kenneth Posted February 8, 2009 Share #1 Posted February 8, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sorry for being dumb but I noticed the asa speed settings on the back of the M6 do not include an intermediate stop for asa 64, or do they? Alternatively, would you set at 50 asa or go to the first mark past 50 which looks to indicate a setting of 75 asa Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 8, 2009 Posted February 8, 2009 Hi kenneth, Take a look here Kodachrome 64 setting on an M6?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
KM-25 Posted February 8, 2009 Share #2 Posted February 8, 2009 It does, it goes, 50, 64, 80, 100. I set mine at 80 for better color saturation. Check out the site in my sig below for more Kodachrome related info. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richam Posted February 8, 2009 Share #3 Posted February 8, 2009 I set mine at 80 for better color saturation. Another vote for 80. I've taken hundreds of Kodachromes at 80 and got very nice saturation with minimal loss of shadow detail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
budrichard Posted February 8, 2009 Share #4 Posted February 8, 2009 The difference between an ASA setting of 64 versas 80 roughly amounts to 1/4 f stop. Do you really think that your meter/camera shutter systems are capable of that accuracy or that there is an exact single exposure for every scene/picture? I think that when you set your ASA at 80 you are deluding yourself that you are accomplishing something meaningful. To see the effect, you should bracket in 1/4 stops +- 2 stops from what you have determined by whatever means is the correct exposure. I am sure you will see that a difference between ASA 64(the correct ASA index for K64) and 80 amounts to nothing significant. BTW I use K64 almost exclusively and set my M6, M7's and Nikon SLR's at ASA 64.-Dick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richam Posted February 8, 2009 Share #5 Posted February 8, 2009 The difference between an ASA setting of 64 versas 80 roughly amounts to 1/4 f stop.Do you really think that your meter/camera shutter systems are capable of that accuracy or that there is an exact single exposure for every scene/picture? I think that when you set your ASA at 80 you are deluding yourself that you are accomplishing something meaningful. To see the effect, you should bracket in 1/4 stops +- 2 stops from what you have determined by whatever means is the correct exposure. I am sure you will see that a difference between ASA 64(the correct ASA index for K64) and 80 amounts to nothing significant. BTW I use K64 almost exclusively and set my M6, M7's and Nikon SLR's at ASA 64.-Dick ASA 64 to 80 is about .6 stop, not 1/4. My experience is with several hundreds of slides that I took some 25 years ago that were intended for projection. They were cityscapes and landscapes for the most part. The ASA 80 exposures had more saturated colors; the ASA 64 exposures were "washed out," or too light when projected. Since then, I've scanned some of the slides, and found out the ASA 80 exposures scan nicely. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KM-25 Posted February 8, 2009 Share #6 Posted February 8, 2009 ISO 64-80 is a third stop, look on the dial, two clicks in between each full value, in this case ISO 50 to 100, one stop so 64 and 80 represent thirds at least in terms of camera or handheld meters. On the calculator, 50 times 1.333333 is roughly 66, times 1.66666 is roughly 83. When one talks in terms of Kodachrome, 1/3rd is a big exposure difference. For example, Kodachrome's maximum saturation threshold is about that very amount, 1/3rd stop. So if you pin the exposure somewhere in there, you will end up with the best colors. Too dark, they mud up. Too light, they wash out real quick. Most of images in my Kodachrome gallery on Flicker are within a 1/4 stop of the center of the max saturation threshold of 1/3rd stop, metered with a handheld meter at ISO 80. If you meter precisely at ISO 80 on your handheld meter or at mid tone value or 18% gray with your in camera meter, you will be exposing the film for optimal color saturation. If you don't want that, by all means, have a field day in using a different setting. Galleries of Kodachrome at ISO 80 or 32 for KM-25: KODACHROME! - a set on Flickr The Presidential Inauguration on Kodachrome - a set on Flickr By the way, this approach works so well that not only can I sense more subtle changes in light visually without metering, I rarely even bracket anymore. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richam Posted February 8, 2009 Share #7 Posted February 8, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) ISO 64-80 is a third stop, look on the dial, two clicks in between each full value, in this case ISO 50 to 100, one stop so 64 and 80 represent thirds at least in terms of camera or handheld meters. On the calculator, 50 times 1.333333 is roughly 66, times 1.66666 is roughly 83.. I stand corrected; was thinking in terms of f stops, not film speed. 64-80 comes out at .322 stops: number of film speed stops = log[base 2] (s1/s2); where s1 and s2 are the two speeds. If you divide it out as you are suggesting, then for example, 400 to 50 would be 8 stops, whereas it's only 3. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted February 8, 2009 Share #8 Posted February 8, 2009 I ran a roll of K64 through my R3 the other day with the snow everywhere. Unfortunately in my rush to get out I set the wrong film speed Doh! I was overexposing for the snow anyway so hopefully I'll still get some useable images from the roll. Can't wait to get them back! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadHahn Posted February 9, 2009 Share #9 Posted February 9, 2009 I generally set my ASA to 100 when shooting Kodachrome 64. Back in the 90s I read something about it in Popular Photography. They said that you get very poster-like colors. I don't see that but I like the way it looks. Chad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted February 9, 2009 Share #10 Posted February 9, 2009 I've always set the ISO as 64 in the past, and would underexpose for scenes where I wanted more saturation, but this time exposed at 100, although I was overexposing for the conditions so by the sound of it I should be OK! I'll hopefully be posting a couple of images in the photo forum when the slides arrive. Quite excited as its the first time I've shot Kodachrome for years, it used to be my standard for colour film, back in the days that I liked to show slides on the big screen - must try that again too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChadHahn Posted February 9, 2009 Share #11 Posted February 9, 2009 Just last night the wife and I viewed the roll of Kodachrome I had picked up from Wal*Mart. It was only a 24 exposure roll so it went by too quickly Chad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenneth Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted February 10, 2009 ISO 64-80 is a third stop, look on the dial, two clicks in between each full value, in this case ISO 50 to 100, one stop so 64 and 80 represent thirds at least in terms of camera or handheld meters. On the calculator, 50 times 1.333333 is roughly 66, times 1.66666 is roughly 83. When one talks in terms of Kodachrome, 1/3rd is a big exposure difference. For example, Kodachrome's maximum saturation threshold is about that very amount, 1/3rd stop. So if you pin the exposure somewhere in there, you will end up with the best colors. Too dark, they mud up. Too light, they wash out real quick. Most of images in my Kodachrome gallery on Flicker are within a 1/4 stop of the center of the max saturation threshold of 1/3rd stop, metered with a handheld meter at ISO 80. If you meter precisely at ISO 80 on your handheld meter or at mid tone value or 18% gray with your in camera meter, you will be exposing the film for optimal color saturation. If you don't want that, by all means, have a field day in using a different setting. Galleries of Kodachrome at ISO 80 or 32 for KM-25: KODACHROME! - a set on Flickr The Presidential Inauguration on Kodachrome - a set on Flickr By the way, this approach works so well that not only can I sense more subtle changes in light visually without metering, I rarely even bracket anymore. Thank you for the advice. If I can get close to the results you get I will be very happy. I will need a very long lens though. I live in Yorkshire- UK ( joke). I am pleased to report having been a loyal Kodachrome user since 1967- Long may it continue Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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