M Lenses on SL-3S vs SL-2S camera questions

[miatadan]

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I wondering if it is worthwhile to upgrade my SL-2S to the newer SL-3S if I am using M lenses ( Leica models with coding ) instead of L lenses in general?

Last year purchased the Leica SL-2S bundle which had the adapter for m lenses, 50mm lens  and extra battery. Also liked the smaller M lenses.

Secondary question, may sound stupid but can I do zone focusing of M lenses on my SL2-S which would eliminate auto focus issues. Have not purchased my first M lens yet but looking at the 28mm Elmarit f/2.8mm ASPH 11677. If not using zone focus what is best method for manual focus on my SL-2S. Could practice with my 50mm I have now by switching to auto focus off before I have some M lenses.

Dan

 

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[Dazzajl]

Yes you can zone focus and the SL cameras are lovely to use with manual focus lenses. 
 

There is little more to it than twist the thing till the image looks its sharpest. I have my SL 601 set to punch in and magnify the viewfinder with a push on the joystick. Works brilliantly for me, a combo I really enjoy using. 

Edited Wednesday at 06:20 PM by Dazzajl

[jaapv]

19 minutes ago, miatadan said:

I wondering if it is worthwhile to upgrade my SL-2S to the newer SL-3S if I am using M lenses ( Leica models with coding ) instead of L lenses in general?

Last year purchased the Leica SL-2S bundle which had the adapter for m lenses, 50mm lens  and extra battery. Also liked the smaller M lenses.

Secondary question, may sound stupid but can I do zone focusing of M lenses on my SL2-S which would eliminate auto focus issues. Have not purchased my first M lens yet but looking at the 28mm Elmarit f/2.8mm ASPH 11677. If not using zone focus what is best method for manual focus on my SL-2S. Could practice with my 50mm I have now by switching to auto focus off before I have some M lenses.

Dan

 

But consider: Zone focusing is not focusing, but determining the acceptable zone of unsharpness. I call it Zone Misfocusing. 

The best method for focusing a manual lens is to look through the EVF and put the sharpness where you want it. For more precision use magnification. I have set it on the Fn push on the thumbwheel (SL2S) which allows me to adjust the magnification in the same push.  Focus peaking is less precise (even less so than eyeballing it!) unless you use it in combination with magnification. 

There is no difference between an SL2S and an SL3S in this respect. 

[miatadan]

1 minute ago, jaapv said:

But consider: Zone focusing is not focusing, but determining the acceptable zone of unsharpness. I call it Zone Misfocusing. 

The best method for focusing a manual lens is to look through the EVF and put the sharpness where you want it. For more precision use magnification. I have set it on the Fn push on the thumbwheel which allows me to adjust the magnification in the same push.  Focus peaking is less precise (even less so than eyeballing it!) unless you use it in combination with magnification. 

There is no difference between an SL2S and an SL3S in this respect. 

I seen focus peaking mentioned before but how do I add magnification?

[jaapv]

It is an item to set in the menu. Most people use a joystick push. The thumbwheel controls the amount. 

[miatadan]

Thanks jaapv,  btw I appreciate your reviews posted on your site. 

Also starting to think, not enough difference to trade in my SL-2S for the newer SL3-S .

[miatadan]

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Magnification working, but no matter what I try. seems no focus peaking at all. This is with 50mm SL summicron lense

Actually found the problem, had to turn off extended live view.

Edited Wednesday at 08:19 PM by miatadan

[Photoworks]

Here are 2 considerations to keep in mind

1. The adapter from Leica does not stop at infinity, but it goes past it; that means all the meter indications are just a little off.

2. To do critical focus with M lenses, it is best to focus wide open after that close to the desired F-stop, and take the photo.
When you are at f8 it looks in focus, but when you review the photo, it is just a bit off. This same issue has come up on the M EV1
Opening, focusing, closing, and shooting can be affected by other challenges, if you set ISO, TIME, manually, you most likely will not be looking at a correct exposure, making focusing a challenge.

That said, I often shoot wide open, with lenses like the Noctilux, it works so good that I don't need to zoom in or activate focus peaking.

[Stuart Richardson]

22 hours ago, miatadan said:

I wondering if it is worthwhile to upgrade my SL-2S to the newer SL-3S if I am using M lenses ( Leica models with coding ) instead of L lenses in general?

Last year purchased the Leica SL-2S bundle which had the adapter for m lenses, 50mm lens  and extra battery. Also liked the smaller M lenses.

Secondary question, may sound stupid but can I do zone focusing of M lenses on my SL2-S which would eliminate auto focus issues. Have not purchased my first M lens yet but looking at the 28mm Elmarit f/2.8mm ASPH 11677. If not using zone focus what is best method for manual focus on my SL-2S. Could practice with my 50mm I have now by switching to auto focus off before I have some M lenses.

Dan

 

What do you expect to gain? The sensors and performance are very similar. The differences are mainly in price and interface. You get a tilting screen and smaller body, but lose the binary power switch and the feel of the SL2 generation. It probably makes sense to try it with an M lens before getting rid of it. Many users did not feel compelled to upgrade, especially if they are mostly doing manual focus and sticking with an S model. The headline changes from the SL2 to SL3 were going from 47 to 60mp with lower noise, adding the tilting screen and smaller body and adding phase detect AF. Only the middle one is relevant for you, it seems.