rob_x2004 Posted October 22, 2006 Share #1 Posted October 22, 2006 Advertisement (gone after registration) Development adjustment anyone? Best I know is plus 50%, plus 100%. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 22, 2006 Posted October 22, 2006 Hi rob_x2004, Take a look here Anyone pushing APX400 one or two stops?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
vic vic Posted October 22, 2006 Share #2 Posted October 22, 2006 which developer??? ya.. one push with 50% is good... apx 400 is not exactly great at push unless u look for some special look on it (can be amazing special look of course) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicamann Posted October 22, 2006 Share #3 Posted October 22, 2006 Push one stop for the APX 400 is fine..remember if your dev time is extra.. add dble to the fix time... Good luck Regards, Leicamann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 22, 2006 Author Share #4 Posted October 22, 2006 Thanks guys. That is an interesting one about the fixer. I usually double fix, which would be four plus four but as I am cleaning stuff up at the time it usually runs longer. Often a fix cycle is six or eight minutes by the time I get to the tank. Never figured it hurt to over fix. Any comments there? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexi Posted October 23, 2006 Share #5 Posted October 23, 2006 .remember if your dev time is extra.. add dble to the fix time... egards, Leicamann There`s is no reason at all to double the time in the fixer when doing extended development. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicamann Posted October 25, 2006 Share #6 Posted October 25, 2006 I am afraid you misunderstood ...if your dev time is 8 min..then the fix time minimum is 16..so if I push it by 2 minutes..then I add 4..thats all This has always worked for me Regards, Leicamann Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexi Posted October 25, 2006 Share #7 Posted October 25, 2006 Advertisement (gone after registration) I am afraid you misunderstood ...if your dev time is 8 min..then the fix time minimum is 16..so if I push it by 2 minutes..then I add 4..thats all This has always worked for me Regards, Leicamann Hmm, I still don`t understand what you`re saying. Are you saying that if the development time is 8min, the fix time is 16 minutes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbretteville Posted October 25, 2006 Share #8 Posted October 25, 2006 I am afraid you misunderstood ...if your dev time is 8 min..then the fix time minimum is 16..so if I push it by 2 minutes..then I add 4..thats all John, At least you're not underfixing your films.... Not sure which fixer you're using though. The only film I fix longer than the others is T-Max where I use double the fix normal time for what ever fixer I'm using - typically 6 minutes for Agefix 1+5 at 20C. Twice the clearence time of the cut of lead is also a rule of thumb. - Carl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexi Posted October 25, 2006 Share #9 Posted October 25, 2006 Normal fixing time is twice the clearing time, wich usually are 1-1/2min. So a three minute fix is enough with fresh fix, a little more for the T-Max films. The development time and fixer time isn`t linked in any way. It doesn`t matter if you`re devloping for 3 or 30 minutes, the fixing times stays the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 25, 2006 Share #10 Posted October 25, 2006 ya i also dont understand why double the fixing time... one thing is true though - if the fixer is not fresh then u put it for a little more... i follow the iflord recomendation with fixing - 2-5 minutes. if fresh and newly made - 2 minutes.. if not i start to rise the time a little bit... but me too - dont have to thin about it too much since like rob says - i start doing other things while fixing so the film is surely been sufficiently fixed by that time :-)))))))))) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwc852 Posted October 27, 2006 Share #11 Posted October 27, 2006 ...pushing or not - any recommendations for what developer to use with APX400 ? I tried Rodinal (worked pretty well), D76 (too much grain, poor tonality) and Spur HRX2 (even @ ISO 200 a little thin). Looking forward to learning about your experience and recommendations. Christian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 27, 2006 Share #12 Posted October 27, 2006 cristian... rodinal is simply the best... i never develop this film in anything else... no id11 (like d76) no nothing... and so is with apx100 too. if u want to have really quality high speed use hp5 or trix or even tmax or delta if u like them, and of course the neopan 1600 if u like it. but apx400 is a special look, personally - i never think about it as fast film per-se... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wide.angle Posted October 28, 2006 Share #13 Posted October 28, 2006 For some reason, I heard that Agfa stopped making Rodinal. Is a good supply for it still available? Is there a good or equivalent replacement (another developer) giving equivalent results? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 28, 2006 Share #14 Posted October 28, 2006 A&O should produce Rodinal again: a&o imaging solutions Shop - B&W chemicals There are a few other para-amino phenol developers: Calbe R09 or Fomadon (Foma) R09. Results are very simular. AXP400/Rollei Retro 400 gives a special look in Rodinal but it's rather grainy. If you want shadow detail with this developer and APX400 film, you have to expose around E.I. 250. APX400 is not very flexible in real push processing. Films like Tri-X, Neopan 400 are doing much better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted October 28, 2006 Share #15 Posted October 28, 2006 ya - very true... even in israel we have no problems of rodinal, so surely in usa or europe it is ok... as robert says - some one else doing it now - a&o and also true that there are other similar products but im not femiliar.. apparently that should work too.... about the rating of apx400... also true... the apx400 is among the very few films that i may tend to pull... usually i push film a little bit at least. apx400 is great at about 200 too and has additional density which can be printed ifferently a little bit.. again.. practice is needed sicne many factors involved - especially the lighting conditions... another film that can be pulled in my taste (though not really needed) is the tri-x from 4x5 format (the one with basic 320) actually there are roll film too for it but not in small format. another great film with its unique and very sexy look to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share #16 Posted January 28, 2008 Hey I always double fix. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Antony Posted January 28, 2008 Share #17 Posted January 28, 2008 I use APX 400 but rarely push it, if I did I'd use Micorphen or DDX as these increase speed but will keep that nice tone that APX 400 is known for. One of the main reasons is that pushing increases contrast, and narrows tonal range. If you need to push then Neopan or Delta 3200 (rated 800 so really a pull) are nicer tonally, but it depends on the effect you want. Fixing as suggested is best when you double the clearing time of the leader. It is not linked to development time so pushed film has the same fixing time as normal rated. If you over fix film you can actually bleach out highlight detail although with most fixers this wouldn't be a problem with up to 3-4 times the clearing time. T-Max and other 'T' emulsions need a stronger/longer fix time to prevent 'pinkish' base colour and there are many tabular grain fixers for sale. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share #18 Posted January 28, 2008 Good point. I would rather put up with slow shutter speed and work around or incorporate that. I found APX100 would push one, two, three stops but found I couldnt reliably pull 400 a stop. The only time I pull 400 is when I get caught out with no 100. Found the 400 to be staggeringly good at handling highlights and shadows and expreme contrast. Guess it depends where you intend to use it. That feature might be lost on Euros , but here in Aus, it helps and is a get out of gaol card Trix and stuff cant deliver. ps. Didnt know that. Thanks "If you over fix film you can actually bleach out highlight detail although with most fixers this wouldn't be a problem with up to 3-4 times the clearing time." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Antony Posted January 28, 2008 Share #19 Posted January 28, 2008 If the problem is extreme contrast, then over expose and under develop is normally the way to go. I use APX 400 at 200 quite often then develop in Rodinal 1:100 for 15 mins hard to get too much contrast Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted January 28, 2008 Author Share #20 Posted January 28, 2008 Havent been the one to hundred route. What else you use that for? I only understand one plus fifty. Hang on, no I did a stand development once. Never really persevered though. By choice I would probably go 100iso push 200 in fifty. But my 400iso was getting pretty swish. Maybe I should give it another spin. Summer here is a bit hard on anything more than 100iso if you only have thousandth to go out to. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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