Underperfoming TTL flashes

[Leicaboy Norway]

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Hey guys

 

So this isn't super scientific

But when I've used Canon, Pentax, Fuji with Godox flashes, either V1 or TT350, I've got great results on TTL.

Superb lighting, nice color temp out of the box, etc. 

When I first got my Leica Q I got the SF 40 TTL flash from Leica. It overexposed, underexposed and sometimes hit the right amount. But more often not.

I sold my SF 40.

Now that I have a M240, SL2 and Q I got a SF 58 TTL flash again. I even updated it to be compatible with SL2.

But even now, I'm not getting good enough results from an hot shoe flash at ttl. I usually use the flash for bouncing the light of the celing or walls and it's just so simple with godox flash and those other  camera brands, whereas with Leica it's very hit and miss.

Anyone else experienced the same?

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[spydrxx]

I always hated ttl, to me it just introduced another factor. Much prefer a flash which reads directly from the light reflected directly off the subject, like the ones pre-ttl. I use an old Metz hammerhead and never have a problem with bounce or direct shooting. True-it is bigger and heavier and more unwieldy than a hot shoe one, but I get consistently reliable results. To each his own.

[Leicaboy Norway]

2 minutes ago, spydrxx said:

I always hated ttl, to me it just introduced another factor. Much prefer a flash which reads directly from the light reflected directly off the subject, like the ones pre-ttl. I use an old Metz hammerhead and never have a problem with bounce or direct shooting. True-it is bigger and heavier and more unwieldy than a hot shoe one, but I get consistently reliable results. To each his own.

How does that work? I'm in situations where I can't ask strangers to stand still while I manually adjust the light 

[spydrxx]

Just now, Leicaboy Norway said:

How does that work? I'm in situations where I can't ask strangers to stand still while I manually adjust the light 

The flash body itself has a sensor (or you can go fully manual). You predetermine your desired shooting aperture based on a large range from  the minimum  to the maximum distance to your intended subject and set it on the flash body and the sensor adjusts the intensity or duration of the flash reflected from the subject located within that range. It is almost idiot proof for direct flash, but may require a little mental calculation with bounce flash. This is true for both the hammerhead and a much smaller shoe mounted flash of similar timeframe.

[Jonathan Levin]

I agree with spydrxx. Years ago I used and loved my old Vivitar Thyristor xxx because you set and f/stop on flash to match camera. For me shutter speed was always 1/4-1/30 (for effect desired). The light output was determined by the flash at that point. I have never had or wanted to use ttl. I also miss my Sunpac 611 with the sensor on my M’s. Great for handheld flash stuff.

[FMB]

I ask myself, which options are  people selecting for exposure metering in TTL mode? No matter the answer?

Francisco.

[Leicaboy Norway]

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Asking yourself or asking us?

I'm not sure I understand your post.

 

Are you asking if I'm using spot metering or any other sort of metering while I'm shooting with a hotshoe TTL flash?

[Pelu2010]

17 hours ago, Leicaboy Norway said:

How does that work? I'm in situations where I can't ask strangers to stand still while I manually adjust the light 

I usually test the flash >  camera settings in the surroundings. And most of the time this does not change that much. 
and I try to set the flash less than the camera would suggest. I use it only as fill in. This way I hardly overexpose. 
I first set the camera exposure and set it to the low end. The. I add the flash from smallest value. Until I am happy. And then I shoot. And if there a people around me I just love with some shoots that aren’t perfect until I get the values right 

[FMB]

 

My question is only and exclusive asked to remember everybody that, before consider guilty  of our problem,  a flash or  a mode of use it, make a check list of the procedure and the settings of our camera, lens  and flash,  as pilots do. Nowadays we have so many hidden factors, on and off, in the inner of the tools we are using that is easy forget one and fail. Myself the first.             Saludos,

Francisco. 

Sorry.  I don't know which is the problem with size of my text.

[Leicaboy Norway]

Are you using Google translate?Anyway!

If you're asking if I've done something with the settings that might affect the function of the flash, hmm, maybe, I don't think so. But definetely not impossible!

 

I usually switch between the metering modes and WB, but I've tried several times and don't think there's anything wrong with the settings, but it's actually not a bad advice to check this out more! Thank you! Gracias amigo!

[FMB]

For instance, are you using Auto ISO,  meanwhile you shoot with your TTL flash? Is there a correct communication between your camera and the flash, Iso, f number, angle of the lens/zoom and so and  so? Are you over-rating the power of your flash, too much or too short distance to the object?. Did you forget some previous EV compensation, in your flash or  your camera?

I accept  that my examples are an offence to your  photo knowledge, but nobody is free  to fall in those sins.

Good bye guys,

Francisco.

[FlashGordonPhotography]

I no longer have a SF58 so this is a *try it* idea.

The SF 58 has an *auto* mode. Leica’s auto mode is a bit different in that the camera and flash still talk but the light meter is switched from the sensor to the one in the flash. Other things like aperture changes on camera are still sent to the flash automatically.

If this still works on the SL2, use it. I found it vastly more reliable for exposures, especially anything bounced.

Also manual ISO.

I never found the SF40 to have enough power for bounce flash.

Gordon

[tpf1952]

Gordon,

If you had good experiences with the SF-58, why did you part with it? And would you consider getting another one? 
 

I have an SF-40 that I use with an M-10 and and SL2s.  I use the flash when covering interior events and use it only in manual mode. TTL is simply too unreliable. 
 

Curious to know if the SF58, mounted on the SL2s, is more consistent in an auto mode. 
 

Tom

[Photoworks]

There should be a little discussion about the Guide Number power, distance, and bounce calculation. just a little bit of math.

the SF-60 has a GN60.

GN60 is = to ISO 100, F8 at a 5.5-meter distance.  Full power and direct. 

If you are bouncing or using filter and diffusion this goes down quickly and you have to consider 3 stop light loss from the direct exposure.

The SF-40 is only good in direct flash most of the time.

 

PS. Leica SF 58 and SF 60 exposure compensation in the camera is not transmitted. You would have to set compensation on the flash.

Some flashes don't wake up from sleep on the SL camera, only SF 40 and SF-60 claim to be supported in the SL3. 

Many cameras have flash set to fill. it is just a gentle flash exposure in the overall image. If you want the Flash look you probably should set your room exposure in M and add 1 stop flash compensation.

[Jonathan Levin]

2 hours ago, Photoworks said:

Some flashes don't wake up from sleep on the SL camera

This was the case when using my Nikon SB700. Had to manually engage but lost more than a few shots on Halloween. I think you can disable stand by, but I probably won’t be keeping unit.

[FMB]

I think the higher GN  of  the SF 60 only is achieved when de zoom position of the flash is set at 200 mm. This is a  condition, (higher extension of the flash-zoom), that most of the modern flashes forget to mention when speak of the maximum power of them.

Francisco.