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D2 catchin kids


Guest stnami

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imants - take my words with some limitations about the processing since monitor issues never go for sure...

the grey is too grey and a bit dull. either bust it with some local contrast or shift the whole grey either to darker or to brigher (which one u like more). in so many photos of yours your processing works great, but in some others it fails.

the photo itsle f is nice and very quate

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I'm not sure, Vic, because the circling motive of the 3 shirts/kids on the foreground under the oblique light gives contrast in itself. The somewhat chiaroscuro gives it a painting quality. Plus this exterior/interior feeling. There is silence in this picture. One feels compelled to linger on it.

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johan - very true.. this is why i personally would prefer the greys to be shifted a bit darker.. but it is up to imants.. a bit release in the blacks, a bit darker in the greys and within this range to create a good local contrast.. the shirt and the light will only benefit from it and the greys will be a great surface for it... the local contrast im talking can be achieved with some work with gradation curves....

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Stanmi...don't get lost. You have a fantastic image here.On PS, it looks better than on the forum, but another 20/25 brighter in midtones works much better for me. You'll lose nothing and gain detail, in the kid's faces. Best Azzo

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Yea with a bit of dodging and weaving it would get there Ivan, but it is a 72dpi image and I am starting to stretch the tonal graduations, Imants

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I especially like the second one. Vic, what is "shifting grays" and "releasing blacks" and how does one do that (in PS)? Is there an equivalent in the darkroom (I'm guessing switching to a higher contrast paper)? ...I almost didn't ask because I feel I ask too many questions some times.

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scott.. hi.. no problems man with questions:-)))

 

shifting = to take the dominant tonal range that difines the luminosity impression and to shift it all to either brighter or darker. in photoshop... u can identify where about this tonal range falls and with curves either to rise it a little or to lower it a bit. after that u can additionaly proceed some tonal adjustments for local contrast. local contrast is a contrast within a specific tonal range (for example in mid grey range, or in dark tones, or in light tones). so here u work on contrast within this range (for example, contrast the light/light tones with the light/very-ligt tones)..... all this can be done with some care with the curves. it is very recomended to master the work with the curves (even for colors on different channals).

releasing black means not to put too much dark tones into the range of full blacks or almost full blacks. sometimes it is nice, sometimes u defenetly may want to put the dark tones into the black range. here too, with curves u can control very well the local contrast and make it either contrasty in dark tones or moody and smooth within the dark tones gradation.

 

about darkroom.. the technique is slightly different... personally, i almost always print the photos from roll films (especially the 35mm format) on multigrade paper with "split printing technique". there are various methods for it but basically... u expose the initial image on very soft filtration, look that the highlights look as u want and then add to it the second exposure with hardest filtration to bring the blacks. but it is a different story :-)))))))

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it indeed has alot of room for interpretation in tonality

That's the thing about images exposed to the right there is a lot more latitude, though you do run the risk of blowing out the highlights. Sometimes I have to teach over the net in real time, I wanted to see how things were for the learner.

Thanks for your imput I got a fair bit out of this in terms of setting up short teaching stints over the net and its limitations.

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ha ha imants - sounds great to me what u say - well and very callanging as well....

the problems of monitor trust id one of the issues... the other issues is that sometimes what we talk is clear to us but might not be for others..

but i think as initial study it can work and - go go man :-))

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That's it Vic, more about giving a guide what to do on a image that is far from ideal. Too may CDs, books, online tutoring stops start with a image that given simple changes will create the desired result, it is a set up. I tried ithe process with someone who is a film photographer and knows little about digital I will see the result tomorrow as a digital print... interesting

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imants - try this ..

intresting what u say about this stuff of te net..

 

the first image comes from RAW conversion from the scanner in linear curve (48bit @gamma2.0).

the second from standard negative curve @g=1.0

 

fully calibrated monitor (of powerbook) on gamma 2.2 (for web)

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