philipotto Posted October 14, 2007 Share #1 Posted October 14, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I shot half a roll of Tri-X at 100 (forgot to set the iso dial). Is this salvageable? Is there anything special I should tell the lab? Should I finish the roll off at 100, or switch to 400? Thanks! Philip Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 14, 2007 Posted October 14, 2007 Hi philipotto, Take a look here Tri-X 400 exposed at 100. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Mark Antony Posted October 14, 2007 Share #2 Posted October 14, 2007 just finish the roll, they'll be a little overexposed but nothing the film can't handle. If you were developing yourself you could either use a speed reducing developer (like Ilford Perceptol) or Rodinal at 1:50 for compensating effect reducing the time slightly. I think they'll turn out OK. Don't worry- be happy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron110n Posted October 14, 2007 Share #3 Posted October 14, 2007 Hey Phil, Yes Mark is right and finish the roll at 100 ISO. Developing will be: Kodak Tri-X 400 pull down to 100 ISO Xtol 1:2, 8.75 min 20C Xtol 1:3, 10.75 min 20C If you don't develop your own, send it to Samy's Camera at 3rd. Street... you know where it's at. Give the the pull-down info. I believe they send it to A&I Labs in Pasadena who do Xtol processing. You'll be ok if you metered internaly on your M6 though your result will be tack sharp minimum grain ISO 100. Best, -Ron ________________ Caveman's Gallery Neolithic Artistry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 15, 2007 Share #4 Posted October 15, 2007 Is there anything special I should tell the lab? Kind of begs the question...how come you dont develop your own? Is it that the lab scans for you? You only shoot the occasional roll and the price doesnt stack up if you had to gear up? While it shouldnt be too much of a test for the film, if the lab is not going to adjust their processing you could fire off the remainder of the roll at correct ISO. Call your lab. And to paraphrase the famous.."Dont worry...be happy:) :D" Black and white is so forgiving some of the absent minded dunk their spools in their coffee instead of the developer and still save it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dspeltz Posted October 15, 2007 Share #5 Posted October 15, 2007 You will get great shadow detail! anyhow, I use Tri-x at 200. 400 is too thin in shadows for me. Maybe I should try 100. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 15, 2007 Share #6 Posted October 15, 2007 You will get great shadow detail! anyhow, I use Tri-x at 200. 400 is too thin in shadows for me. Maybe I should try 100. Then I think you're doing something wrong. Tri-X 400 should be in optimum preformance between E.I. 200 - E.I. 400 depending on type developer and light contrast situation. However an E.I. of 100 for Tri-X (400) can be corrected by choosing an ultra fine grain developer which will already cause effective speed loss of at least 1 F stop. Perceptol, Microdol-X, CG512 are the suitable developers and way to go. Rodinal 1+50 or 1+100 should be a second choice in this situation. And yes, finish the roll with iso 100, or make a marker on the film surface by a sticker you put on the film surface via the lens opening and shutter on B with a lock. When DIY film development you can feel the marker and cut the film overthere to split it up in a second reel for different development. This is also the way for a multiple iso shoot on one film without reloading a.s.o. Because a Leica M has no mirror it's very simple with these kind of range finders. (Zeiss ZM, Cosina Voigtländer (Bessa R) the same of course.) Best regards, Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 15, 2007 Share #7 Posted October 15, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) make a marker on the film surface by a sticker you put on the film surface via the lens opening Thanks. Good trick. Never thought of it. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dspeltz Posted October 16, 2007 Share #8 Posted October 16, 2007 Then I think you're doing something wrong. Tri-X 400 should be in optimum preformance between E.I. 200 - E.I. 400 depending on type developer and light contrast situation. However an E.I. of 100 for Tri-X (400) can be corrected by choosing an ultra fine grain developer which will already cause effective speed loss of at least 1 F stop. Perceptol, Microdol-X, CG512 are the suitable developers and way to go. Rodinal 1+50 or 1+100 should be a second choice in this situation. And yes, finish the roll with iso 100, or make a marker on the film surface by a sticker you put on the film surface via the lens opening and shutter on B with a lock. When DIY film development you can feel the marker and cut the film overthere to split it up in a second reel for different development. This is also the way for a multiple iso shoot on one film without reloading a.s.o. Because a Leica M has no mirror it's very simple with these kind of range finders. (Zeiss ZM, Cosina Voigtländer (Bessa R) the same of course.) Best regards, Robert Not sure what you mean I am doing something wrong. I have used Tri-X at 200 in HC110B for 30 years which gives me a zone 1 that is .1 in density above film base. Nice shadow detail in this approach. At 400 I dont care for the results. I suppose if I want to fiddle with different developers but I do like HC110B. D76 gives more or less the same results. I was being facetious about 100. too subtle I guess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted October 16, 2007 Share #9 Posted October 16, 2007 So how does APX400 work for you, either in Rod or D76? Trix has always been highlights or shadow for me but cant have both. On topic something I find is pull and process might work great through the enlarger, I have never been able to get it to scan all that well. I cant really see the point with 400 unless it is jsut a case that is all you have in the bag...I would rather send 100 out to 200. Exposing 100 at less than 100 has always been just too much for my 5400ii Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 16, 2007 Share #10 Posted October 16, 2007 Scanning too dense negatives is a problem. Depending on what you're going to do after development: C.I. around 0,50-0,52: for scanning C.I. 0,52-0,55 : Enlarger with condensor C.I. 0,55-0,62 : Enlarger with diffuser+condensor C.I. 0,62-0,65 : Enlarger with diffuser About APX 400 (new) / Rollei Retro 400 I can give you a link where all combinations you're asking for are tested with the logD curves, Rodinal, D76, AM74/RHS, CG512/RLS: http://www.mahn.net/DL_MAHN/CSRollei.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Antony Posted October 17, 2007 Share #11 Posted October 17, 2007 Rob, its like Robert (fotohuis) says if your neg is too dense (overexposed) it will be hard to scan. You need to adjust for lower contrast by diluting the developer (I like Rodinal for this) or reducing agitation, or dev time. My modus is if there is a lot of contrast in a subject I meter for the shadow, where I want he first perceptible detail to show, then close down 2 stops. This can sometimes blow the highlights if the range is extreme (backlit subjects) so knowing this I'll prepare my Rodinal at 1:100 (most films time is 16-20 min) then give minimal agitation (continuos first min then 1 inversion per each subsequent min) This is Neopan 400 in Rodinal with the above workflow. Of course if you really want to hang on to those highlights just develop in coffee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 17, 2007 Share #12 Posted October 17, 2007 Talking about coffee developers (cafenol = decafé + soda) , what is you practical experience with these low contrast developer possibility? I normally prefer low contrast document developers due to the fact some anti-fog ingredients are missing in coffee. Further I would like to drink the last one instead of mis-use in a developer ingredient Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Antony Posted October 17, 2007 Share #13 Posted October 17, 2007 Robert At the moment the only experience of coffee as a developer is with APX 100 which is hardly a high contrast Tech pan type film. I'm going to try Adox Pan 25 (not CHS 25) this coming week, and will probably put both rolls though Rodinal 1:50. I think the new Adox Pan emulsion (along with the Rollei TP) would be good candidates for coffee developer and when my schedule allows I'll give it a try. I think rating at 12 ISO and developing for 30 mins would be the start point. Its time I need, I'll do it just find a way to cut back my sleep, work and family commitments and shoot more film! P.S Robert do you know who makes the Adox Pan? Is it Wolfen or Mortsel? or even Zagreb? They (Adox) seem to say its a new emulsion, but I'm wondering how many different 25ISO films there really are, or if some are re- brands. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 17, 2007 Share #14 Posted October 17, 2007 Adox is just a brand name, just like Rollei or Agfa Photo from now on. LUPUS can put in fact every film into an Agfa Photo box. Adox/Impex can put every film into their box. Rollei/Maco the same. Efke 25-50-100 is Adox CHS 25-50-100 Spur Orthopan UR is Adox CMS 20 (Orthochromatic micro film) Rollei ATP-V1 Technical Pan = Gigabit new, Panchromatic iso 32 T.P. film, not a micro film. Efke is made by Fotokemika Croatia The micro films and I think the ATP-V1 is made by Gevaert in Belgium. They have all that kind of technology. Further Adox had some Ilford products (CHM125 - CHM400 ; FP4/HP5) but all the OEM business with original Ilford brand stuff is completely finished. All old stock or the end of an OEM contract. We are just going to test Rollei ATP-V1 in a high Rodinal dilution. http://www.fotohuisrovo.nl/documentatie/ATP-V1.pdf I think the new Rollei ATP developer has been made by Heribert Schain from SPUR. He also made the developer for the Orthopan UR and the variant for Adox: Adotech. Rollei Low Contrast is a document developer designed by Udo Raffay. This type is already a long time on the European market. Works rather good on ATP-V1 E.I. 20-25. He also made R.L.S./CG512, an ultra fine reference developer on 24 degrees C. IMO even better than Perceptol, but yes 24 degrees C. is not always easy for everybody Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Antony Posted October 17, 2007 Share #15 Posted October 17, 2007 Robert I have a great PDF from Eric Janssens of Agfa, where he explains some of their new tech, like combining one atom of gold to every 4 atoms of silver to make a more stable nucleus, stopping the silver atoms from 'roaming' giving higher line sharpness. interesting stuff, not sure how I came across it but its interesting how a lot of their technology is used to make PCB's I'd just love it if AgX emulsions were used in the making of circuit boards in Digicams:D Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.Morrison Posted October 17, 2007 Share #16 Posted October 17, 2007 I tend to agree with David Speltz (did I spell Speltz right?). I've always regarded Tri-X as really 200 ISO and exposed and develped for that speed. Tri-X is an old technology film with considerable latitude. You might want to pull-process a little but no harm will be done if you don't. Yours, R. Morrison, M4-P, etc. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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