junglehs Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share #61 Posted April 2, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Thank you so much for the input, guys. I will try it again this weekend with with Bernd's technique. Another question: I used the Kodak wetting agent then a water rinse, then photoflo and another water rinse. Is this correct? Isn't the wetting agent the same as using photoflo to get rid of the water before drying?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 Hi junglehs, Take a look here please help me getting started with film developing. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
stunsworth Posted April 2, 2009 Share #62 Posted April 2, 2009 Yes, they're the same thing. I only use 3-4 drops per film. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted April 3, 2009 Share #63 Posted April 3, 2009 First a thourough film wash (10-15 minutes) or use the Ilford method and then as the last step the wetting agent (=photoflo) indeed only a few drops. This is for preventing stripes and drying marks. Too much wetting agent is causing stripes and too little is not working to prevent it. The right dose depends a bit on the hardness of your tap water. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted April 3, 2009 Share #64 Posted April 3, 2009 I think my bigger problem was that I did not swipe the film properly off. I need to get a sponge or something. Never touch wet film. The last thing you should do is a rince in a wetting agent (Photoflo or Ilford has an equivalent), then hang to dry away from dust and drafts. Do not wipe the film with anything. Never touch wet film. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted April 3, 2009 Share #65 Posted April 3, 2009 Indeed, touching a wet film is asking for problems related to scratches. If your water is very hard you can use demi- water for the last step with the wetting agent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted April 3, 2009 Share #66 Posted April 3, 2009 I live in a soft water area, but alway use still, bottled water for my final photo-flow rinse. I always dry the film by hanging at an angle, so that the water that does run, goes the short distance to the sprockets and then does as little harm as possible. I hang the film in a clean room, over a radiator, at this time of year, or behind a glazed door if during the summer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglehs Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share #67 Posted April 3, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) So to clarify: I should either use Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent OR Photo-flo 200 right? Not both? Which one should I eliminate then? Or is it better to use both? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted April 3, 2009 Share #68 Posted April 3, 2009 You don't need to use both. Either will do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted April 3, 2009 Share #69 Posted April 3, 2009 I always dry the film by hanging at an angle, so that the water that does run, goes the short distance to the sprockets and then does as little harm as possible That's the best way to prevent any stripes. HCA is to speed up the wash procedure. But 30-50% shorter on 10-15 Minutes film wash is not that spectacular. When doing fiber prints (wash cycle is 40-60 minutes ) it's a bigger advantage. A wetting agent (Photo flo) or simmilar products (H10, Amaloco, Agfa Agepon, Tetenal Mirasol) is for preventing drips and stripes on your film and should be the final bath for your film. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglehs Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share #70 Posted April 3, 2009 so you dont rinse after photoflo? just the bath and then hanging? Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted April 3, 2009 Share #71 Posted April 3, 2009 Exactly! Your film developing sequence: 1) Developer (time depending on film and developer and temperature, normally around 20 degrees C.) 2) Stop bath 30S 3) Fixer bath (Fix time=2x clear time for classical cubical films, 3x for T grain type film) 4) Film wash , clean tap water (10-15 minutes) 5) Wetting agent (1 minute) 6) Drying (see above tips) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpattison Posted April 3, 2009 Share #72 Posted April 3, 2009 (edited) I "make" my own de-ionised water, in a de-humidifier that has to be emptied whenever the 5 litre tank is full. It runs in my cellar. So, I just get what I need from there. I use it for all parts of the processes (B&W and E6) It is a byproduct, not the raison d'être of the de-humidifier! John Edited April 3, 2009 by jpattison Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Hiles Posted April 4, 2009 Share #73 Posted April 4, 2009 You don't need to use both. Either will do. I have to respectfully disagree. HypoClearing Agent is used to make washing out fixer both faster and more effective. It is not a necessity, but is quite good idea. Without it effective washing takes longer. Photoflo helps eliminate drying spots. It also is not necessary, but the difference in spotless negatives is remarkable. I recommend both. One does not replace the other. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted April 4, 2009 Share #74 Posted April 4, 2009 True. My error. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted April 4, 2009 Share #75 Posted April 4, 2009 Sequence with H.C.A. : 1) Developer (time depending on film and developer and temperature, normally around 20 degrees C.) 2) Stop bath 30S 3) Fixer bath (Fix time=2x clear time for classical cubical films, 3x for T grain type film) 4) Film wash , clean tap water (2 minutes) 5) HCA (1 minute) 6) Film Wash, clean tap water (5 minutes) 7) Wetting agent (1 minute) 8) Drying (see above tips) Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted April 4, 2009 Share #76 Posted April 4, 2009 I live in a soft water area, but alway use still, bottled water for my final photo-flow rinse. Bottled water may still contain minerals. I use distilled/de-ionised water for the final rinse - you can buy it at most car maintenance shops in 5 litre containers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted April 8, 2009 Share #77 Posted April 8, 2009 I too, am going to try developing my own film. I last did it about 23 years ago in college and even had my own darkroom as a teenager. Hopefully it'll come back to me <grin>. After trying a bunch of tanks and reels back then, I settled on the Paterson system; the film seemed to load on these the easiest. The hint that a few people gave about snipping the corners is A+. The film loads faster and without snags. Buy or use a roll of cheap film (unused, don't want to waste good pictures) and try it in the light. Cut off the snipped part and do it again... and again. I came across a book the other day that I think is fabulous! "The Darkroom Cookbook, Third Edition" by Steve Anchell is a great guide to developing with different chemicals and processes. Unlike most of the other darkroom books, this one was published late last year (2008) and so is still current. Amazon.com: The Darkroom Cookbook, Third Edition: Steve Anchell: Books Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted April 8, 2009 Share #78 Posted April 8, 2009 so you dont rinse after photoflo? just the bath and then hanging? After the wetting agent rinse I shake off as much water as possible from the film and then dunk the film spiral very quickly in distilled water. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
junglehs Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share #79 Posted May 5, 2009 So here is my status report. I learned how to load the jobo rolls in the dark. Everything went smooth. After phil unsworth told me that I can eliminate photoflo, I tried it with wetting agent as the last step after washing. Now my problem was that the films looked very dirty. I guess some of the chemicals did not go off. Looks like a mess. I tried to wash of the mess, dry then wet. It got worse and worse. Anyway. You live and learn. It was so frustrating. I had some good shots on the film. Aaaahh. I wonder if this hassle is worth it. Maybe its only worth it if you make wet prints. I am scanning the film with a coolscan 5000. Takes forever. And then this mess. So frustrating. Maybe I should emply a good photolab to develop and make a contact sheet. Then only scan the frame that I want to print. I'd still like to catalog the frames on the computer somehow. Should I get into wet printing? Is it worth it? I already have a hp 9180 printer. But my blacks never come out dark enough. Your thoughts are highly appreciated. Al. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted May 5, 2009 Share #80 Posted May 5, 2009 Well, film development is not really rocket science so maybe time to look over the shoulder of a more experienced person. You're invited in Ravenstein. Otherwise I am sure there is somebody in the neighbourhood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.