espahbodb Posted April 27, 2008 Share #1 Posted April 27, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Had anyone experienced reverse processing using Ilford FP4+, PAN 100, PAN 50 and HP5+? any success rates? and following the exact recipe given by ilford is enough? and please tell me what is the best equivelant for Bromophen (I heard Eukobrom). Can I use Tetenal's Bleachfix instead of mixing Sulphuric acid with potassium permanganate (as written in Ilford's instructions). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 27, 2008 Posted April 27, 2008 Hi espahbodb, Take a look here Ilford Reverse. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
maxspbr Posted April 28, 2008 Share #2 Posted April 28, 2008 Hello. I used to make a lot of reverse processing with Ilford, 125 ASA. The results are very very beautiful! I never used Tetenal's Bleachfix - so I really don't know what is this. But you can use bichromate instead of potassium permanganate. Just once I saw a formula without the sulphuric acid. Not sure now, but it was Chloridric Acid and bichromate, I think. But usually I use the Sulphiric Acid (a problem, because this acid is very difficult to buy. My bottle is around 40 years old! And, of course, very very dangerous to manipulate). For good results I sugest: 1- use two developers. Using the same the results are a little more difficult to get. The 2nd developer can be ever a simpler bath, as DK-50. 2- use just a few times the bleach bath! 3- the sodium sulphite bath, after the bleach, is very important! Use it only once. 4- make a few exposure tests with an exact first development time. Good luck! Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dritz Posted April 28, 2008 Share #3 Posted April 28, 2008 I am extremely happy with dr5.com for doing reversal on these films. I've pretty much standardized on HP5 and Ilford Pan. I've been using them for years and have no complaints at all on quality of processing or service. In fact, I'm waiting for another 8 rolls from them from a recent trip to Seoul. They project and scan beautifully. I hardly use anything else. Dean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
espahbodb Posted April 29, 2008 Author Share #4 Posted April 29, 2008 Thanks Martin for the tips, im looking forward to find some potassium bichromat. the thing is I can buy Mercke Sulphuric acid here very easily but the problem is the smallest amount they can give me is 2 Litres and its a 93% concentration! enough to vanish a whole city i guess. do u know the amount used for HCl? what is your developer, i have found out that Eukobrom is equivalent to Bromophen, have u tried it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxspbr Posted April 29, 2008 Share #5 Posted April 29, 2008 Thanks Martin for the tips, im looking forward to find some potassium bichromat. the thing is I can buy Mercke Sulphuric acid here very easily but the problem is the smallest amount they can give me is 2 Litres and its a 93% concentration! enough to vanish a whole city i guess. do u know the amount used for HCl? what is your developer, i have found out that Eukobrom is equivalent to Bromophen, have u tried it? 2 liters?! In fact, now you can reverse films for years and years!! About the Chloridric Acid. I just found a recipe of a reducer using HCl and bichromate. More or less the same amount than Sulphuric Acid. Maybe you can test it. But the Sulphuric Acid is the "classic" bleach, so if you can use it, do it! Using the Sulphuric Acid: Usually you will need around 2cc of acid. A tip: in another bottle, make a 10% solution of the Sulphuric Acid. Easier to manipulate, not so dangerous (BUT STILL IS! TAKE CAUTION!). And you will use 20cc every time, if you need 2cc of the pure acid. One liter will last for around 50 baths. (I don't know how is your practice about acids, so: 1- use ONLY glass do make the solutions and storage; 2- ALWAYS put the acid in the water, a lot of heat will occur; 3- to make a 10% solution put 100cc of acid in 900cc of water.) I never tried Eukobrom or Bromophen, even for negatives. I like to make my own baths, with raw chemicals. If you prefer to use ready-made developers, I would suggest to try D-76 as first developer (tried the reverse with the old formula, with metol, hidroquinone, borax (2g) and boric acid - 8g), and D-72 (or 76d again) as 2nd developer. Or ever these you wrote about. All formularies ask a fine grain as first developer, some using variations over DK-20 (very fine grain developer from the 30s). I think that you won't get much trouble with any of these developers, since you standardize exposure and time of development. The harder part is to make tests fo find the correct times of the 1st developer (with 2nd developer you can't go wrong). Regards and good luck! Martin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted April 30, 2008 Share #6 Posted April 30, 2008 You can also use the receipture of Fomapan R-100 reverse processing. It's alsmost the same: http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/F_pan_R_en.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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