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Am 28.7.2025 um 10:07 schrieb jacopastorius:

So what's the point of using the exposure compensation? it is the same of going one stop up or down changing the speed

I sometimes deliberately use exposure compensation to achieve a certain look by underexposing or overexposing to a certain degree, depending on the situation. It's similar to push processing in analog photography, where I would, for example, set the ISO dial to 800 for an ISO 400 film.

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The simple answer is that exposure compensation changes the metering settings in the camera.  It doesn’t really do anything else.

So, if you’re in fully manual mode, and you set EV to -2/3 then the little arrows in the bottom of the viewfinder will be telling you it’s a perfect exposure, when it is in fact slightly under-exposed.  It does the same thing in Aperture priority and it has the same effect if you use Auto ISO - the camera’s meter is telling you to under-expose.

Contrary to Jaap’s advice, I permanently set my EV to -2/3 knowing that the meter is under-exposing.  It isn’t wrong, a mistake or a silly thing to do as I know the camera’s meter is giving an under-exposed reading and shoot accordingly.  I don’t adjust it from shot to shot, nor do I need to.  You can achieve exactly the same effect in manual by just under-exposing using either aperture or shutter settings.  The EV just changes the starting point on the camera’s meter.  Does this affect dynamic range?  To a point, if you accept that the meter’s reading is always right.  I don’t.

As to the Auto settings, I tend not to use them unless I’m in a hurry.  The combination of Aperture priority and Auto-ISO is something I never contemplate as the camera seems to make odd decisions and combinations which I can’t control.  The only exception is with my Monochrom, which I leave in Auto-ISO as I don’t care what that does.  I don’t use Aperture priority with that camera.  I control aperture and shutter speed manually and forget about ISO.

So, in your example, with EV set, and in Auto-ISO and Aperture priority, if you move the camera to a brighter or darker setting, the meter will tell the camera to adjust either aperture or ISO (heaven knows in which priority) to maintain the metered reading with your EV adjustment.  In short, EV works whatever mode you’re shooting in.

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On 7/28/2025 at 10:51 AM, jaapv said:

Some users set EV compensation to a permanent minus value from fear of blown highlights which is a mistake as well.

This is funny. It is not a mistake if you know how a meter works. There is no mistake in photography if you understand how you manipulate the tools to your own ends. 
 

To OP question, just an example - a snowy scene or a bright beach are two common scenarios where a meter will underexpose a scene - rendering the snow or beach as a middle grey. In such circumstances dialing an exposure compensation of + 1 or +2/3 would be suitable.

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It is a mistake as you set an invariable to compensate for a worst case in a dynamic situation. If you know how a meter works you know that each light setting is different. Restricting DR for all situations by setting a permanent-EV value is indeed a mistake. Strangely enough you end your post describing the correct procedure. 
 

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22 minutes ago, jaapv said:

It is a mistake as you set an invariable to compensate for a worst case in a dynamic situation. If you know how a meter works you know that each light setting is different. Restricting DR for all situations by setting a permanent-EV value is indeed a mistake. Strangely enough you end your post describing the correct procedure. 
 

An invariable?   Only if you assume that your meter is always right.  An accurate reflective EV reading of a scene (for a chosen ISO) will give a neutral grey average.  That’s about it.

There are no “mistakes” (or absolutes) in photography, unless what you capture is not what you intended …

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23 minutes ago, IkarusJohn said:

Only if you assume that your meter is always right.

Which is exactly what you do if you set EV comp to -⅔ for instance "to prevent blown-out highlights" and keep it there.  

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8 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Which is exactly what you do if you set EV comp to -⅔ for instance "to prevent blown-out highlights" and keep it there.  

Which is not a bad idea if a neutral grey reading results in blown highlights which cannot be recovered, whereas there is more latitude in shadows with a digital sensor.  Of course, a lot depends on what you’ve done with ISO - if you accept that ISO is invariant (always under exposing), then it doesn’t really matter so much does it?

In all photography, I tend to avoid absolutes, but getting the “best” image in camera is what I aim to do, using all the tools available.  I don’t really intend to get into a discussion about what “best” means, or to tell others that what they do is a “mistake”.

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12 minutes ago, jaapv said:

Why should one go for a neutral grey reading? I did not introduce that one into the discussion...

One shouldn’t (see @pgh’s comment above), but it’s what meters are trying to achieve, unless you use a spotmeter and apply the zone system. 

I think we can agree that every exposure should be considered separately, in the context of what the meter is telling you (it’s trying to achieve neutral grey).  Where you start from is entirely up to the photographer, provided they know what they’re doing.  Most meters don’t …

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, jaapv said:

It is a mistake as you set an invariable to compensate for a worst case in a dynamic situation. If you know how a meter works you know that each light setting is different. Restricting DR for all situations by setting a permanent-EV value is indeed a mistake. Strangely enough you end your post describing the correct procedure. 
 

There are “Jaap’s rules for correct photography” - I see you think they are universal (thankfully they are not) and then there are what other people do in their own free way of working.

I’ll judge the results, the process is personal. 

Edited by pgh
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1 hour ago, jaapv said:

Which is exactly the point I was as trying to make…

And yet, instead you said it is a mistake to set EV at -2/3.  It rather sits right along side ISO isn’t an exposure variable as a Jaap rule.

The reality is whether we use an external meter or the one in camera, we set ISO and exposure compensation to get an EV reading (nicely coupled on the old Hasselblad V lenses).  The question should always then be, a reading of what?  If you understand your camera settings, how the meter works and what you want to capture, then there are no absolutes. 

The reality is also that the capture medium is an important consideration. Are you going to be able to recover highlights or shadows?  On my digital M cameras (both reading off the shutter), I always have the exposure compensation set to -2/3 and I then adjust the aperture or shutter in manual for the image.  It is intentional.  It isn’t a mistake.

Good we’ve cleared that up.

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