure you all know this, but just in case it helps someone out!

 

Cheers,

David.

 

Morgan, W.D. & Lester, H.M. (1938). The Leica Way. Morgan & Lester Publishers, NY.

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The combination Visoflex 3, TeleElmar 135 and Ballows2 fits to the digital M, too. Here built up with the overheadviewer.

 

Wonderfull way, to shoot Macros "the oldschoolway". Hope you like the examples.

 

lg

 

Dieter

 

Did you mask off the Visoflex screen to the M8 sensor size ... or have you replaced the screen?

 

Best wishes

 

dunk

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A simple addition to your close-up kit is an exposure scale. Print the scale to size (so that the distance between the zero to 4x factor measures 36mm). When viewed across your Viso screen, you will see the correct exposure factor.

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Not yet. First I tried to use a cutted protection sheet for handy-displays. Looked awfull. Then I marked the edges of the sensor with a pencil on the screen, but I didn't like it, too.

Maybe I ask an optican, to engrave the size of the sensor into the screen, but how will that look like? Have you another idea? In the moment, I try to hit in the middle and cut the Photo in Photoshop, but that's not elegant...

 

Lg

 

Dieter

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Not yet. First I tried to use a cutted protection sheet for handy-displays. Looked awfull. Then I marked the edges of the sensor with a pencil on the screen, but I didn't like it, too.

Maybe I ask an optican, to engrave the size of the sensor into the screen, but how will that look like? Have you another idea? In the moment, I try to hit in the middle and cut the Photo in Photoshop, but that's not elegant...

 

Lg

 

Dieter

 

I seem to recall reading that some users have transplanted a DMR screen into a visoflex ... but I'm not sure if spare DMR screens are readily available.

 

Cheers

 

dunk

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Not yet. First I tried to use a cutted protection sheet for handy-displays. Looked awfull. Then I marked the edges of the sensor with a pencil on the screen, but I didn't like it, too.

Maybe I ask an optican, to engrave the size of the sensor into the screen, but how will that look like? Have you another idea? In the moment, I try to hit in the middle and cut the Photo in Photoshop, but that's not elegant...

 

Lg

 

Dieter

 

Personally I used exactly the above method : not the full edge but 4 short lines... like, say, the framelines of the Leica VF... I find it acceptable, much better than a paper cutted sheet, which too I tried.

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Personally I used exactly the above method : not the full edge but 4 short lines... like, say, the framelines of the Leica VF... I find it acceptable, much better than a paper cutted sheet, which too I tried.

 

Dieter, Luigi,

 

An interesting little problem you have to deal with when using a Visoflex on the M8.

As I never had an M8, I never thought about it. On the M9 I just noticed a couple

days ago that the actual M9 image is slightly wider than the image I see in the Visoflex Viewfinder.

It's no problem at all. I am curious though whether the Visoflex III I use has an adjustment for that.

My assumption is, it doesn't.

 

Best, K-H.

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I don´t know, if there is an special mirror or sreen for the DMR? I din´t know, but that would mean to to change the screen in the R9 using the DMR and changing it again, using films? I can´t believe it.

 

lg

 

Dieter

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I don´t know, if there is an special mirror or sreen for the DMR? I din´t know, but that would mean to to change the screen in the R9 using the DMR and changing it again, using films? I can´t believe it.

 

lg

 

Dieter

The screen is for the R8/R9 viewfinder, it has a permanent frame, in interupted line included in the regular screen, giving the frame the sensor of the DMR is able to take.

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...and the easy way (D-Lux 4)

;)

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