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Avaible light/ M8


@bumac

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...So my rule of thumb, borne by experience, is to use the lowest ISO possible for a good exposure in the important parts of the image. ...

I'd love to see a Canon 1d3 file exposed at low ISOs "to the left" to compare!

Thank you,

Re rule of thumb:

I was leaning towards this and pleased that I'm not completely off the planet.

I appreciate that ultimately it is the amount of light hitting the sensor that determines the signal to noise ratio and this, to me, means that the exposure/iso setting needs to consider dynamic range required as well as which part of the spectrum is important.

 

With canon it's much simpler: set the appropriate ISO and expose by the meter.

 

Re Canon: I only have the 1d2. I have found it can extract quite a lot of highlight detail if required but in the shadows there is precious little more to be had.

I expect that with the higher noise inherent in cmos technology canon have, to achieve the good dynamic range they do have, used on chip noise compensating circuitry to extract all information that is available at the low end.

 

I have an early comparison between M8 and 1d2 which told me that, in extreme lighting, in terms of both noise and dynamic range the M8 is superior, I have deleted them from my HD but they should be on a dvd backup. Will post if i find.

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{snipped}

With canon it's much simpler: set the appropriate ISO and expose by the meter.

 

Re Canon: I only have the 1d2. I have found it can extract quite a lot of highlight detail if required but in the shadows there is precious little more to be had.

I expect that with the higher noise inherent in cmos technology canon have, to achieve the good dynamic range they do have, used on chip noise compensating circuitry to extract all information that is available at the low end.

 

I have an early comparison between M8 and 1d2 which told me that, in extreme lighting, in terms of both noise and dynamic range the M8 is superior, I have deleted them from my HD but they should be on a dvd backup. Will post if i find.

 

Hi Orjan,

 

You're absolutely right--you need to consider DR and ISO.

 

With Canon it's a bit simpler to me. But still similar.... don't underexpose an ISO 1600 file on a 5d or 1d2. It will look terrible, and it's the same reason: the sensor is light-starved. But you can't push low ISO images so much.

 

I had a 1d2 and a 1ds2, and the M8's got more stuff in bad conditions (and way more shadow detail at low ISOs).

 

I mentioned the 1d3 because it now has two or three stops better noise and--probably not unrelated--a 14 bit AD converter.

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James when you are exposing to the "right" are you adjusting the E/V and if so by how much? And are you using any noise reduction software?

 

Thanks!

Calvin

 

Calvin,

 

I shoot mostly manual exposure, but you need to get a feel for the meter because I find the M8's really very good and more like a spot meter.

 

So I'm always adjusting the exposure but not the auto compensation, no.

 

I do use NR software (noise ninja) if I have to, but there's no NR on the shots I've recently posted.

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Wow! LOVE all those available light images. That's what makes those lenses shine better than anything I've worked with. Here's my version too--all shot with the 50lux at 1.4. Sorry about the copyright but I can get in trouble putting those images up without the ©.attachment.php?attachmentid=60908&stc=1&d=1194688370

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1/ The view from the British Council in Paris ... 28 cron Asph / ISO 320, hand held at 1/20th.

2/ workshop participant, 75 lux, hand held ISO 320 @ 1/90th

 

The M8 does the job.

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This was shot with 35 Summilux asph at 640 wide open, 1/60th.

 

But it was underexposed by at least three-four stops (there was no light at all on them) so really had no choice but to convert to b&w. this is where this camera really excels. I've also found that when "pushing" one has to lower saturation in LR when bringing back to normal - this will help decrease the noise as well.

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Noctilux and a Labtop

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What a lovely image ... It makes such a difference when you get the exposure right... and try doing this with Provia (100, 400 or 1600!!)

 

Oh well - why not another one.... 28 cron Asph fully open, 1/3rd second at 1250... Laptop light + a small table lamp. Friends at home. I think one of the things about the M8 is that you really have to LEARN how to use it. Jump straight in with your DSLR mindset and things don't quite work out. Get to know it and it's such a lovely tool.

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Seville, Noctilux:

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Madrid, Summilux 35mm ASPH:

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M8, 35mm Summicron, 1/60, ISO 1250

 

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Shot on Halloween. M8 50 Lux ASPH ISO 1250 1/350 f/1.4

A little WB/Tint adjust, a little of this and that and some Neat Image.

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Noctilux... ISO 640.

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Another shot by the light of a PDA. 50 mm lux at 2400.

 

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... just got in from Paris at the new St Pancras terminal for the Eurostar train. Both shots handheld in available light. 21 mm pre-Asph Cron. NB - no additional Corner Fix... the firmware does a pretty good job on vignetting.

 

Shot 1: f2.8 1/60th / ISO 640

Shot 2: f2.8 1/45th / ISO 640

 

I'm finding that I'm not bothering with an external finder on the 21 ... framing seems to work pretty well using the maximum in the M8 viewfinder...

 

BTW . The station is a splendid place, and it's so nice to be able to go city centre to city centre in 2.25 hours. As our London flat is just across the road from the station, I'm nearer to Paris than I am to Manchester.

 

I quite like that...

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