jaapv Posted December 18, 2008 Share #1  Posted December 18, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) This new shutter has shown vast differences in users' ability to handhold slow shutter speeds, and of course there is individual variation in the steadiness of people's hands, but I have a feeling that not everybody is aware of the right way to hold an M8.  1. Hold out the left hand like you are begging (not hard after just buying Leica gear;)) 2. Hold the camera in the palm of your hand and focus with thumb and index finger. 3. Hold the camera firmly with your right hand and put your finger flat on the collar and release button. Relax that finger. You'll find that just the slightest "rolling"twitch of your finger will release the camera without shake.  The most common mistakes are a waving left elbow and above all!! a crooked index finger that does not rest on the collar around the release button. Don't jab the release!  Note that the use of a soft release will make you hold the camera less stable. It may be comfortable, but for slow shutter speeds remove it.  This, of course, works for me and is not a law for others . But it is the traditional rangefinder way, and who am I to argue with tradition ?  This is so old, that there is on copyright issue, and it is an SLR, but a Leica ( and she uses one finger too many to focus!) Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/71651-handholding-at-low-speeds-technique/?do=findComment&comment=750585'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted December 18, 2008 Posted December 18, 2008 Hi jaapv, Take a look here Handholding at low speeds-technique. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
andybarton Posted December 18, 2008 Share #2 Â Posted December 18, 2008 With the correct method, as shown on the left, and beautifully described above , you basically make a tripod with your forearms/chest and your forehead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Alfy Posted December 18, 2008 Share #3 Â Posted December 18, 2008 Just my 2 cts: I systematically use the 2 seconds self-timer, at any speed. It avoids having to stress on staying steady, and gives enough time to make shure the horizon is straignt even after pushing on the release. Â Max Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share #4  Posted December 18, 2008 Just my 2 cts: I systematically use the 2 seconds self-timer, at any speed. It avoids having to stress on staying steady, and gives enough time to make shure the horizon is straignt even after pushing on the release. Max That is exactly the point;You don't ever push the release, you just twitch your finger. If your horizon tilts, or even you lose the slightest bit of steadiness when you release the shutter, you are jabbing. Of course your trick works well, but isn't one of the features of the M8 a zero shutter delay? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Lea Posted December 18, 2008 Share #5 Â Posted December 18, 2008 Do you find that a camera grip helps? Or a leather case? If so, which would you recommend? Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share #6 Â Posted December 18, 2008 The Leica Camera grip helps a lot, and I have put grippy leather on the cameras, which helps a bit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Luis D Posted December 18, 2008 Share #7 Â Posted December 18, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I compared my M8 (and a new one brought by the Leica rep) to an M8.2 and took numerous shots, then pixel peeped them later at home. 2-3 stops more handholding ability with the M8.2 (and no, not with the delay option activated!). I hold the camera correctly and my stance and breathing techniques are those recommended in textbooks and workshops. In particular, when taking a number of shots sequentially (not necessarily in continuous mode, just one upon the other) the M8.2 lack of jolt or kick makes an astounding difference. It is the difference between rapid firing a .22 versus a .380, for those who are familiar with guns. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted December 18, 2008 Share #8  Posted December 18, 2008 Do as a sniper does: Use sling support. That will gain you at least one speed and often enough two.  The old man from the Age of the Steyr SSG Übrigens bin ich der Meinung dass die m9 muss wettersicher sein Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nryn Posted December 18, 2008 Share #9 Â Posted December 18, 2008 I just got my M8 back from NJ with an upgraded shutter, and in my small experimentation I can say that the new shutter seems to be helping me with slow shutter speeds. Prior to the upgrade I was able to take a decently sharp photo at 1/15 sec. I can now reduce that to 1/8 sec and can even take an acceptably sharp photo at 1/4 sec. I've tried on several occasions over the last few days. Â But yes, technique is much more important than hardware. The self-timer is a good approach as well. Â I have my own technique for long exposure portrait shots (for which the raised left elbow is unavoidable); wondering if there are any photos in your arsenal of the "certified" approach, Jaap? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share #10  Posted December 18, 2008 I just got my M8 back from NJ with an upgraded shutter, and in my small experimentation I can say that the new shutter seems to be helping me with slow shutter speeds. Prior to the upgrade I was able to take a decently sharp photo at 1/15 sec. I can now reduce that to 1/8 sec and can even take an acceptably sharp photo at 1/4 sec. I've tried on several occasions over the last few days. But yes, technique is much more important than hardware. The self-timer is a good approach as well.  I have my own technique for long exposure portrait shots (for which the raised left elbow is unavoidable); wondering if there are any photos in your arsenal of the "certified" approach, Jaap?  As it happens, in the low-light thread, meant as ISO 2500 illustration, but still, 1/6th. It was a bit windy too http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m8-forum/70385-very-low-light-stuff-7.html#post752324 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanG Posted December 18, 2008 Share #11 Â Posted December 18, 2008 Â ...But yes, technique is much more important than hardware. The self-timer is a good approach as well. Â Â Technique is extremely important. Set your camera at 1/4 second and shoot the same image over and over and see how your movement varies. I doubt if the shutter is making much difference, but the way you hold the camera and press the release will. The biggest advance in this has been IS which is something the Leica lacks and needs. With IS and good technique, one can get very sharp results hand held with a 50mm focal length as low as a full second on an SLR. Mirror slap and all. So hardware is important too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share #12  Posted December 18, 2008 I just got my M8 back from NJ with an upgraded shutter, and in my small experimentation I can say that the new shutter seems to be helping me with slow shutter speeds. Prior to the upgrade I was able to take a decently sharp photo at 1/15 sec. I can now reduce that to 1/8 sec and can even take an acceptably sharp photo at 1/4 sec. I've tried on several occasions over the last few days. But yes, technique is much more important than hardware. The self-timer is a good approach as well.  I have my own technique for long exposure portrait shots (for which the raised left elbow is unavoidable); wondering if there are any photos in your arsenal of the "certified" approach, Jaap?  Ok, just to prove consistency. I shot a consecutive series of five shots at 1/4th handheld with a 35 mm lens. There are minor variations in softness, but all are acceptable: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/71651-handholding-at-low-speeds-technique/?do=findComment&comment=751230'>More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share #13  Posted December 18, 2008 And, a shot at 1/2 sec. Not one of a series, just a single shot: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/71651-handholding-at-low-speeds-technique/?do=findComment&comment=751235'>More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share #14  Posted December 19, 2008 And here you have :  YES  and  NO Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/71651-handholding-at-low-speeds-technique/?do=findComment&comment=751243'>More sharing options...
eudemian Posted December 19, 2008 Share #15 Â Posted December 19, 2008 I would still quibble with your Yes shot, I think it is better to lay your finger over the shutter release, with the tip resting on the speed dial, that way a slight flexing of the finger is enough to fire the shutter and there is little, or no downward pressure on the camera. Â At least that is what I am trying at the moment and it seems to work. Â Others will doubtless disagree. Â Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted December 19, 2008 Author Share #16 Â Posted December 19, 2008 Yes, that works quite well too, Tom. And what other posters mention, breathing technique. Deep in, deep out, hold and shoot. Put your feet apart for a stable stance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eudemian Posted December 19, 2008 Share #17 Â Posted December 19, 2008 I really like your description of the correct way to hold the M camera. I think that holding the hand with the palm outstretched is a poetic way of understanding what we do, begging that the shot will be worthwhile. Â I still practise like mad trying to get my technique up to scratch, I find that I get lazy and the elbow wanders out from the body, this is a very worthwhile thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
glenerrolrd Posted December 19, 2008 Share #18 Â Posted December 19, 2008 Very interesting thread. I seem to remember that Leica included these recommendations in the little red instruction books. How do you hold the camera in the verticle(portrait) position. Years back we used to drop the shutter release to the bottom as this keeps the elbows in. Â Roger Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gfspencer Posted December 19, 2008 Share #19 Â Posted December 19, 2008 Do you find that a camera grip helps? Or a leather case? If so, which would you recommend?Peter A camera grip helps me. Unfortunately I often hold my camera like the picture on the right. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted December 19, 2008 Share #20  Posted December 19, 2008 3. Hold the camera firmly with your right hand and put your finger flat on the collar and release button. Relax that finger. Boy, that R3 silver is a pretty camera!   Jaap--I use a slight modification to your finger position that may also work for others: Instead of placing the finger tip flat on the shutter release, I place my first joint on the release. I fire the camera by simply straightening the finger at that joint. (This works well with the M, less so with other equipment.)  Oops--I see Tom already suggested this while I was working on this post.  Although Leica includes a "Here's how" picture in the M8 manual (below), the "Not this way" picture above is very helpful, as is your explanation. In addition, those shots show one of us rare normal left-eyed people!  ... How do you hold the camera in the verticle(portrait) position. ... Roger--here's Leica's suggestion from the M8 manual: Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/71651-handholding-at-low-speeds-technique/?do=findComment&comment=751274'>More sharing options...
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