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I'd like some advice from M10 users whether it still makes sense to buy an M10. I am talking about the 24MP version, not M10-P or -R or Monochrom as they are still very expensive. I never had a rangefinder camera besides my Hanimex Compact R when I was young. 

I own a Q3 and D-Lux 8 but I am fascinated by the idea of the "Messucher". The M11 would by my first choice but that would break the bank. 

My questions are:

  1. Is is still a camera that makes sense? Interested in pros and cons.
  2. Does it allow geo-tagging with the Fotos App (could not find a final confirmation online)?
  3. Can I use the Fotos app for composition, e.g. live view on the phone like my Q3 or DL8?
  4. Is there anything why you would not buy it today? 
  5. Are RAW files DNG format?
  6. Does it add lens information, f-stop and shutter speed to EXIF? (I understood f-stop is a guess only as the lens cannot communicate with the camera besides the 6 bit lens type)
  7. Is there anything else I should consider?

As I have no "M" equipment: what 35mm or 24mm lenses would you recommend that don't break the bank either?

Thank you!

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As this question keeps coming up, both here and on Youtube, my number one reply is - how do you feel about 1) manual focus and 2) manual focus with a rangefinder?

I mean those are they key aspects of an M camera.

I recently bought an M10 and I really like it. If I had had the budget I might have gone for the M10-R, just to get the extra megapixels. But the images out of the M10 are lovely and the camera itself is a perfect combination of modern digital, with classic Leica simplicity.

I use it with the Fotos App. I personally don't use live view or Fotos to compose, because it's a rangefinder and that's why I bought it.

I have M lenses that I bought in the 90's. A lot of the Voigtlander lenses are good, and some Zeiss.

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Posted (edited)

The M10 is a fantastic camera, and likely to be revered as perfect balance of features for a digital M IMHO. The quality of the 24mp is fine for printing up to A2 and possibly larger. Buy a couple of spare batteries and number them so you can rotate in order.

To answer a couple of questions, all digital Leica's use DNG format, and EXIF will include lens details for 6-bit coded lenses or manually entered IF in cameras listing of lenses, and the f number will be a guess which is not totally accurate.  You will need the Visoflex for some electronic compatibility.You need to research this carefully if it is important to you.

Edited by pedaes
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In addition to what's already been said (Rangefinder, manual focus), if the M11 breaks the bank, how do you feel about the lens prices? Two lenses can easily cost you what a M11 does.  The alternative is adapted lenses which defeats the whole reason to shoot Leica. If you want more Leica and save the bank account/marriage, maybe think about the CL and a couple of Leica L lenses.  It's a great camera with (to me) the only negative/down side is that Leica didn't see fit to do a v2 and give it an upgrade. 

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Interesting questions, here is my opinion.

The M10 is the previous generation, but still supremely capable. I’d go so far as to say perhaps even the best of the M digital series.
I would advise a M10R with its extra resolution and refinements over a M10 if budget allows, it is perfection.

I don’t use geo tagging, but I believe the Visoflex 020 needs to be fitted and the camera connected to a WiFi network for that function. Perhaps others can clarify.

I use M10 & M10R along side M11M, I have no desire or feel any need to upgrade, I prefer the M10R in my hand, but shoot seamlessly between them all.

Raw = DNG

Lens information is added automatically if 6Bit coded, otherwise Leica lenses can be manually chosen from a list. Aperture is always a guess.

The M10 series Achilles heal is it’s battery life, 2 batteries for the day is ample in my case.

 

For 24mm, the Elmarit ASPH can be found at reasonable money and is a stellar preforming lens, though 6Bit versions cost a little more.
For 35mm, the Summicron is popular in its many versions, but as a key focal length the Summilux again many versions, adds so much more in the way it paints light. Summilux FLE v1 would be my pick, even as a first lens until funds replenish.

It is easy to spend someone else’s money, but don’t forget the multitude of 3rd party lenses, which I know nothing about.

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Most of your questions have been answered above. I agree, the M10 is IMO the perfect digital M, striking the perfect balance between form, function (simplified buttons & menu), combined with superb colour rendering & IQ.  I've never felt the need to "upgrade" from the M10.

It's the camera I use when I want to slow things down a little & pack the SL2-S & SL3 away for a week or 2. You wont go wrong.

 

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First of all, thank you for your answers. This is very encouraging.

vor 2 Stunden schrieb Chris W:

As this question keeps coming up, both here and on Youtube, my number one reply is - how do you feel about 1) manual focus and 2) manual focus with a rangefinder?

Although my Q3 does a superb job to support my street photography, I want to go to a different level of photography. Learn something new in this case means: go back to traditional photography that the masters did: Henri Cartier-Bresson and many others. Not that I compare my photography with theses true masters. By no means. But get a flavor of that. Master the camera. As I am not sure if that approach will work I don't want to break the bank. And I am aware that I need one or two lenses as well. Thank you for your recommendations. Any lens should have the 6 bit encoding. 

Now I need to make a list. I am still looking into the M10 monochrom as I mainly do b&w. But this is roughly 40% to 50% more expensive than the preowned M10 and almost as expensive as a preowned M11 (interestingly enough). However I may just go for the M10 and enjoy it.

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59 minutes ago, Alexander108 said:

I am still looking into the M10 monochrom as I mainly do b&w.

The M10 Monochrome has many of the refinements found in the M10R. That’s a serious jump into rangefinders along with being locked into Monochrome. 
Great choice, you’ll never have a need to upgrade. Monochrome M’s are very special way to shoot, colour filters, high & low contrast lenses, coupled with extreme file elasticity in post processing and practically no noise. 
Wish you well in your decision.

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vor 1 Stunde schrieb Chris W:

None of my lenses are 6bit coded. It adds convenience, but isn't a deal breaker IMO. I have a cheap Voigtlander 40mm f2.8 that is very good, also the APO Voiigtlander lenses are highly regarded. 

Can you / do you select the lenses in the camera menu? Being a nerd, I always like to know which lenses were used.

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Posted (edited)
59 minutes ago, Alexander108 said:

Can you / do you select the lenses in the camera menu? Being a nerd, I always like to know which lenses were used.

You can select lenses that are listed, which are only Leica lenses and not the whole catalogue, but will likely include any 'usual' lens.. You can six bit code a non-Leica lens to a Leica proxy, or select that proxy from the list in the camera fw and this will appear in exif. As an example, I have in the past used one of the 50mm Summicrons for a Zeiss 50mm Planar (which is an absolutely stellar lens and great vfm if you don't mind its slightly higher contrast than Summicron).

Remember the six bit code does trigger some in camera lens corrections designed for that specific lens, but these are absolutely minimal for 50mm and longer focal lengths.

Edited by pedaes
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vor einer Stunde schrieb Alexander108:

Being a nerd, I always like to know which lenses were used

I coded my Voigtländer lenses to corresponding Leica lenses and then use exiftool to replace the field contents with the respective real names. That does not take much time and can be fully automated (unless you have a Leica lens that uses the same code as recommended for the Voigtländer lens). Within Lightroom, you then see the correct lens names popping up and you can use the lens profile corrections available for many Voigtländer lens combinations.

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22 hours ago, Alexander108 said:

Can you / do you select the lenses in the camera menu? 

Yes. I tend to shoot with one lens at a time and there is an easy to access list of lenses that you can look through and select the one you are using.

If it's a 3rd party lens then I just choose the Leica version that is the closest match.

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On 8/10/2025 at 1:46 PM, Alexander108 said:

First of all, thank you for your answers. This is very encouraging.

Although my Q3 does a superb job to support my street photography, I want to go to a different level of photography. Learn something new in this case means: go back to traditional photography that the masters did: Henri Cartier-Bresson and many others. Not that I compare my photography with theses true masters. By no means. But get a flavor of that. Master the camera. As I am not sure if that approach will work I don't want to break the bank. And I am aware that I need one or two lenses as well. Thank you for your recommendations. Any lens should have the 6 bit encoding. 

Now I need to make a list. I am still looking into the M10 monochrom as I mainly do b&w. But this is roughly 40% to 50% more expensive than the preowned M10 and almost as expensive as a preowned M11 (interestingly enough). However I may just go for the M10 and enjoy it.

I would get the M10 and splurge on a great lens.  The color data will give you more options for editing B&W , which you should do anyway because you are working with Raws.  You can always resell the used M10 for about the same price you paid for it and get a M10m or M11 when you are certain you want one.

 

Shot on an M10:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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I bought the M10 a couple of years ago, and it was already some years old back then. 

Cons

  • The biggest downside to Leica - and maybe some other rangefinders - is that if you are using glasses, the focal-lengths 28mm and 35mm is more difficult to frame accurately, when using the rangefinder. 
  • I personally don't miss having more megapixels. Of course, sometimes more pixels would enable more "aggressive" or creative cropping. If you want photograph architecture with a wide-angle lens, those extra pixels would come in handy when you correct all the angles in the photo.
  • I maybe mis the horizon-gauge on the M10 - but if it's not visible in the viewfinder on the M11, then maybe not so much.
  • The M10 in brass is heavy.
  • ....you'll be spending a lot of money on lenses. At first you buy the wrong ones, and will end up buy those that you dreamt of at the beginning....
  • Compared to the Q3 there is not a lot of weather-sealing. 

Pros

  • I think the M10 is good value, but it seems the price has gone up a bit in the used market. But I don't think a used M10 will loose that much value in the next 10 years.
  • I personally think the M10 looks better from the rear. The three button's looks somewhat detached on the M11. (But the M11D has a better look than the M10D (that weird "film rewind-lever..." ))
  • I dig the bottom-cover on the M10. 
  • The M10 in brass is heavy. 
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On 8/11/2025 at 8:46 AM, Alexander108 said:

First of all, thank you for your answers. This is very encouraging.

Although my Q3 does a superb job to support my street photography, I want to go to a different level of photography. Learn something new in this case means: go back to traditional photography that the masters did: Henri Cartier-Bresson and many others. Not that I compare my photography with theses true masters. By no means. But get a flavor of that. Master the camera. As I am not sure if that approach will work I don't want to break the bank. And I am aware that I need one or two lenses as well. Thank you for your recommendations. Any lens should have the 6 bit encoding. 

Now I need to make a list. I am still looking into the M10 monochrom as I mainly do b&w. But this is roughly 40% to 50% more expensive than the preowned M10 and almost as expensive as a preowned M11 (interestingly enough). However I may just go for the M10 and enjoy it.

Go for the M10-M while you can get one.  You won't regret it, and you will keep it forever.  In my opinion, the M10 series of cameras are "peak M".

Fotos can be a bit of a mission, but with patience it works well for remote triggering and (I think) for geotagging.  Certainly, geotagging works well with the Visoflex (the ugly round one, not the new one released with the M11 - there is no advantage using that with an M10).  I use Fotos quite a bit for remote control with my M10-D.

I suggest you get just one good lens, til you're comfortable with the rangefinder system (it isn't hard, but takes getting used to).  The best advice I have received is to get out and use the camera with your one lens a lot so you get comfortable with it.

If you have just one lens, and it is uncoded, the first time you use it, if you select the lens from the menu, then the camera will remember it for future use.  If you subsequently add a coded lens, then subsequently use the uncoded lens, the camera will still remember the uncoded lens, but only if you have just one (it remembers the last uncoded lens used).  Coding doesn't do much more than record the lens used in the EXIF data.

As for lenses, for your first, have a look at what you use the most.  Your Q3 has a 28mm lens (uncropped), so a 50mm lens could be a good choice.  In my view, 50mm is a sweet-spot for the M system.  The Summilux-M ASPH (the first version) can be had for around USD 2,000-3,000 and the Summicron-M (11819 - not the latest re-release version) for about half that.  Both much loved lenses.  There are threads on both lenses, and also in the photo part of the forum.

Good luck!

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vor 9 Stunden schrieb IkarusJohn:

Fotos can be a bit of a mission, but with patience it works well for remote triggering and (I think) for geotagging.  Certainly, geotagging works well with the Visoflex (the ugly round one, not the new one released with the M11 - there is no advantage using that with an M10).  I use Fotos quite a bit for remote control with my M10-D.

 

I just shot an M10-M on ebay. OMG! Now I need a lens.

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54 minutes ago, Alexander108 said:

I just shot an M10-M on ebay. OMG! Now I need a lens.

Excellent!

As I commented above, get one good lens to start with, preferably a Leica (in my view).

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Posted (edited)

I use mostly Summicron 35mm v2 on M10M, full metal, small and light (which is for me important) . Optical quality is good.

The first lens is however usually the begin of nice and sometimes expensive trip. Enjoy your MONOCHROM and try yellow, orange and red filters. They have more impact on your pictures than the optical quality of the lens. 

Edited by Essummi
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I found this offer here. This seems to be a rather old lens. Any thoughts on the Leica Summicron 35mm f/2 (Type III)?

Or should I invest the almost double amount of money for a Leica SUMMICRON-M 35mm F2 ASPH?

Thank you for your thoughts on that. It seems to be rather difficult for a newbie to identify the right lens. I assume that I can sell the lens if it does not suit me. Also note that this is for the M10-M. I want to get started and understand the M system. I will buy more lenses later on for sure.

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