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M8 & Summilux 35mm


leffe

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Are you sure this wasn't just backfocus (which is distinct from focus shift)? My 50 ASPH used to backfocus very noticeably between F1.4-F2.8 (at smaller apertures the DOF kicked in to overcome the backfocus error). Leica eventually fixed it and it is pretty much spot-on at F1.4. I haven't noticed any focus shift as you close down the aperture.

 

It was in focus at f1.4 and drifted out of focus between f2 - f5.6.

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I've just sent my 35mm Summilux back to Leica with two bodies for upgrades and 4 other lenses in the hope they can do something with it because it otherwise remains an unsatisfactory lens.

 

In this thread, http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/63879-leicas-new-home.html#post659140, I showed some pictures of the new Leica Park I took in September where one of the other ACM companies was listed, Uwe Weller Feinwerk Technik (Uwe Weller Feinwerktechnik, Wetzlar). Browse their web-site and you can see they make machined parts for Leica, including this view of the first Tri-Elmar (MATE) - Weller-Feinwerktechnik - and some other parts for R lenses.

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The Nocti has the opposite character to the 50 Lux--and yes, these days its probably a marriage breaker for many people!

 

Jamie,

 

I am talking about the new Noctilux, which if we are to believe the Leica blurb, nearly turns into a 50 ASPH Lux from f2 onwards, so you would get the best of both worlds. I had a series 2 f1 Noctilux before and although I loved the results, unfortunately I just could not use it comfortably with my damaged hands, so passed it on to another forum member. I tried the new Noctilux at Photokina and with its slightly smaller diameter, longer length and shorter focus throw, dangerously for my wallet, I could manage it just fine.

 

Wilson

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Jamie,

 

I am talking about the new Noctilux, which if we are to believe the Leica blurb, nearly turns into a 50 ASPH Lux from f2 onwards, so you would get the best of both worlds. {snipped}

 

Ah yes--the new Nocti! I had blocked it from my brain for some reason :)

 

 

@ Mark--sorry to hear about your trouble with the 35 Lux. Interestingly enough, Solms did very, very good things for both my used 50 Lux and new Noctilux on the M8; they're both essentially perfect now. So let us know what happens!

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I have a 6 bit coded Lux which I really love. When I first picked it up, I was really grumbling about the focus shift issues after a few weeks of usage as it screws up my pictures. Having probed it with two other M8 bodies and I concluded that my sensor or lens bayonet mount is probably out of alignment. The body has since been rectified by Solms and it's perfect all over again.

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Here is a set of images to compare to those shown earlier by mmk60. These were shot at .7 meters. Perhaps there is some focus shift here since after a few stops the DOF arguably extends a good bit more than twice as far to the rear as to the front. But I would say it isn't too bad because my take on these pictures is that:

 

1. Stopping down always improves the sharpness in the intended focal plane.

2. The intended focal plane is never much less sharp than the sharpest spot in the image. I'm not sure if it is the indeed the sharpest, but it is close.

3. Areas at the front edge of the DOF always get sharper at the next stop. So stopping down provides some protection against mis-focus even if the error is to focus behind the intended plane.

 

The order is f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8. For those who are or have been unahppy with luxes in the past, I'm curious if you agree that my photos show an acceptable lens. Were/are your lenses worse or do I simply have lower standards?

 

BTW, my 35 lux is titanium for those curious about the claimed distinction between titanium and black lenses.

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Here is a set of images to compare to those shown earlier by mmk60. These were shot at .7 meters. Perhaps there is some focus shift here since after a few stops the DOF arguably extends a good bit more than twice as far to the rear as to the front. But I would say it isn't too bad because my take on these pictures is that:

 

1. Stopping down always improves the sharpness in the intended focal plane.

2. The intended focal plane is never much less sharp than the sharpest spot in the image. I'm not sure if it is the indeed the sharpest, but it is close.

3. Areas at the front edge of the DOF always get sharper at the next stop. So stopping down provides some protection against mis-focus even if the error is to focus behind the intended plane.

 

The order is f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8. For those who are or have been unahppy with luxes in the past, I'm curious if you agree that my photos show an acceptable lens. Were/are your lenses worse or do I simply have lower standards?

 

BTW, my 35 lux is titanium for those curious about the claimed distinction between titanium and black lenses.

 

I have an early black 35 lux ASPH, and it exhibits almost exactly the same performance on my M8's. In terms of actual shooting, this is almost perfect performance. My 50 ASPH has, if anything, less focus shift and my 75 lux just slightly more, but also well within useable tolerances. My Noct (v2) is spot on at f/1 and just fine at f/5.6 and smaller, and the mid apertures aren't used anyway. So OK.

 

Focus shift in its 'pure' form, ie, independent of lens mount, RF camming and camera adjustment, should not vary due to sample variation since it's almost wholly design dependent. So if you experience focus shift in these lenses which is greater than that shown in this fine example, it's probably due to lens camming/camera RF adjustment issues and should be correctible.

 

Henning

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Does anybody have experience with the Summilux Aspherical 35 mm on the M8? Does it also have focus shift ? Mine is uncoded. Is it necesasary to code it, when you use it with a IR filter? Many thanks in advance.

Dominique

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Does anybody have experience with the Summilux Aspherical 35 mm on the M8? Does it also have focus shift ? Mine is uncoded. Is it necesasary to code it, when you use it with a IR filter? Many thanks in advance.

Dominique

 

I must have missed something. I thought that was what what this thread and 327 other similar ones was discussing.

 

Coding is very desirable or you will get cyan corners. The wider the lens the more evident they are. 50mm and upwards not so necessary.

 

Wilson

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Does anybody have experience with the Summilux Aspherical 35 mm on the M8? Does it also have focus shift ? Mine is uncoded. Is it necesasary to code it, when you use it with a IR filter? Many thanks in advance.

Dominique

 

The Summilux Aspherical (first version, not the Asph. one) can not be coded by Leica. I sent mine in and it was returned.I do not experience focus shift that is annoying. I usually shoot at f 1.4. I do use a Leica UV/IR filter. The combination works well.

Teddy

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