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E6 Results - home processing


andybarton

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My chemistry arrived yesterday, so I took the plunge and ran a couple of rolls of E6 through the R4/28

 

One roll of Astia, one of old Velvia 50

 

Processed in Tetenal 3 bath chemistry, according to the instructions in the Tetenal box, not the Jobo website. Added 1:30 to the initial development for Fuji (takes longer to get through to Fuji than it does to Kodak, apparently)

 

Here are some shots of the set up and, the reveal. :)

 

The films are drying now, but I will scan and post some results later.

 

The only difficult part is getting a sufficient volume of 38degC water for the washing processes - make sure you have a full tank of hot water if you want to try this yourself. ;)

 

 

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Andy,

 

Did you have to 'expose' the film halfway through or is it all chemical process?

 

I used to process my own films B&W Color and slide and do my own prints. Loved Cibachrome. That was about 20 yrs ago now :eek:

 

I want to get back into doing my own B&W, for practical reasons, but will probably carry on with Boots/Snappy Snaps for C41 and slides.

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James

 

No, it's all done chemically these days. You do need a Jobo, preferably with a lift, but once you have everything up to temperature (which takes a couple of hours), it's dead easy.

 

Here's a Velvia 50 example

 

(Only corrected for perspective in PS)

 

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Hi Andy, pleased to see that it all worked ok. That Jobo looks awfully familiar <grin>.

 

James, if you want to shoot a lot of 'real' b&w then home processing is the way to go - and it doesn't cost a lot to buy all the equipment. No need for a darkroom, a changing bag will do the jib.

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I am pleased with the results

 

Here's an Astia example - no great shakes as an image, but the rest of the film is better :)

 

I'll post some more in Landscape etc tomorrow

 

 

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Very impressive Andy! Looks professional enough to me!

 

Nice looking darkroom setup too, although I'm not familiar with the large white processing machine with the circular windowed door that's visible in a couple of those photos. ;)

 

You're a brave man.

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I have been wondering about E6 home processing. Have many years experience with b&w and am not frightened about having a go. However, I might only want to do one roll every two weeks. I understand that the chemicals have to be mixed in a batch, not bit by bit, and that their shelf life is not that long. Can anyone comment on this?

 

I realise the value of having a Jobo, but would you dare try it using ordinary tanks, kept to the right temperature in a tub of water (ie the cheap way!)

 

Thanks

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I do not think it's wise trying producing top E-6 slides with a tube of water.

The E-6 process is rather critical in temperature (37,8 +/- 0,3) and afterall no correction is possible anymore.

 

If you want to do your own color work in a tube of water you can try a C41 development which is less critical in temperature and you can correct some small adjustments later if really necessary.

 

E-6 and C41 chemicals you can use for a few weeks in the working solution.

In C41 there are still some manufacturers of small kits which you allowed to develop 6 films 135-36 or equivalent 120 roll films in that period.

The best is to develop 3x2 batches of C41 films in that way: 3:15 Min developing time on 37,8 +1 -/- 1,5 degrees C, for the Amaloco mononegacolor kit K54 suitable for 4x 6 films. So the (C41) developer is split off in 4 small bottles. Also the blix is included: 6:30 Min. on > 35 degrees C, so already more tolerance.

 

http://shop.fotohuisrovo.nl/product_info.php?cPath=31_46&products_id=166

 

Due to the fact the whole process is standard the results and handling is easy except from the handling of the right temperature. But if you have a jobo TBE-2 or an equivalent temperature regulating water bath, it's already possible to do it.

 

Concerning the price the advantages are limited due to the fact C41 (and also E-6) development is still not very expensive. However the saving in time, perfect (never scratches or damaged) negatives (especially the roll films) can be a big advantage to do it yourself.

 

best regards,

 

Robert

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...although I'm not familiar with the large white processing machine with the circular windowed door that's visible in a couple of those photos. ;)

 

Kent, that's a drum scanner, ...ehh processor :).

 

Andy, well done. I'd like to do that myself, too.

 

Cheers,

 

Andy

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I do not think it's wise trying producing top E-6 slides with a tube of water.

The E-6 process is rather critical in temperature (37,8 +/- 0,3) and afterall no correction is possible anymore.

 

The Jobo has a thermostatically controlled heater in the base that keeps the water bath, and all the chemicals, at the correct temperature. Unless you live in the tropics, I wouldn't recommend using a non-heated bath, as the chemical temperature drops very quickly when ambient is 20degC

 

The basic chemicals will last 6 months in opened bottles, and I am using the made up solution in "one shot" mode. You only need 250ml to process two films.

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The Jobo has a thermostatically controlled heater in the base that keeps the water bath, and all the chemicals, at the correct temperature.

 

And you can improve your preformance of your CPE-2 by an extra circulating (pond)-pump who gives a more equal temperature gradient inside the system.

The Jobo CPA or CPP have already such a system and are therefore even more accurate.

 

The same trick you can do in a Jobo TBE-2 and do a manual reverse development inside the water bath. This works also pretty well. The sensor (a PT-100) has enough accuracy to reach the E-6 specs.

 

best regards,

 

Robert

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Andy:

 

I used to develop all my slide film in a Jobo. I started with one like yours, then went to the bigger CPe-2 so I could make larger Ilfochromes and finally settled on a ATL-1 (computerized and automatic lift mounted to a CPE-2) and an ATL-1000.

 

If you like doing it yourself, it might be worth keeping an eye out for an ATL-1000 or ATL-1500. They are probably pretty cheap now. With either of them, all you do is load the film, fill the chemistry and the machine does the rest. When the process is done, you just do the wetting agent and hang to dry. The only difference between the ATL-1000 and ATL-1500 is the ATL-1500 allows you to make your own programs, rather than run preset programs. The built in programs in both machines included E6, E6 3bath, C41, B&W film, and colour and B&W print processing.

 

With the ATL machines you need a tempered water supply for the wash cycles.

 

Robert

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