Development problem?

[rmhodnett]

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Hi all, my first post here.

 

I've just started developing my own film (all of two rolls so far!), and have noticed on the last roll that the horizontal edges of the frames seems to be lighter than the rest of the image. A fairly typical example is attached (both sides are affected, but the right hand side seems worst). I'm wondering why this should be. Curiously, the very outer edges of the roll did not fix, either (where they had been in contact with the spiral) - this may or may not be related!

 

Could this be:

- Fogging, because it wasn't 100% dark when I loaded the film into the spiral, or

 

- A problem with my development process? I'm using TMax 400 film with TMax developer and fixer (and a Kodak stopbath - 30 seconds), agitating by rotation every 5 secs in every 30 while in developer, and rotating constantly while in stopbath.

 

- Or is it more likely to be a problem with the lightseals on the camera (an M3, which is relatively new to me also)? Is there any way, as an intelligent novice, of checking them over?

 

Any suggestions would be most gratefully received! )

 

Many thanks,

 

Robert

 

PS More photos from the M3 (not all home developed) here:

Zenfolio | Robert Hodnett | M3

[Mark Antony]

I think the answer is here:

Curiously, the very outer edges of the roll did not fix, either (where they had been in contact with the spiral)

 

My guess is uneven development, possibly agitation (insufficient) although your times seem OK. It could also be slightly mis-loaded in the spiral, possibly curved, giving less developer to certain areas of the film.

 

There is a possibility of fogging as it must be 'can't see you hand in front of your face' dark when loading film.

Does the 'fogging' occur on the outside (last few shots) or right through the roll?

[tobey bilek]

Agitation is the key. Wimpy agitation replaces the spent developer at the edges, not at the center. Result is dense edges, less dense center. Opposite in the print.

 

Kodak recommends 5 to seven inversions in 5 sec. Do not overfill so the developer has ability to move. Usually 8 oz will cover the reel. measure with water in the light.

 

Plastic tanks like Paterson need but two inversions as there is lots of spare volumn in the top.

 

Used up fix or not enough agitation in fix leaves a foggy streak down the center. You can not agitate too much in fix as the process goes to completion.

[rmhodnett]

I think the answer is here:

Curiously, the very outer edges of the roll did not fix, either (where they had been in contact with the spiral)

 

My guess is uneven development, possibly agitation (insufficient) although your times seem OK. It could also be slightly mis-loaded in the spiral, possibly curved, giving less developer to certain areas of the film.

 

There is a possibility of fogging as it must be 'can't see you hand in front of your face' dark when loading film.

Does the 'fogging' occur on the outside (last few shots) or right through the roll?

 

Hi Mark,

 

Thankyou - I suspected it might be something to do with agitation, I was *very* careful agitating this roll because the last I did went all clumpy because I went overboard on the agitation.

 

As re. fogging, it's all the way through the roll, no worse on the outside shots; though I will try and darken the room even further before I load the next roll.

 

Thanks for the reply,

 

Rob

[rmhodnett]

Hi Tobey

Agitation is the key. Wimpy agitation replaces the spent developer at the edges, not at the center. Result is dense edges, less dense center. Opposite in the print.

 

That does look like what's going on. I was quite gentle with the agitation as I was brutal last time round, and the grain went severely clumpy!

 

Kodak recommends 5 to seven inversions in 5 sec. Do not overfill so the developer has ability to move. Usually 8 oz will cover the reel. measure with water in the light.

 

Plastic tanks like Paterson need but two inversions as there is lots of spare volumn in the top.

 

Used up fix or not enough agitation in fix leaves a foggy streak down the center. You can not agitate too much in fix as the process goes to completion.

 

It's a Paterson I'm using, with the recommended volume of chemical, so I shall agitate a little more energetically next time round!

 

Thanks,

 

Rob

[Rolo]

It's definitely an agitation issue.

 

I tend to use an oversize tank filled with spare full or half spirals to ensure that the developer is completely replaced on each inversion. This is more important when you are developing several films at once. Also, pause when the tank is inverted until you hear that the fluid has stopped descending.

 

Then I compensate for this by being conservative with the number of inversions, say 3 in 10 seconds every minute.

 

Make sure that there's enough fluid in the tank and ensure that the spiral can't move up the centre tube and completely ruin the negs. However, experience has proven that this only happens when your most important negatives are in there.

 

Good luck.

 

Rolo

[stunsworth]

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My agitation was 4 inversions in 10 seconds every minute. One other trick I was told was for the last three minutes switch to agitating every 90 seconds rather than 60 to help preserve the highlights. Obviously this is assuming development times of 10 minutes or more.

 

The worst problem I had was when I switched tanks and didn't realise that the new one required more developer. That led to the under developed edges that can be seen above, though in my case it was only the top edge that was affected.

[cocker]

I think Steve's point about insufficient developer is worth checking. The Patterson recommendation for 35mm is 290 ml. I always mix 300ml. I had the effect in your film recently when I accidentally mixed 300ml for 120 film (should be 500ml). Because I was using a Pyro developer that required agitation every 15 secs the whole film did get developed but i had the pale edge that you have.

[Michael Hiles]

I have had similar problems back in ancient times, and the problem was agitation.

 

You say you rotate the tank. If you mean that you rotate the tank on its cylindrical axis, that wont work. It will produce eddys around the film edges and can sometimes produce patterns linked to the sprockets, causing a different development rate at the edges vs. the center - which is what you seem to have.

 

Agitation means picking up the vertical tank and inverting by 180 degrees so the top is now pointing down and all the developer drains to the top of the tank. Also, do not overfill the tank because the developer needs to really move, and be replaced at the surface of the film by new developer when you put the tank back down on its base. Generally, doing this twice in 5 seconds is fine. Then don't touch it until the next cycle.

 

Whether your agitation frequency is 30 or 60 seconds depends on the activity of the developer. Do what the developer manufacturer says.

 

I would say with 100% certainty that it is not fogging - there would be no pattern. And it is not the canera - light leaks can (rarely) occur but not like this. Light leaks show up in distinct patterns coming from tiny failed seals in the viewfinder or rewind lever etc. You have agitation problems.