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My M11 Monochrom and Contax/Zeiss 100mm Makro with extension tube & Adapter would be my setup.  The lens is a 2:1 macro lens so I’ll probably be using it for 645 and 6x7.  Currently using an A7CR with the newer Tamron 90mm f/2.0 Macro.

Anyone try a Leica Monochrom to digitize B&W negatives

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While being limited to only copying B&W it would be a perfect way to scan negatives. You don't need to make it complicated, a macro true lens or enlarger lens is essential, bit with adapters there are many suitable lenses available. So get an adapter from M to Sony mount, you need a copy stand and a light pad, and some software to convert a negative image into positive, but this isn't difficult.

Edited by 250swb
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Yes, a while ago. I do not think there was a huge difference results wise between the M10M and a Nikon D850. Both cameras were used on the same copy set up. I'll have to check the files to make sure.

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5 hours ago, BWColor said:

My M11 Monochrom and Contax/Zeiss 100mm Makro with extension tube & Adapter would be my setup.  The lens is a 2:1 macro lens so I’ll probably be using it for 645 and 6x7.  Currently using an A7CR with the newer Tamron 90mm f/2.0 Macro.

Anyone try a Leica Monochrom to digitize B&W negatives

A few years ago the fine-art photographer Richard Spencer offered high-quality scanning and printing through Leica Store Miami.   When my scans came back, they had been made with a Monochrom.  

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Now that I’m convinced that this is a great idea, I can’t find any of the adapters or extension tubes that are necessary to make it work with my Contax/Zeiss, or Tamron macro lenses.

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OK..  Issue resolved.  I found a Novaflex Contax to Leica M adapter.  It was pretty pricey, but all my Novaflex products have been expensive, but of good quality.  I found extension tubes of unknown brand on KEH, so at least I have the ability to try my M11 Monochrom to copy B&W film.

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  • 1 month later...

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This is my setup. The stand is from Negativ Supply. I'm using a Zeiss Planar 2/50 with two 10mm extension rings from K&F Concept. I'm pleased with the result. 

 

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Result of above: Rolleiflex 3.5f on Kentmere PAN 400, n-1 in Rodinal 1:50

 

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Although I don't own a monochrome camera, I've had good results from B&W negatives using a light panel, a BEOON copying stand, and an M9-P fitted with a pre-war 5cm f/3.5 Elmar. I wrote this up for the Volume 54 issue 4 of 'Viewfinder'.

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2 hours ago, BWColor said:

Your setup looks good.  Is there a downside to using electronic shutter for copy work?

The M10M has a mechanical shutter.

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3 hours ago, BWColor said:

Your setup looks good.  Is there a downside to using electronic shutter for copy work?

There is an upside to using an electronic shutter, no vibration.

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10 hours ago, roydonian said:

Although I don't own a monochrome camera, I've had good results from B&W negatives using a light panel, a BEOON copying stand, and an M9-P fitted with a pre-war 5cm f/3.5 Elmar. I wrote this up for the Volume 54 issue 4 of 'Viewfinder'.

Unfortunately, I don't have that issue of the magazine.

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To summarise the published article:

Tests of all my 50mm/5cm lenses when mounted on the BEOON copying stand identified the f/3.5 Elmar stopped down to f/12.5 as the best-performing lens for this task.

Importing the images of B&W negatives into Photoshop via Adobe Camera Raw, inverting them by using 'Select Image => Adjustments => Invert', then using 'Image => Mode => Greyscale' followed by 'Select Image => Auto Contrast' produced satisfactory results.

I have made relatively few images with colour-negative film, but have tried my hand at converting these. Camera Raw offers 'Auto' and 'As shot' options for white balance, so when using it to import images of colour negatives, I use its 'Auto' setting, then select the 'Open image' button to transfer the rebalanced image to Photoshop.

'Select Image => Adjustments => Invert' in Photoshop will convert the image to a positive, but this is likely to be of low contrast and limited colour saturation. The simplest method of creating a balanced full-colour image is to use 'Select Image => Auto Color'. If the result is not satisfactory, 'Edit => Undo' can used to cancel the operation, followed by 'Select Image => Auto Tone'.

If neither of these automated processes gives a good result, the final option is to revert to the inverted image, then select Photoshop's 'Images => Adjustments => Levels', and adjust the white and black points for the red, blue, and green channels in turn.

 

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