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summicron 50 - necessary for M8


Mark2007

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I have 28 and 35 asph,

 

-Some time I want to summicron 50 use for protrait, (6 month ago I have this lens but I sold it because I never used it)

 

-Please, make the decison for me, I should to use 35 mm (some time crop for protrait) or make money to buy 50 mm.

 

many thanks

mark:)

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I have 28 and 35 asph,

 

-Some time I want to summicron 50 use for protrait, (6 month ago I have this lens but I sold it because I never used it)

 

-Please, make the decison for me, I should to use 35 mm (some time crop for protrait) or make money to buy 50 mm.

 

many thanks

mark:)

 

Same here i never used my Summilux 50mm and sold ist. If your prefered the analog 50mm, you now should use 35mm. 75mm at the M8 could be interesting again.

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Well, if you had one and sold it because you didn't use it what's changed to make you think you will use it now? You might consider the 50mm Elmar if you want a 50 again as it should be less of a financial investment. It's a great little lens, easy to fit in pocket. Maybe if you carry it with along you might start seeing in 50mm more. Good luck.

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For me a wide lens is not for portraits. The 50mm cron in the m8 is a good lens for portrait. You can get closer without distorsion of the face. If I could I would love the 50mm sumilux.

 

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Andy--:)

 

@ Mark, while Mitch is right that there are different ways to make a portrait, I'm with Miguel when it comes to faces, unless you want to emphasize features through the distortion that comes with wides. While interesting, it may not be flattering (and is certainly not a traditional portrait length).

 

If you didn't like 50 (65-ish on the M8) before you might not like it much now...

 

I personally find the 50 on the M8 kind of neither fish nor fowl. I love my Nocti for other reasons, but wish it was a real 50 on the m8, and my 50 Lux does a lot of film on the M6 (though it's very nice on the M8, I always want something a bit wider generally ).

 

But for traditional portraits on the M8 I really like the 75 focal length (which comes out to what? 100mm FOV or a very traditional portrait length in terms of distance to subject (magnification, of course, isn't quite there).

 

If you can't find a used Lux for a good price, then perhaps a 75 Summarit? From what I've seen they look great.

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For me a wide lens is not for portraits. The 50mm cron in the m8 is a good lens for portrait. You can get closer without distorsion of the face. If I could I would love the 50mm sumilux.

 

[ATTACH]149390[/ATTACH]

 

Yeah no distortions ;)

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There are many different ways of making portraits. Here are two with wide-angle lenses:

 

Mitch,

 

Great portraits.

I love the first one.

Stunning use of the 21 pre asph in conjonction with 2500 iso and B/W.

Great lesson for me.

Thanks for sharing.

 

All the best,

Jean-Luc

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Nice distorsion! But not from the lens. He was slowly falling sleep.

I normally use the 50mm cron as my favourite street lens. It gives me a kind of polyvalency, but if I have an idea of a portrait, I use my lovely 75mm cron.

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As can be seen by many excellent examples a wide lens can function as a portrait lens...

 

But a wide lens requires you to get much closer to the subject to frame... This may affect the environment to such a degree that the feeling you are attempting to capture is lost...

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Guest malland

Rob, scaryink, Jean-Luc,

 

Thanks for the kind words.

 

I must note, however, that ISO 2500 on the M8 is very much a hit or miss affair: while it might come out great if there is no underexposure, the probability is that here will be some when there are difficult lighting conditions, in which case there will be troublesome banding as there was in the B&W picture above that I had to hide by burning the bottom edge.

 

I recognise that there are issues of distortion when shooting portraits close up with wide angle lenses but, nevertheless, interesting portraits can be made, often more interesting than technically correct portraits with the classic focal length for portraits.

 

The M8 the 35mm focal length can also be good for portraits; and generally I prefer the 50mm to the 75mm focal length because the latter, especially on the M8, makes you shoot from too far away, unless you do a head shot. Although the latter can sometimes be interesing I prefer the environmental-type portrait that shows the subject in his or her background. The most dramatic example of these two types of portraiture was impressed on me when some years ago I saw a great Arnold Newman retrospective at the Corcoran in Washington, which had an Annie Leibovitz exhibition at the same. This was unlucky for Leibovitz, whose work was so much outclassed by that of Newman that her huge head shots looked mere shallow and bombastic in comparison.

 

Here is a candid portrait shot on the Paris Metro with a 50mm lrens, although I realise that the processing may not be to everyone's taste but which I like:

 

 

 

Leica M8.2 | ISO 640 | Summilux-50 (pre-ASPH) | Paris

3203928466_7f3e2df9b0_o.jpg

 

 

 

—Mitch/Bangkok

Portraits

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I have 28 and 35 asph,

 

-Some time I want to summicron 50 use for protrait, (6 month ago I have this lens but I sold it because I never used it)

 

 

many thanks

mark:)

 

That's the problem, you never used it. If you had you would of found it a wonderful lens and you would of got use to how to shoot with it.

This shot was taken with a 50 Lux ASPH but you can do the same with the cron.

First is the original, second is a crop with touchup in PS CS4.

 

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As demonstrated in other posts in this thread. It's not the lens you use it is the photographer.

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{Snipped}

The M8 the 35mm focal length can also be good for portraits; and generally I prefer the 50mm to the 75mm focal length because the latter, especially on the M8, makes you shoot from too far away, unless you do a head shot. Although the latter can sometimes be interesing I prefer the environmental-type portrait that shows the subject in his or her background. {snipped}

 

 

I quite like using the 35 Lux as well for people, and as a rule I tend to shoot wider instead of longer (when I can) so 85% or more of my M8 shots are taken with a 24-28-35mm lens (which of course on the M8 really ranges from about 30 - 50 FOV--or "normal" FOV).

 

But the truth is that between 35 and 90 how "environmental" the portrait is depends entirely on how close you can get to your subject and sometimes you can't get close enough even with a 75 ;)

 

So I don't find the 75 makes me shoot "too far away" in the slightest (and I'm not talking head shots either). It depends on how close you need to be. Sometimes it's the only lens that can get me the compression I want. There are also times I've felt a lot safer shooting 75 and the distance it brings (and would have used a 90 if I'd had one :))

 

It's all what you prefer: personally, I generally skip the 50s and go straight from the 35 to the 75 on the M8.

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Personally I love the 50 on the M8 - f/2 or f/1.4. The couple of times I have been without one due to servicing (right now being one of them) I've gone through withdrawal. I can do some of the things I want with a 90, but the 50 really is a sweet spot for compactness, aperture speed, and ease of focusing while allowing background blur/separation. Just before my film era ended I had come to the conclusion that the 75 was the sweet spot for rangefinder short tele work (except maybe with an M3) for the same reasons - and on the M8, 50 is the new 75.

 

NB. I never used a 50 on film, always a 35 + 75/85. 28 + 50 is the M8 equivalent.

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{snipped} Just before my film era ended I had come to the conclusion that the 75 was the sweet spot for rangefinder short tele work (except maybe with an M3) for the same reasons - and on the M8, 50 is the new 75.

 

{snipped}

 

Except the magnification isn't quite the same with the 50 as it is on the 75.

 

FWIW, I find myself shooting the 50 a lot on film (or a full-frame digital).

 

As I mentioned before, I also make an exception for the Nocti--shot here through the crowd on a dance floor at f1 and 1.2-- (when my D3 with a 1.4 50mm had stopped focusing reliably.... yes, it was that dark, and I don't use "focus assist" on the d3) :) (FYI the light was from a couple off-camera flashes I set up and triggered with a PW...)

 

I still wish it was a little bit "fuller frame," though...

 

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