Which B&W film

[kenneth]

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What B&W film do you favour and do you find that some film suits earlier Leica lenses whereas other film stock is more suited to modern optics?

[christer]

Please excuse me for not answering your question directly.

 

Jumping from one film to another is not a very good. Anyhow, the choice today is much more limited than only ten years ago. Also one should select one's film based on what is likely to be on the market tomorrow.

 

I have done quite an amount of testing and arrived at staying with Kodak T-Max. I am sure that Ilford and Fuji also make very good films, but these are not so readily available where I spend most of my time.

 

I use three developers, Xtol, Rodinal and a local brew that, I believe, is comparabel to the T-Max developer. Which of these I select is more dependent on subject than on lens used. Indeed I think that pictures made with a modern lens and with the film developed in Xtol looks more like an "earlier lens" print than does a print made the other way round (older lens and T-Max developer)

[stunsworth]

Kenneth, I tried a lot of films and finally settled on Ilford FP4, Tri-X and Fuji Neopan 1600. If I wanted a slower film I'd shoot Ilford Pan F. If Tri-X wasn't available I'd use Ilford HP5.

 

Developer was always Xtol, usually diluted 1:3.

 

I never liked the Tmax films. I found them much less forgiving in exposure and development than the ones I've listed. But that probably just reflects my sloppiness as a processor.

 

No need for a darkroom of course, just a changing bag and developing tank.

[earleygallery]

I assume that we're talking about silver films rather than C41 process? (I tend to just use colour neg and convert in PS rather than buy the C41 B&W films).

 

I've used Fuji Neopan recently 400 and 1600. They have a really 'gritty' look, and even the 400 is quite grainy. I really like them, but I would in future use them for specific shoots where I wanted such a look.

 

I've used FP4 for years, nice fine grain, and HP5. They're both excellent, and Tri X as Steve mentions. Of course it's best to try to stick to a given film so that you become fully familiar with its characteristics.

[rob_x2004]

Has anyone tried freezing Xtol? I would only want a squirt from time to time.

[stunsworth]

Try putting it into half litre bottles filled right up to the brim. I'm sure I kept some for 12 months doing that.

 

It's so cheap anyway that you can probably afford to bin what's left after six months anyway.

 

Rodinol keeps for ever of course.

[martin]

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short but realistic

100 - 125 ASA

 

ILFORD FP4 - Rodinal 1+50

Agfapan APX 100 - Rodinal 1+50

 

 

400 - 800 ASA

 

TriX 400/800 ASA - ADOX/Calbe A49

Fuji Neopan 400 - ADOX/Calbe A49

 

you only need Rodinal and A49,

A49 is like D76

A49 powder is available for 1 liter dillusion and lasts for 10 films

[rob_x2004]

Does anyone know where/which Rollei is APX100? Is there any left?

Steve I was figuring on using it with Rodinal, so the five litre would be a bit excessive. I am not sure you can split the powder, youd never be sure how it separates during transport and stuff. Maybe thats wrong?

[MPerson]

Over the last 50 years (started when I was 7) I have used many films, developers and fixers. Last year I had a massive clearout and went KISS. My only films now are:

 

50 - Adox (Efke) CHS 50 ART in Diafine (A: 3 mins + B : 3 mins)

 

100 - 400 - Plus-X (125px) in Diafine (A: 3 mins + B : 3 mins)

 

400 - 1600 Tri-X in Diafine (A: 4 mins + B : 4 mins)

 

I use water for stop and an alkaline fixer.

 

I also use Rodinal and APH09 but for stand development only and usually 1-100 for 60 mins.

[stunsworth]

I am not sure you can split the powder, youd never be sure how it separates during transport and stuff. Maybe thats wrong?

 

I wouldn't split the powder for the reasons you mention.

 

I used to use the old 1 litre packs of Xtol. I know some people had problems with those but I never did. 1 litre was much more managable.

[rogers]

I like the Fuji stock, myself. I use Neopan 400 & 1600 (usually pulled to 800); as well as Neopan 100 SS (@80). Mostly develop in HC-110 Dil. H for no particularly good reason... The last rolls of SS cost me $1.89 USD... can't complain!

[kenneth]

I assume that we're talking about silver films rather than C41 process? (I tend to just use colour neg and convert in PS rather than buy the C41 B&W films).

 

I've used Fuji Neopan recently 400 and 1600. They have a really 'gritty' look, and even the 400 is quite grainy. I really like them, but I would in future use them for specific shoots where I wanted such a look.

 

I've used FP4 for years, nice fine grain, and HP5. They're both excellent, and Tri X as Steve mentions. Of course it's best to try to stick to a given film so that you become fully familiar with its characteristics.

 

Thank you for that James. I totally agree it is best to stick with one film where possible. I have used mainly Kodachrome ASA 25 for 30 years in this country and Agfa CT18 in the Alps and on rare occasions Ilford FP4 but I am now wishing to focus more exclusively on B&W so I was trying to assess what others were finding with B&W today. I also found your comments of value regarding Fuji Neopan 400. The gritty look you comment on could be very useful at times and could be worth a try when fineness of grain is not critical. Thank you again

[andybarton]

I'm a film tart and have been experimenting with it for 30 years.

 

My current set up (if I were to restock my freezer from scratch...) would be

 

Pan F

Delta 100

Tri-X

 

I have generally used DD-X developer at 1:4 (because that's what's available on the High Street) and have been very pleased with it.

 

I always over expose and under-develop.

 

(As an aside, I was very impressed with Neopan 400, didn't find any gritiness, and would use that as a subsitute for Tri-X if I couldn't get hold of the latter)

[Vieri]

25:

- Efke 25;

 

50:

- Ilford Pan-F+

 

in PC-TEA;

 

100:

- Kodak Plus-X;

 

400:

- Kodak Tri-X;

 

1600:

- Fuji Neopan 1600;

 

in 510-Pyro;

 

both my developer are home-made brews. Most of the time, I go out with Plus-X, Tri-X in daytime, Tri-X & Neopan 1600 at night. If I know I will need 25-50, I'll bring the Efke & Ilford as well.

 

It took me a few years of experimenting to get down to this list, and I would suggest you do the same: what works for me or someone else, may not work for you. I would go by choosing a film, shooting 10-20 rolls in similar light, develop them with max 2-3 developers, and repeat with a different film. This will give you a pretty good idea about what a film-developer combination can do, and after a while you'll standardize on a few films/developers which do what you need them to.

 

Hope this helps, and good luck with your quest

[Dinas Dave]

Andy,I also use Delta 100 & Tri X.I overexpose by 2/3 stop usually for D100 and 1/3 for TriX ( and then underdevelop by about 30%).I am just about to try some Pan F for the first time in over 30 years...would speed would you recommend rating it at?

[andybarton]

The roll that I just exposed as at 32

 

We should ask Rolo - he's the master!

[StS]

As mentioned before Tmax and Delta films are more sensitive than films like FP4/APX/Tri-X

 

I would also take your processing conditions into account, especially temperature control.

 

My first films I developed in the cellar of my parents. The older technologies will give decent results even if the water is too cool (please do not use baths having different temperatures, the emulsion might get lots of small cracks, unless you are looking for this effect for artistic reasons. It will look like a film which is much too grainy).

 

Getting older, starting to tell stories from the past

 

Stefan

[Dinas Dave]

Cheers Andy...will try one tomorrow at 32

[chris_livsey]

Can I address the very interesting question posed by the OP which I'm afraid will be submerged by the "my favourite film/developer" posts, welcome and interesting though they are? That is the choice of film to compliment the age, or look I would add for modern lenses with "special characteristics" such as the Sonar 50mm C 1.5, of various lenses.

 

There is dismay in many quarters that "modern" films are less able to be "bent" to the will of the photographer in processing. There is still that possibility but it is limited as variability, for want of a better word, is being designed out. I love the T Max stock but it is in this category which is why it appears I think to receive either strong likes or dislikes.

 

I have an idea that the OP is looking for something like this:

 

Retro Photographic Ltd - Black & White Specialist Photographic Products

 

Quote

Efke films are classic high silver content single layer emulsions that produce superb tonality and gray scale.

 

The ISO 25 Efke film is the last old fashioned single layer super fine grain emulsion film being made. If you are looking for a film that will give the early to mid 20th century look than this is it. These films were designed in an era when indoor lighting was by tungsten illumination and indeed you'll get the best results with tungsten lighting.

 

Unlike modern flat crystal films which are incredibly unforgiving, even a beginner can produce quality images with these films.

 

Efke films are made using a single poured layer, the old-fashioned way and it is this process that preserves the very special qualities of the film.

Unqote

 

Perhaps though you should be looking at older developers on the same principle for a "retro" effect. There is room for research and interesting finds such as the legendary Harvey's 777. This is an interesting article which may give an insight on how to sympathetically match those "older" lenses.

 

777 Fine Grain Developer

 

I would love to follow the sage advice to really get to know one film/developer combination then stick to it but really even in these film depleted times there is so much out there to discover it seems a shame to deny oneself the adventure.

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[thomasw_]

I'm a film tart and have been experimenting with it for 30 years.

 

My current set up (if I were to restock my freezer from scratch...) would be

 

Pan F

Delta 100

Tri-X

 

Excellent film taste! Only instead of DDX, I prefer Rodinal. Less costly and I like the results