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Avaible light/ M8


@bumac

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Noctilux @ f/1.2, ISO 640

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Not sure whether this counts but the light from the firework was "available":). M8 @1250.

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ISO 640 Elmarit-M 28 f2.8 ASPH

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One shot on the bus, another in a theater (640, 75 cv lens, probably 1/30).

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I just got my M8 yesterday, here is one of the 1st shots! Our local bar keep, CV 50/1.5, iso 160, available light

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Taken a while ago with the 75 Cron f/2.

 

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Nice timing. The expression makes the photo.

 

I noticed the banding on the back of the lady's head in the lower right. I also get that at high ISOs and low shutter speeds...

 

Available darkness at f1.0, 1/45 and ISO 1250

 

[ATTACH]60310[/ATTACH]

 

More similar in my Zenfolio Party in South Beach gallery.

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M8 + Noctilux... Seville, November 2007.

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Sorry I couldnt figure out how to get the forum software to include the pictures posted above. But the banding in the curtains in in the shot by cme4brain. And the other one that shows banding in the out of focus back of the lady's head in the bottom right hand of the frame in the black and white picture of the man with a funny expression with the two ladies(?) in the background.

Just so you guys understand, I think both photos are good available light candids - my point is not to critic. It's just that so many of my shots like these also have banding. So it's taking away a bit of the fun I used to have with my film Leicas and available light...

It happens at high ISOs with slower shutter speeds. I think it has something to do with the noise reduction since the in-camera previews only show it 1-2 seconds after you scroll to the fame and something kicks in and the image changes ever so slightly -- hot pixels dissappear but banding comes in...

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My experience: Banding is normal if lightmetering is not exactly done. If you push a foto which has more the 640 ASA you can not prevent banding. 640 still has possibility for tolerance in both directions, under- and over-exposure. 1250 and 2500 not.

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My experience: Banding is normal if lightmetering is not exactly done. If you push a foto which has more the 640 ASA you can not prevent banding. 640 still has possibility for tolerance in both directions, under- and over-exposure. 1250 and 2500 not.

 

This is exactly right--the M8 system DR at 640 is far superior to 1250 and 1250 is even better than 2500.

 

But if you expose "to the right" with ISO 1250 // 2500, and the DR of the scene is not too great, you will get smooth results with little colour noise or banding.

 

Here's a Nocti shot at f1.0 @ 1/500 @ ISO 1250; I was shooting for the glasses and to hold the highlights there. Notice how the TV and backlight is blown, but there's barely enough for the bartender's face.

 

That's ok--had this been a picture of the bartender--and not the glasses (I didn't say it was a great shot) there would have been plenty of light for that too--but other things would have blown out.

 

IOW, noise and junk at high ISO with the M8 is the result of starving the sensor for light. If there's enough light for the subject (which doesn't equate to "the scene" always) then the M8 is fine.

 

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Jamie,

If the lighter parts of the image are important ones and the shadow detail is unimportant, is it not better to set a lower ISO and underexpose?

This would reduce the compression of the highlights when saved to the 8-bit dng and possibly also limit the noise part of the signal read from the sensor?

My experiments indicate that this gives less noise in the middle levels at the cost of loss of shadow detail.

Example (test) enclosed ISO1250 (2919) and ISO160 (2921) with same exposure

100% crop

Exposure and blackpoint sliders set differently in lightroom

It is of course not a good example of 'available light photography' and I would be interested to know if you have made this type of comparison in a 'real' situation.

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Orjan,

 

It's all about getting enough light to the sensor and getting a viable shutter speed. Your comparison is correct, too--it's often better to push a lower ISO a stop than underexpose a higher ISO shot.

 

And that makes the M8 is a weird animal in that the lower ISOs, unhampered by noise, are extremely malleable in pushing in post.

 

Normally, "exposing to the right" without blowing highlights is the right recipe.

 

But lower ISOs are not altogther good enough when the range is outside a 2 or 3 stop post process. Not much stuff is, but some stuff is :)

 

You also get more information, regardless of compression or ISO, on the sensor with better ("to the right") exposure. But if you need to hold highlights *and* preserve shadows, this is a problem at the higher ISOs, because IMO you lose a stop or so at 1250 or above due to noise.

 

So my rule of thumb, borne by experience, is to use the lowest ISO possible for a good exposure in the important parts of the image.

 

Well, Duh. That sounds easy to do :) But the key is in very low available light, you need to up the ISO to maintain light levels at the sensor.

 

For example, in the shot above, it's true I could have taken that at 320 and pushed, although the character of the shot would be different--I was just trying to show folks there doesn't have to be a lot of noise in higher ISO stuff.

 

In the Noctilux thread, though, that's kicking around there's a shot there at 1/16s @ f1.0 at ISO 1250, and it's pushed "to the right" and brought back in post.

 

I wanted f1.0 for the look; underexposing to ISO 640 might have worked, going further to 320 and I would have been pushing it for highlight detail.

 

The M8 and the DMR are very flexible in this way. I don't know if it's the greater bit depth at the AD converter or not; I'd love to see a Canon 1d3 file exposed at low ISOs "to the left" to compare!

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