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Adox Ortho 25


nugat

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CMS20 is an orthochromatic micro film from Gevaert. In fact an iso 10 film but with the special speed enhanced developer and working in very low contrast (like POTA), you can use it around iso 15-20.

 

CMS20 is an orthopanchromatic film from ADOX (ISO 20 in their developer). They also make an orthochromatic film Adox Ortho 25. All at www.adox.de"

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an example adox cms 20 shot and a 100% crop.

Summicron 50mm (1973).

Scanned by Nikon 5000.

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And here a shot and 100% crop of Adox Ortho 25.

Heliar 15mm.

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OK guys, I've moved these Adox shots out of the Rollei ATP thread

 

It will make it much easier in future for people to find these examples. No problem with having separate threads about different films.

 

There's a link in the Rollei thread to this new one.

 

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Thanks for posting these images. I see you have the same problems that made me give up these films. The high magnification examples show the problem clearly, even scanned and viewed on a MacBook Pro screen. The uniform areas show how uneven the emulsion is, full of holes and and dots. Also these film show the effect of uneven development in a way normal films do not.

 

Pin-point your correct personal exposure index and your own development time and normal films will give you much more pleasant pictures, at half the price, with less fuss particularly with regard to developing - and printing is of course much easier. And you can shoot at higher speed.

 

Cheers

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The uniform areas show how uneven the emulsion is, full of holes and and dots. Also these film show the effect of uneven development in a way normal films do not.

 

 

Cheers

 

I think those "holes and dots" are , if we talk about the same thing, dust and scratches on the emulsion. There is no easy way to remove them on B&W film, such as with Digital ICE from non-hallide films. I tried recently Ortho25 and cms20 films for the purpose of getting an "archaic" look. I still plan to try the Efke film,also made by Adox. Here the " dust&scratch faults" can remain as far as I am concerned,I don't bother to remove them.

Actually I am planning to remain with two stocks for all my film uses. A color one like Velvia/Provia, and one B&W for the "archaic". I started experimenting with getting all other tastes of B&W from the transparency.

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We are often accused here of never criticising, only heaping praise. Time to break out of the mold.

 

The pictures above are interesting as images, but I think they are technically not so hot. The grey scale appears muddy and there is no spark or brilliance. I would bet $ to doughnuts that it is going to be very hard to get a picture from these films that will match the sense of light from regular mid-range films like Tri-X, HP5 or XP2.

 

At 20 ASA there are very few instances where the camera can be hand held and produce sharp pictures. There is more-or-less no possibility of utilizing the resolution of these films at shutter speeds required to expose correctly without a serious tripod. Both these pictures appear to be hand held, and relative to what the films are capable of in terms of resolution, the performance is not there. More important, it doesn't matter. These pictures do not rise or fall on whether we can read the writing on the end of the box.

 

Both these pictures would be much improved on medium speed normal film and a shutter speed of at least 125, perhaps 250 or more. And I think they would appear much sharper. They would also be, I strongly suspect, much more attractive in a reasonable sized display print (up to even 16x24). It is important to remember that we look at pictures from normal viewing distances, and the resolution provided by these "tech" films is wasted. I think we are trying to make pictures - not win the resolution sweepstakes. Nugat, these are nice pictures that are made on the wrong film IMHO.

 

All well meaning advice, I hope not offensive.

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At 20 ASA there are very few instances where the camera can be hand held and produce sharp pictures. There is more-or-less no possibility of utilizing the resolution of these films at shutter speeds required to expose correctly without a serious tripod.

 

The folks at ADOX recommend the CMS 20 be shot at f2 or larger in order to take advantage of the resolution. At that aperture one can easily shoot at 125 on a moderately sunny day, and at 250 in full sun.

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Both these pictures appear to be hand held, and relative to what the films are capable of in terms of resolution, the performance is not there. More important, it doesn't matter. These pictures do not rise or fall on whether we can read the writing on the end of the box.

 

Nugat, these are nice pictures that are made on the wrong film IMHO.

 

 

I think you are right. With 20-25 ISO at sunset, handheld, the shutter/aperture combination can present problems with sharpness. But then with the ORTHO sharpness was not my goal. I am still looking for a film with that dated, archaic look out of the can. I'll try EFKE next. I dont think the Adox CMS20 is worth the effort. The Ortho25 is closer.

But indeed the 20-25 ISO speed becomes a problem . Whatever ADOX write, it is not always that one wants to shoot at full sun or at f2.

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But indeed the 20-25 ISO speed becomes a problem . Whatever ADOX write, it is not always that one wants to shoot at full sun or at f2.

 

Of course not. It's just that those are the optimal conditions for that particular film.

 

I've shot some of the CMS, but haven't developed it yet, and also some of the Ortho, which I have developed. The latter gives some very nice results, but I wouldn't call the effect old-fashioned at all.

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Michael,

ISO 20 is easily manageable. It's only one stop and some from Velvia50. In normal outdoors sunny conditions, in the shade, one finds himself at f4@60th. This speed-aperture combination is not problematic at all. I use Adox20 and find it to be very good.

 

Also, I don't think that Trix, hp5 or any other film would have improved those pictures. No way.

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I agree with NB. I find that shooting CMS 20 is no big deal throughout the spring and summer. The film offers us some rich blacks, subtle creams and beautiful mid-tones, even though the film is mostly known for its amazing resolution, I like these other qualities even more.

 

2493436763_b80e6ddee3_b.jpg

 

2348547738_60bd3c1f30.jpg

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Some more Adox CMS 20 images:

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2348547738_60bd3c1f30.jpg

 

Sweeet pic.. reminds me of year 1899 :)

 

 

 

I have thought to test CHS 25. How does it compare to CMS? (ok I know it is ortho, what else?) I like chs because the grain is same as Trix, Hp5. You know no rektangular grain. I have some Retro 100 left and I think I can try go to lower iso.

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I would think the shutter on those is 1/4 or 1/8?

 

1/30 (or maybe a little longer) with f1 to f2. I tried to move the camera along with the subject, e.g. second image.

 

Best regards, Christoph

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