rob_x2004 Posted October 13, 2008 Share #21 Posted October 13, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I strike problems in the winter when development times are out round fifteen sixteen minutes. When I say trouble I mean scanning becomes a problem with the negative curl and the thick blacks. I dont know (but doubt) whether an enlarger would have difficulty with the negs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 13, 2008 Posted October 13, 2008 Hi rob_x2004, Take a look here Anyone using D76. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
osscat Posted October 14, 2008 Share #22 Posted October 14, 2008 This image was made using TriX developed in D76 1-1 I gave the film a 1minute water bath 20C(with wetting agent) and then 30 second gentle initial inversion agitation, followed by very, very gentle inversion agitation 10 secs per minute for total of 11.5 mins 20C. This was a test in made in 1979 to see if the exposure/development method suited my Durst 601 with a Colour Head. I thought that photographing into the sun in a snowy urban landscape would be a reasonable challenge. I stuck with the same method and enlarger until I went digital with the Digilux2. As regards ID11 - there is a subtle difference in the recipe between ID11 and D76. I found D76 had the edge across the range of exposure, lighting etc. This is the nearest image to hand, it was created from a small print, scanned on an Epson 4180 flatbed and processed initially in Elements 3. Osscat Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/64895-anyone-using-d76/?do=findComment&comment=684260'>More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 14, 2008 Share #23 Posted October 14, 2008 I strike problems in the winter when development times are out round fifteen sixteen minutes. When I say trouble I mean scanning becomes a problem with the negative curl and the thick blacks. I dont know (but doubt) whether an enlarger would have difficulty with the negs. Why do you have problems in the winter only? Do you process outside in the yard, or something? Is the temperature control in your house not sufficient to maintain an even temperature for 1/4 hour? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share #24 Posted October 14, 2008 Why do you have problems in the winter only? Do you process outside in the yard, or something? Is the temperature control in your house not sufficient to maintain an even temperature for 1/4 hour? Andy I was wondering the same thing. Try turning the heat up or putting the developer in a tub/sink/bucket of warm to hot water for a while. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
osscat Posted October 14, 2008 Share #25 Posted October 14, 2008 Using a daylight bag, it is possible to load bulk film onto cassettes as well onto the film spiral of a daylight developing tank and all in the comfort of one's warmest room. A large washing up bowl filled with water at 20C will maintain the temperature of the developer in the daylight tank while tootsies warm merrily by the fire. Glass measuring jars take up the heat from warm water much more quickly than perspex ones, making it less tiresome to achieve the correct temperature. Osscat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
usefeet Posted October 14, 2008 Share #26 Posted October 14, 2008 I found curling varies with the humidity of the day. Having a bowl of water in the room helps on a dry day (got this advice from a film lab). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don'tknowmuch Posted October 14, 2008 Share #27 Posted October 14, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Do you know I think I've been a bit rough with my developing. I like the sound of gentle agitation and prolonged pre-soaking... I shall treat the developing with more care and less wham bam thank you mam! I will try to understand what is happening with the emulsion/developer interface and maybe I'll get somewhere towards getting the tones I always expect but rather rarely achieve. I also think I tend to underexpose the neg and need to get braver with letting the light do the work. I apologise if this is little to do with the thread title, but it certainly comes from having looked at it. Jim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shootist Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share #28 Posted October 14, 2008 I also think I tend to underexpose the neg and need to get braver with letting the light do the work.Jim. I always try to overexpose by 1/2-1 stop as that seems to give me the negative I'm looking for. The only time I don't is if I'm in a rush or the lighting and lens don't allow it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 14, 2008 Share #29 Posted October 14, 2008 Gee some people. I strike problems, I dont have problems. If I let the development times go out then I strike problems with negatives density and negative curl. Obviously I do something about it. My enquiry was with regard to sodum sulphate and whether it was something one could add to cold mixes to stop the emulsion swelling and the associated developer affect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
osscat Posted October 14, 2008 Share #30 Posted October 14, 2008 Film emulsion is a suspension of chemicals in gelatin, coated on a celluloid base. The gelatin (animal product) is the only viable medium for an even spread of silver halide grains - when placed in a solution of developing agents in water the gelatin expands, in doing so it draws in the developer. Every so often the developing agent becomes exhausted and needs to be replenished, hence agitation of the film in the developer. Vigorous agitation accelerates the process of development and can lead to 'clumping' of the grain and generally uneven development. Naturally, when the developing time is up, the developing chemicals need to be neutralized, which is where the fix comes in, this too needs to be forced through the gelatin emulsion by regular agitation. The fix itself then has to be washed out thoroughly. The now soft gelatin negative needs to be dried - if this is done too quickly and at too high a temperature the bond between the gelatin and the cellulose base breaks down - as it will if the developer or fix is too hot (e.g. Robert Cappa D.Day). Furthermore as the gelatin dries it shrinks, causing the cellulose to curl slightly. Dry too hot and the film almost becomes a tube - the best way to dry is in cool air, this allows the film to gently return to its original shape before exposure. Control throughout the whole photographic process is essential, as is an understanding of its mechanics. Hope that helps. Osscat Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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