please help me getting started with film developing

[fotohuis]

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http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/TAS_Flyer_D.pdf

 

Who has a Leica for B&W can also pay for this.....

 

Heiland electronic GmbH, Splitgrade®, StopClock, Analyzer, WinSens, WinSean, Densitometer, Test-Systeme, Schaltuhren

[fotohuis]

APX 400 (new) = Rollei Retro 400 is exactly 13:00 min. E.I. 250-320. Rodinal 1+50 and will just fit in a (standard) developer tank with the (real) minimum amount of concentrate / film (5,5 - 6ml), 135-36 or 120 roll film.

 

http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/Development_Rollei%20films.pdf

[fotohuis]

Voila: (APX 400 / Rodinal)

 

It's not mine, I am just running a Czech model agency not a (Dutch) coffee shop (yet)

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[alw]

Is the information on the Rodinal info sheet false then, or written for the old version?

Anyway, no developing for me today as I cannot fit the film into the "professional" metal spirals!

[fotohuis]

Yes: WRONG OLD AGFA Data. Gamma is over 0.85 then......

Corrected on the new bottles " R09 one shot" and hopefully also Fomadon R09 (NEW).

 

Forget the metal spirals, why not a Jobo 1510 or 1520? They are loading in an easy way, clean easy and spare parts (Red lid, funel, seperate spirals etc.) are available.

Metal = metal ions unless you pacify with a strong acid first and this CAN give trouble with Ascorbic Acid developers like Xtol, sensitive low contrast document developers (RLC) when you have already some (metall) ions in your tap water.

 

Keep it simple and do not believe everything which you can read on the web

Do not squeege your films, take the right (high) dilution of wetting agent and when necessary use DEMI-water for your development and wetting agent dilution to prevent developing problems, drying marks and stripes on your valuable Leica negatives......

[alw]

Yep, I need to ditch those metal spirals (I got them for free, now I know why:) ) although the professional photographers/lab technicians told me how superior they are.

Oh well, off to buy some plastic ones.

[fotohuis]

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Well, you CAN use them, but they are loading in a quiet different way. It's not so easy when starting your own development and if they are older the spirals had to be pacified again in sulfuric acid.

 

But the type developer tank is personal. Some like Paterson (Plastic), some Jobo (Plastic), A&P (Plastic), Hewes/Kindermann (Metall) . I like Jobo because the necessary volume is rather low: 1510: 250ml, 1520: 485ml, let's say 500ml but 550ml 1+50 Rodinal, is also possible to fit in. 1+100, a large one almost 1000ml.

1540=1510+1530.

 

Maybe I have to write a good book somehow: Cz modelling and developing technique.

[alw]

At least the Jobos are by far the best looking ones!

But I try to use the metal tanks I have - let´s see if I can fit the new plastic ones to them.

[jacksparrow]

Hey,

I don't know if someone has already given this link, but it was very useful to me when I first tried to do my own developing.

 

Fecal Face - How To Process B+W Film

 

you can always look for some youtube videos, they are sometimes very helpful too. At least I could find one who showed how to load the reel (which is far from natural in the steel ones). I'd recommend plastic reel!

 

e

[alw]

Boy, this guy uses the dreaded steel spirals and won´t even show how to use them! I spent enough time today trying to fill the damned things and I at least knew how it SHOULD be done.

What a relief that my local vendor had one Kaiser tank left on the shelf!

[junglehs]

I love you guys. So much information. In such a short time.

 

Thanks again. I will start my project this weekend. Will post some examples when I have them...

 

 

All the best,

Al.

[haris]

I have Paterson and Jobo tanks. I prefer Jobo, for me is easier and faster to put rubber lid off and on. On the other side Paterson is better (for me) for pouring chemistry in and out. But, still, I prefer Jobo.

[junglehs]

So I got all the neccessary stuff. I will shoot 25 rolls of tri-x 400 to get some experience. I decided to listen to you guys and stay with one setup for these 25 rolls. One more question: I ordered x-tol developer. Should I do this for my first batch or should I get rodinal? What is the difference? Thanks for all the input. Greetings, Al.

[fotohuis]

A big difference:

 

Xtol (Ascorbic Acid) must be used within 4-6 months otherwise it can have a "sudden death" and you can not see this on the color. Not so sharp but by dilution 1+1 more sharpness.

 

It's very sensitive for metal ions in the (tap) water so if working with this developer: Demi-water to prevent problems and dump it after 5-6 months (no risk then). You will have box speed.

 

Rodinal (Para-amino phenol). Pronounced (but regular) grain but very sharp. Around iso 250-320 with Tri-X (400).

It's a liquid developer and only this liquid will amost last forever which is normally not the case of most other developers. Most suitable with slow and medium speed films: iso 25-200, but it's also always what you like or not

[junglehs]

Thanks Fotohuis for the info.

So which developer would you buy to get a nice classic look and to gain experience for my first 25 rolls of TRI-X 400?

[andym911]

Al

not wanting to hijack your question but I would try HC110..a superb combination IMO.

 

Good luck

 

Andy

[junglehs]

Thanks Andy - I'll check it out, next.

 

A.

[fotohuis]

So which developer would you buy to get a nice classic look

 

It's up to you, but I like Rodinal because I like sharp negatives and some grain is OK to me.

[alw]

I developed my first films (APX400+Rodinal) yesterday and was a bit disappointed with heavy grain, lack of shadow detail. Reasons:

 

1. Rodinal pronounces grain.

2. Agfa APX400 is rather grainy.

3. Agfa in Rodinal is not 400ASA which means I practically push-processed it by one stop - giving more grain.

 

I´ll try other films next and will get Kodak HC-110 for high-speed films. I´ll save Rodinal for lower speed films.

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[fotohuis]

Yes, APX400 and Rodinal gives a lot of grain.

Further this film has about iso 250 in Rodinal and is difficult to push. Same is valid for Fomapan 400. Iso 200 in Rodinal and difficult to push.

 

Tri-X (400) push fine, even till iso 1250-1600 in the Diafine two bath developer, a very good combination.

Also the classical D76 combi is nice (iso 400-800) and in Rodinal, it also looks OK but at a much lower iso rate.

 

What you want is what you get. But it's always a matter of taste.

 

But for Rodinal in general: Suitable for slow and medium speed classical (cubical type) films.(iso 25-200, especially in 35mm). Use slow agitation to keep the grain under control with Rodinal.