costa43 Posted June 28, 2024 Share #1 Posted June 28, 2024 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi all, I'm finalising my film workflow and have decided to go down the route of home scanning with the valoi 35 and my sl2s. I've also just ordered the 70mm Sigma macro. My question is to those with first hand experience of this product. Are any of the additions that you can buy along with the valoi worth it? I'll be scanning around 3 rolls of 35mm a week so light work in the grand scheme of things. Thanks! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 28, 2024 Posted June 28, 2024 Hi costa43, Take a look here Valoi Easy35. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Bohns Posted June 28, 2024 Share #2 Posted June 28, 2024 (edited) Hello @costa43. I bought a Valoi Easy35 and made scanning trials with 35 mm and APS films. It is treamendously more ergonomic, easier (hence the name, I guess) and faster than the flatbed scanner and the copy stand I used to work with. I bought as well the Easy35 Duster, which is good and usefull (as I am concerned) with 35 mm negs, but not « easy » with APS negs. Indeed, this the better solution I found to scan properly the APS rolls I made at the end of the 90’s while I walk-travelled in South-America (from Chile/Argentina up to Peru), North-Africa (Atlas down to Mauritania) and Northern Alps (from Chamonix to Austria through Switzerland). Not a lot of rolls (less than 80) but I was desperated not being able to digitalize them properly (even with the copy stand, it was very difficult to keep them flat if « machining » a kind of frame at the right format, and passing through a 35 mm frame was not very practical). Consequently, I bought the APS frame for it and am VERY happy (even if I will use it mainly for 35 mm negs scanning). This is a very good system IMHO. The only question I have is whether the light or the battery will remain changeable with time. That is why I do not sell my copy-stand. Regards, Stef. Edited June 28, 2024 by Bohns Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohns Posted June 28, 2024 Share #3 Posted June 28, 2024 (edited) 3 hours ago, costa43 said: home scanning with the valoi 35 and my sl2s. I've also just ordered the 70mm Sigma macro. This is very close to my own set-up : SL2 + 70 mm Sigma macro 😉 I also tried successfully M11 + Macro-Elmarit-R 60 with macro-adapter for 1:1. The tilting EVF2 is clearly usefull when screen cannot be tilted. I invert in Lightroom with Negative Lab Pro ; I upgraded recently to v3 which is really a major update of this software. Regards, Stef. Edited June 28, 2024 by Bohns Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted June 28, 2024 Author Share #4 Posted June 28, 2024 (edited) Thanks @Bohns that is reassuring and helpful. On a slightly separate note. How are you finding the colours with Negative Lab Pro? I ask as my local lab are adamant that you cannot get the true intended colour of the film with a macro and camera setup. I'm currently trying to decide on how to invert the negatives and Negative Lab Pro is a consideration for me too. Edited June 28, 2024 by costa43 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohns Posted June 28, 2024 Share #5 Posted June 28, 2024 (edited) 1 hour ago, costa43 said: Thanks @Bohns that is reassuring and helpful. On a slightly separate note. How are you finding the colours with Negative Lab Pro? I ask as my local lab are adamant that you cannot get the true intended colour of the film with a macro and camera setup. I'm currently trying to decide on how to invert the negatives and Negative Lab Pro is a consideration for me too. I assume that the lab is trying to defend its job. I faced the same some years ago. Since I do not develop color with C41 or E6, I compromise with the lab I work with in asking them C41 dev and a contact sheet of the full roll. I indeed do not understand why the true intended color cannot be reached with a macro and camera set-up. It would easily extrapolate not to reach the right color for normal captures either… Truth is about having the right color temperature of the back light when scanning a C41 neg like Gold, Portra or Pro400H. This requires using the right back panel light tab when using a copy stand (for example, Kaiser is doing good calibrated ones, and that’s why those are more expensive than many others on Amazon or Alibaba). The Valoi Easy35 light is having a potentiometer to set light temp. According to user manual, coolest setting is for B&W negs, warmest setting is for E6 color positives, and a setting in the middle is good for C41 color negs. Light color temperature is the most important to « extract » the best positive color after inversion and is not related to camera and macro lens set-up IMHO. Moreover, each film is having particularities; Kodak Portra is more yellow (warmest) than Fuji Pro400H for example, trying to preserve skin tones as much as possible. So… What means « true color » at the end ? Colors post inversion with Negative Light Pro, after playing with sliders on the setting panel*, are pleasing me. This is the most important to me. My 2 cents 🙃 * do not buy NLP if your expectation is « just » to invert with no further adjustment. Edited June 28, 2024 by Bohns Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted June 28, 2024 Author Share #6 Posted June 28, 2024 (edited) Just now, Bohns said: I assume that the lab is trying to defend its job. I faced the same some years ago. Since I do not develop color with C41 or E6, I compromise with the lab I work with in asking them C41 dev and a contact sheet of the full roll. I indeed do not understand why the true intended color cannot be reached with a macro and camera set-up. It would easily extrapolate not to reach the right color for normal captures either… Truth is about having the right color temperature of the back light when scanning a C41 neg like Gold, Portra or Pro400H. This requires using the right back panel light tab when using a copy stand (for example, Kaiser is doing good calibrated ones, and that’s why those are more expensive than many others on Amazon or Alibaba). The Valoi Easy35 light is having a potentiometer to set light temp. According to user manual, coolest setting is for B&W negs, warmest setting is for E6 color positives, and a setting in the middle is good for C41 color negs. Light color temperature is the most important to « extract » the best positive color after inversion and is not related to camera and macro lens set-up IMHO. Moreover, each film is having particularities; Kodak Portra is more yellow (warmest) than Fuji Pro400H for example, trying to preserve skin tones as much as possible. So… What means « true color » at the end ? My 2 cents 🙃 Thank you Stef. I was also dubious about the 'opinion' the lab gave me and I appreciate your first hand experience and advice. I think I will take a trial version of the software and also play around with inverting the curves myself and see how I get on. Back on topic, I'm tempted to take the dust attachment and calling it a day. Edited June 28, 2024 by costa43 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohns Posted June 28, 2024 Share #7 Posted June 28, 2024 Advertisement (gone after registration) 2 minutes ago, costa43 said: I think I will take a trial version of the software and also play around with inverting the curves myself and see how I get on. 👍 just look at my last edit of my previous answer : do not buy NLP if your expectation is « just » to invert with no further adjustment. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted June 28, 2024 Author Share #8 Posted June 28, 2024 2 hours ago, Bohns said: 👍 just look at my last edit of my previous answer : do not buy NLP if your expectation is « just » to invert with no further adjustment. Noted. Thanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted June 28, 2024 Share #9 Posted June 28, 2024 5 hours ago, costa43 said: Thanks @Bohns that is reassuring and helpful. On a slightly separate note. How are you finding the colours with Negative Lab Pro? I ask as my local lab are adamant that you cannot get the true intended colour of the film with a macro and camera setup. I'm currently trying to decide on how to invert the negatives and Negative Lab Pro is a consideration for me too. Your light source should tell you about its colour temperature, so if you don’t trust auto colour in your camera set it to the same colour temp as your light source. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted June 28, 2024 Author Share #10 Posted June 28, 2024 16 minutes ago, 250swb said: Your light source should tell you about its colour temperature, so if you don’t trust auto colour in your camera set it to the same colour temp as your light source. I was planning on shooting it at 5600 for consistency with daylight film and adjusting from there but if truth be told, I think there will be a fair bit of trial and error over the coming weeks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohns Posted June 28, 2024 Share #11 Posted June 28, 2024 5 hours ago, Bohns said: The Valoi Easy35 light is having a potentiometer to set light temp. According to user manual, coolest setting is for B&W negs, warmest setting is for E6 color positives, and a setting in the middle is good for C41 color negs. Sorry @costa43. My mistake. I mixed color negs with B&W… Rewriting it correctly : The Valoi Easy35 light is having a potentiometer to set light temp. According to user manual, coolest setting is for C41 color negs, warmest setting is for E6 color positives, and a setting in the middle is good for B&W negs. Regards, Stef. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohns Posted June 28, 2024 Share #12 Posted June 28, 2024 1 hour ago, 250swb said: Your light source should tell you about its colour temperature, so if you don’t trust auto colour in your camera set it to the same colour temp as your light source. Not so critical when shooting raw. NLP is indeed recommending to sample the sprocket border to set correctly white balance before conversion. Regards, Stef. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hansvons Posted June 29, 2024 Share #13 Posted June 29, 2024 (edited) On 6/28/2024 at 12:58 PM, costa43 said: scanning with the valoi 35 and my sl2s. I've also just ordered the 70mm Sigma macro. Precisely my setup. It can't get better in quality or quicker in handling. The Sigma 70mm has its sweet spot at f/8, but do your testing. The grain of Tri-X, Delta 100, and other B&W stocks should be extraordinarily sharp from the corner. Modern colour stocks don't show similar grain sharpness due to the emulsion technology, but you'll also get pretty sharp results when focused correctly (I use AF as it does an excellent job). Switching off IBISI when not hand-holding the camera makes sense, too. I crank up the internal LED light to 100% and 6500K. Edited June 29, 2024 by hansvons 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hansvons Posted June 29, 2024 Share #14 Posted June 29, 2024 On 6/28/2024 at 4:34 PM, costa43 said: I ask as my local lab are adamant that you cannot get the true intended colour of the film with a macro and camera setup. I'm currently trying to decide on how to invert the negatives and Negative Lab Pro is a consideration for me too. They are wrong, of course, as their scanner and software have to do everything you do with your camera and editor. Negative Lab Pro is the way to go if you want it to be convenient. If you want to go on foot all the way for the best quality, the best option is Capture One because its Levels tool is uniquely convenient for getting the blacks black, the whites white, and all else in your intended mood with minimal effort. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hansvons Posted June 29, 2024 Share #15 Posted June 29, 2024 (edited) On 6/28/2024 at 11:47 PM, Bohns said: to sample the sprocket border to set correctly white balance before conversion. This only brings your image into a ballpark by helping to tackle the orange mask. As with digital files, film images also need proper WB and BB, which cannot be obtained by sampling the sprocket area. So, it is better to sample a neutral part in this shot. Or, when doing all manually without NGP, use the auto white/ black function in C1's Level tool. Edited June 29, 2024 by hansvons 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted June 30, 2024 Author Share #16 Posted June 30, 2024 7 hours ago, hansvons said: Precisely my setup. It can't get better in quality or quicker in handling. The Sigma 70mm has its sweet spot at f/8, but do your testing. The grain of Tri-X, Delta 100, and other B&W stocks should be extraordinarily sharp from the corner. Modern colour stocks don't show similar grain sharpness due to the emulsion technology, but you'll also get pretty sharp results when focused correctly (I use AF as it does an excellent job). Switching off IBISI when not hand-holding the camera makes sense, too. I crank up the internal LED light to 100% and 6500K. Thank you. Very helpful tips. I’ve ordered the valoi 35 now and it’s en route. I think some experimentation over the coming weeks is a given. Have you experienced any vignetting with your setup? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bohns Posted June 30, 2024 Share #17 Posted June 30, 2024 2 hours ago, costa43 said: Have you experienced any vignetting with your setup? No 🙂 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hansvons Posted June 30, 2024 Share #18 Posted June 30, 2024 4 hours ago, costa43 said: Have you experienced any vignetting with your setup? No. The 70mm Sigma does not vignette at f/8. In film scanning and the editing after that, the original lens' vignetting can be an issue that manifests as underexposed corners, creating muddy shadows with funky colour shifts, mostly to the reddish side. The remedy is to introduce digital vignetting in the editing process or consider the lens' vignetting and expose the negative fatter by one stop. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted July 4, 2024 Author Share #19 Posted July 4, 2024 An update. Having received all the kit, I’ve just scanned a roll and I’m a little disappointed in the Valoi. On images with darker shadows on the periphery, it has evident uneven lighting on the sides. I’ve tried to shoot a calibration frame for flat field correction but lightroom is not identifying it. I’m using a long tube and medium tube extension with the 70mm Sigma with the light set to its highest power output. Has anyone else experienced anything similar? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
costa43 Posted July 4, 2024 Author Share #20 Posted July 4, 2024 4 hours ago, costa43 said: An update. Having received all the kit, I’ve just scanned a roll and I’m a little disappointed in the Valoi. On images with darker shadows on the periphery, it has evident uneven lighting on the sides. I’ve tried to shoot a calibration frame for flat field correction but lightroom is not identifying it. I’m using a long tube and medium tube extension with the 70mm Sigma with the light set to its highest power output. Has anyone else experienced anything similar? Problem solved. I contacted Valoi/Kamerastore and they were very helpful. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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