nobbylon Posted March 6, 2008 Share #1 Posted March 6, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been experimenting painting a couple of md top plates today and have managed to get a couple of nice results however I would like to ask a question or two. Anyone who has an original black paint M3 or M4? What does the paint look like? ok i've seen them in photos but is it a matt finish like the M6 black chrome say or is it more like a recent MP's. I've managed to do a great black paint finish which basically looks identical to an M6 I have and I've nearly finished a gloss black one which does look very glossy when sat next to the MP. Jaapv, how does your Shintaro M3 compare to a new MP? Is it more matt or less? thanks in advance for any input, best j Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted March 6, 2008 Posted March 6, 2008 Hi nobbylon, Take a look here black painting. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
echorec Posted March 6, 2008 Share #2 Posted March 6, 2008 They are quite glossy. Nothing like the black chrome. I have not had an MP in my hands but I guess they are similar to the old ones. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nobbylon Posted March 7, 2008 Author Share #3 Posted March 7, 2008 Here is my first attempts. I've always fancied having a go and thought whilst I'm off with a bad back might as well try. The hardest bit is getting a smooth glossy finish as i'm sure any paint sprayers here will tell us. I think with cans you are limited somewhat to the finish possible so I'm going to get a little modellers spray gun and give that a go. The more matt finish came out great from the can though but is for me just a little too matt. It's actually near identical to black chrome finish. Paint used so far Motip satin black 16594 Motip gloss black both non acrylic and I used a sticker paint base, similar to an etch primer I suppose. Ovened at 170 deg for an hour. If any one else has any ideas post them up please Flickr: Photos from leicapainting Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
echorec Posted March 8, 2008 Share #4 Posted March 8, 2008 Looks very nice to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulL Posted March 8, 2008 Share #5 Posted March 8, 2008 Im a little unsure what type of paint you have used in your Motip aerosols. The alloy of the body should be cleaned and then an Etch primer applied as you said. Preferably I would use a 2 pack acid etch just a thin coat to give adhesion ( you end up with a pale yellow transparent coat no filling properties. The single pack etch product do not perform quite as well as the 2 pack for adheion but would provide a thicker primer base. Dont be tempted however too use these at higher film thicknesses than recommended. If you leave the etch primer for more than 5 -7 days before applying any top coat then it would need lightly abrading to ensure a key with the top coat. Preferably apply top coat as soon as the manufacturers instructions allow as even lightly abrading may show scratches through the top coat. You say you stoved at 170c with a non acrylic for an hour. If the paint in the aerosol is a stovinig alkyd type then this is excessive normaly I would expect 150 c for 20 mins. Too high a temp and or time may degrade the etch underneath and cause yellowing and ebrittlment of an alkyd. Acrylic stoving products would need slightly higher temperatures than 150c but would provide a tougher finish. Washing machines and other household appliances used to be always coated in acrylics they dont yellow and are more resistant too chemicals etc. If the product in the can was an airdry coating ( as you normaly get in aerosols), then stoving at the tiime and teperatures would definatly cause embrittlemet, yellowing and a drop in performance. Stoving polyesters or 2 pack polyurethane paints ( isocyanate cured) would be other options. The single pack stoving polyesters would cure at higher temperatures and give a tough finish non yellowing. The 2 pack polyrethanes naturally cant be put in an aerosol plus you have the hazards associated with isocyante however they would give a tough resistant finish cured at lower temp 70 -80c for 30 mins. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nobbylon Posted March 9, 2008 Author Share #6 Posted March 9, 2008 Thanks for the tips PaulL. I'm going to try and do an actual camera soon and will try an acrylic paint next time around. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulL Posted March 9, 2008 Share #7 Posted March 9, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Just remember that air dry acrylics as found in some aerosols are not stoving acrylics.. these are differant beasts, unless you stove them they will not cure at all. The airdry acrylics would not be anywhere near as robust a finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MP User Posted March 11, 2008 Share #8 Posted March 11, 2008 Once I read that the original black paint is coming from: WEILBURGER Coatings - WEILBURGER Coatings Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaapv Posted March 11, 2008 Share #9 Posted March 11, 2008 This has been discussed a few years before. Then there was a consensus that the chrome needed to be stripped off chemically in order to get a durable bond. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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