21mm f4.5 Zeiss on M8 ?

[AndrejK]

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I recently bought the Zeiss Biogon 21/4.5 from Popflash with the correct mount for M8 (brings 28mm framelines). It does have the new type of mount with a small recess, so the hand coding does not wear off. Also, there is no screw head in the code area.

I coded it using M-Coder which works perfectly every time for me (I coded 28 mm Biogon and C-Sonnar before).

I did a little experimentation using all 3 different codes for the 21/4.5 Biogon: codes for the Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8 ASPH. and the Summilux-M 21mm f/1.4 ASPH. seem to over-correct, so the corners show a little bit of magenta. The code for Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8 works best for me, the pink corners are much less a problem. I also noticed, that the last code makes the whole picture a bit warmer in colour, but my test was not controlled enough to be sure.

I noticed only after coding the new lens, that the camera LCD shows the effect of the coding (removing of the vigneting and the cyan drift) after a few seconds in preview.

 

The codes I used are here: Leica M8 Lens Codes

 

Andrej

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[rafael_macia]

I also was attracted to the 4.5 rather than the 2.8 Zeiss. I had heard among other things it was much much sharper than the 2.8. ..just what I heard .....I also liked the weight.

BUT

The problem with the 4.5 is, like mentioned above, the mount. The flange is connected to the focussing mechanism. It can be removed and be replaced, but only with extreme care. The solution by Popflash for the 4.5, to sell a 4.5 with the "correct-for-M8" mount that brings up the correct frame lines, along with the recess to keep hand coding on that .... seems the best solution.

AGAIN BUT

If one were to get the Popflash one, there would still be a problem to remove the mount for coding.

(btw ... There is no problem with the Zeiss 2.8.)

I gave up trying to figure out the 4.5 angle ... hand coding is not for me.... and just learned to live with the 18 Distagon. That one has a coded Milich bronze mount. A Milich bronze mount can be had for the 2.8 btw.

regarding prices;

When I was searching for a 21 Zeiss I came across 2.8's which were just slightly more expensive than the 4.5. Typically when found used, neither the 4.5 nor the 2.8 have the correct flange to bring up the WATE menu.

rafael

Again, I am not personally acquainted with any one of the Zeiss ZM 21mm lenses, only with 18 and 25mm. These gave no trouble with the helical. A local mechanic did the disassembly-reassembly on the 18mm lens, but I did the 25mm myself. The flange is just bolted to the main mount, and it does not engage with anything else. Nothing in the rest of the lens comes loose. But it may of course be less hard on your nerves to pay a good camera repairman (a vanishing species nowadays) to do the job and to take the responsibility. You will pay a price in money, and in some extra waiting; he will likely have a queue all the way out in the street.

 

The old man from the Age of Screwdrivers

Edited March 30, 2009 by rafael_macia

[Just Alex]

So to clarify...

 

A new ZM 21/4.5 should have the correct flange to bring up the 28mm frame lines in which case all that is needed is to code the lens with a pen or milling and painting?

 

Which lens code produces the best result?

 

Is the colour shift completely removed?

[antonio-p]

On 2/22/2009 at 5:10 PM, arthury said:

There's another way to deal with the Cyan issue. Here are the steps:

 

 

1. Code it by hand using a sharpie pen.
2. Slap the IR/UV filter on.
3. Before you release the shutter, push the Frame Selector towards the lens
4. Release the shutter

 

Using the above method, all you images will have EXIF identifying the lens as a 21mm lens and the Cyan shift will be corrected based on a 21mm lens. You do not need to replace flange, pay for it to get drilled and experience the stress and inconvenience involved.

Could you kindly post a photo of the coding done with the marker here? Thanks