gylee Posted October 28, 2007 Share #1 Posted October 28, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Well I have had it (a Coolscan V) more than a month and finally unpacked it yesterday, downloaded Vuescan and got to experimenting. What a frustrating experience! I have finally managed to get an output I like from 400CN and from Fuji Provia 400F. Ilford Delta 100 is nowhere (keeps blowing the highlights) and Fuji 160S is frankly terrible - muddy, grainy with awful colours. Talk about your steep learning curve. Anyhow samples from the 400CN and the Provia attached. If I can get something even half way decent I will post the Delta and the 160S and perhaps someone can say what I am doing wrong. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/36750-finally-unpacked-the-scanner/?do=findComment&comment=387488'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 28, 2007 Posted October 28, 2007 Hi gylee, Take a look here Finally unpacked the scanner... . I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
stunsworth Posted October 28, 2007 Share #2 Posted October 28, 2007 Hi Gordon, try setting the black and white points on Vuescan to something line .1%. That'll give you flat looking scans that will prevent the highlights from being blown and can be manipulated easily in Photoshop. Play around with the various b&w films until you find one you line. I used to use TMax 100. Set the exposure to ignore the outer 20% or so of the image. That'll prevent the exposure being influenced by any clear border on the negative. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
milsu Posted October 30, 2007 Share #3 Posted October 30, 2007 Make sure You have disabled "Digital ROC" and "Digital GEM", if that options are available in "Vuescan". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spylaw4 Posted October 30, 2007 Share #4 Posted October 30, 2007 Hmm - you've been to Berlin too! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
biglouis Posted October 31, 2007 Share #5 Posted October 31, 2007 Gordon I too have found Vuescan a bit frustrating and in fact in another thread posted my difficulties trying to scan Velvia with it. I am using a Plustek 7200i, btw. One problem with Vuescan is that it seems to remember your settings when you'd actually like it to start-over again. The only way I have found to reset everything is to tick the default option in the Colour tab. I sorta expected that each time I scanned a frame it would try to optimise the result, a bit like opening a digital image in Lightroom or CS2 and selecting 'auto'. Instead you just get ghastly results and sometimes I have to fiddle with the settings quite a lot just to get a decent result. If it helps, so far, I've had the best success with plain old Fujicolour 100 print film and not so plain Kodak Portra 160VC. LouisB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
semrich Posted October 31, 2007 Share #6 Posted October 31, 2007 A very interesting and timely thread, I am now scanning some night shots from this weekend that I developed myself and while the negative looked OK I was getting really bad results from my demo version of SilverFast so I went back to my Vuescan. The results were better but I was getting blown highlights. There is not a lot of infomation in Vuescan help so I just usually play around with the settings and I discovered the white point was way off, and then afterward read about it here. Setting it way down saved the day, the shots I thought were no good are really OK. Steve - you mention: "Set the exposure to ignore the outer 20% or so of the image. That'll prevent the exposure being influenced by any clear border on the negative." It sounds like a good idea, how do you do that? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted October 31, 2007 Share #7 Posted October 31, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) With everything set to the defaults save the settings and call it something like 'Default'. Next time you need to revert to the defaults just load this setting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 31, 2007 Share #8 Posted October 31, 2007 Have any of you guys noticed a trade off point between noise and scan resolution? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted October 31, 2007 Share #9 Posted October 31, 2007 Steve - you mention: "Set the exposure to ignore the outer 20% or so of the image. That'll prevent the exposure being influenced by any clear border on the negative." It sounds like a good idea, how do you do that? I think you just set the crop to be just the picture part of the negative. Don't set it to take the maximum scan area - just adjust the crop box. Once you do it, you rarely have to make large adjustments to the selection, just little tweaks left and right depending on where the edge of the frame is. I've had a lot of success scanning B&W - the key is setting the clipping points to 0.1% as mentioned above. For color though, NikonScan has given me better results quicker, though in part due to ICE. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
semrich Posted October 31, 2007 Share #10 Posted October 31, 2007 tgray - Thanks, I'm still doing some scanning and now I'm getting better results to the point where I just use curves with the eye dropper in CS3, clean any dust sharpen and I'm done. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted October 31, 2007 Share #11 Posted October 31, 2007 Steve - you mention: "Set the exposure to ignore the outer 20% or so of the image. That'll prevent the exposure being influenced by any clear border on the negative." It sounds like a good idea, how do you do that? Sorry, I missed the question. It's the 'Buffer' setting in the crop tab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
semrich Posted November 1, 2007 Share #12 Posted November 1, 2007 Steve - Thanks I'll give it a try, already getting better results regarding white point setting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent10D Posted November 1, 2007 Share #13 Posted November 1, 2007 Juat a note of thanks for this thread. I had acquired VueScan a few weeks ago, but basically due to unfamiliarity had been hobbling along with the Nikon Scan software that came with my (relatively new) Coolscan 5000 ED. But armed with the suggestions provided here I gave VueScan a serious run-through and what a breath of fresh air! What a difference an interface makes! It's faster too, and ... can anyone confirm this? ... the focus actually seems to be a bit more accurate with VueScan(?). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted November 2, 2007 Share #14 Posted November 2, 2007 Another thing with Vuescan is that you can set the focus point manually - certainly on my Coolscan V, can't do it on a flatbed - that can be useful of the film isn't flat and you're looking for a compromise focus position. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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